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04-29-2008, 06:39 PM #1
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White- 99Trans am
Any body know the jets to a 75 shot nx shark
i installed a cam in my 99 ta 224/224 545/545 in/ex 114lsa and wanted to start of small any help will be appriciated.
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05-01-2008, 09:28 AM #2Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
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05-01-2008, 04:32 PM #3
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White- 99Trans am
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05-16-2008, 12:39 PM #4
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If you don't have the car tuned don't use ar autolites. the metal used is great but had a higher melting point than your motor. get the tune right on ngk's then get the autolites.......I read a post on tech the other day that said a guy said he was melting ngk's what autolite plug should he use.LOL tune it right!!!
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05-16-2008, 01:29 PM #5
Sorry but the correct tune with a hot NGK isn't going to be the same tune with a race plug such as the AR AutoLite. Two complete different plugs The AR's design actually lowers combustion chamber temps. That is why most can add timing when going to real race plug from the Autozone NGK.
So your aluminum head has a higher melting point than the steel plug.........
And tuning it with one plugs heat range then swapping to a colder race style plug isn't tuning it "right".
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05-17-2008, 07:02 AM #6
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Sorry again but i thought we were talking the correct heat range. WIth the correct range in the car the auto light will melt way higher than the NGK. And you will melt a piston before a rich tune auto light. DO some more reading .....
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=26
BTW you should always use the correct heat range . basing an argument on compairing a ngk tr6to an ar in the 9 range would be retarded!
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05-17-2008, 07:56 AM #7
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05-17-2008, 08:40 AM #8
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White- 99Trans am
well i tuned it with 75shot and know i am runnig a 125shot my tune is on the money my ? is will the autulite last longer and better performance or just safer?
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05-17-2008, 08:51 AM #9
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05-17-2008, 02:19 PM #10
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White- 99Trans am
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05-17-2008, 02:33 PM #11
No problem. You can usually get your local Napa to get them. They should not be more than $3.15ea. Don't forget to put a dab of anti-seize on the threads. It only takes a tiny bit.
Also you will need a regular set of feeler gauges to set the gap on the plugs. They have a cut back ground electrode so you need to put the feeler gauge at a 45* angle to set it.
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05-18-2008, 05:17 PM #12
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ITs not safer at all. if the tune is off your going to melt the piston.
IF you want a good safe plug that will drive good on the motor and also will melt or sho signs of heat before the pistons look at the iridiums. I ran the ik and it 's 31's and 33's to cold for most stuff but they have other stuff.
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05-18-2008, 07:35 PM #13
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05-19-2008, 11:49 AM #14
Mmmk dude. If your tune is so fawked that you can melt the pistons, your plugs wont save your motor either way.
Tuning issues and spark plug selection are two COMPLETELY different subjects. I ran TR6s before, then went to AR94s and I can confirm that I'm able to run 2-3* more timing as a result without KR...
Just my $.02
-Eagle| '02 WS6 M6 | KOOKS/ORY | LC-1 | LOU'S SS | UMI SFCs | BMN LCAs & RELOC's | Hotchkis STB | HSW 150 shot | Lid | 42# Lucas | HPTuner Pro |
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05-19-2008, 08:06 PM #15
subscribing as we have an 8 second guy (shiznity) talking about plugs.
Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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05-19-2008, 09:29 PM #16
Good thing we use the plugs to tune our cars!
Is it 1994 or 2008?
Anyways for those that have been reading all this stuff posted about how your motors are going to blow or should I say "melt down" due to running AutoLite race plugs weather they are AR94's or AR93's is non sense.
I run them in EVERY LS powered car I work on even if I didn't do the install of the kit. I ran the AR93 plugs in my GTO and it ran just fine on the motor for over a year. Even the factory coils on our cars are very healthy on power so fouling plugs is NO issue.
And I will also tell you 90% of my cars blow 150 or more and as I have stated MANY times I haven't melted shit. If you are nipping plugs which is slang term for melting the ground electrode you are way lean. Yes AutoLites will have a higher melting point....... Look at the freaking pictures I posted. It is way thicker metal and it has a nickle plating on it for the extreme cylinder pressure's it's designed for.
I hope this clears up some of the confusion for those that have been reading some shit.
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05-20-2008, 09:23 AM #17
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No . again i guess youv never had a 350 shot on with pump gas. youd be surpirsed how little off the tune has to be to melt stuff. LOL
If your using KR for your tune youre retarded. you will hurt somethign well before knock retard can "save you" .LOL
We are talking plugs in the same heat range. OF corse if your choises are tr-6 and a AR 91 and you have a big shot then yas the 91 is better .but if your talking AR 91 and ngk 10 than you should probably start with a 10 and once the tune is on go to the AR and adjust from there.
But hey what the F do i know....
You got an 8 second ls1? on 94 octain? @ 3650 lbs?
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05-20-2008, 09:25 AM #18
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CLOWN SHOES for the last time im not talking about 200 shot cars here. you probably will not melt a car on a 150 shot you will wear out the rings from being to rich....
But i figured id let guys know the auto light is a better plug and metal but if your looking at a 300+ shot my sugestion is start on an ngk incase your not Jeff PROC and miss on the tune for a pass or 2!!!
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05-20-2008, 09:27 AM #19
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05-20-2008, 09:37 AM #20
OP'er asked about plugs for a 75 shot, not 350. I was giving advise based on that.
No, I don't only tune based on KR... several other things come into play (as you must well know) such as injector duty, wideband data (yes I have one...), fuel pressure, etc etc...
I don't have the balls for 350HP N2O, let alone the funds to support such a habit. I'm on a stock block, running a 150 shot as safe as I know how.
In your experience, can the ground strap act as a "fuse" of sorts for preventing damage? I'm guessing if the ground strap were to melt mid run, that cylinder is going to fatten up as it won't be getting sufficient spark to get a good burn... so I'm thinking that might be safer?
I guess I was just concerned when I read stuff like this:
Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
Thx for your 411... always looking for new info.
-Eagle
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