150 Wet Shot
This is a discussion on 150 Wet Shot within the Nitrous forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; well if thats the case...maybe i shouldnt go N20 i just got this motor in 2 weeks ago becuase i ...
06-22-2011, 12:44 PM #41
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
06-22-2011, 03:13 PM #42
Well I have been playing with Nitrous now since 91 when we made our own plates out of a 1" carb spaced with 2 fogger nozzle's & I have NEVER BLOWN A MOTOR YET. I take that back we took a slant six MOPAR Dart & blew it up Purposely after 4 bottles with a -4 hose WIDE OPEN into the 1 barrel carb. It ended up freezing the carb after 2 & we had to allow it to thaw back out.
Anyways I have done a Lot of crazy shit on rental cars too. I Would NEVER let 1 of my customers think if they Didn't have enough $ for a back up motor to NOT install a kit.
That's CRAZY to ME.
I think for 1 you get what you pay for. 2 with the correct A/F & stock timing not much if any timing needs to be pulled. Now Don't get that confused! All these people with Billy Bobs tune THAT IS A WHOLE DIFFERENT STORY. The whole timing map has been molested & God knows he bumped the timing up. 3 I Always replace the OE stock pump with a Quality 255 pump. UNLESS IT'S A RENTAL! IT GETS A FOGGER & -4 THROUGH THE DOOR JAM TO THE CO PILOT OPENING & CLOSING THE BOTTLE GABLE.
The ONLY time a discussion even comes up about a motor breaking is when we do 300+ on a single stage.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
06-22-2011, 07:24 PM #43
Not trying to battle anyone, I've had many friends break rears, blow motors, etc... when adding any power adder. It's sad to see my buddy's car down for 6-8 months while they are saving for a new motor, part, etc. As a result, I tell everyone that you have to pay to play and that I wouldn't consider racing if i couldn't replace what breaks. That's sound advice. Then again, I'm not a patient man. I have to have my junk running asap or I don't sleep well. So, let me rephrase it. Any power adder can cause engine damage, Nitrous is the most inconsistent. If you are adding nitrous, consider whether this is your daily driver, what you would do if something happened, etc. I wish you the best. LS1's can take a lot of abuse as I detailed in my previous post.
06-22-2011, 07:57 PM #44
The Best thing that HELPS most All parts on these younger kids street cars is the FACT they will NEVER hook up. It keeps Most all things from breaking in most of My experience over the years. From the diff to the granny..... If its just blowing the tires off the parts don't realize they aren't actually feeling all that stress.
I'm Not trying to battle anyone either. Just sharing my opinion since I see it all the time as this is what I do to make a living.
Here is a CLEAR picture of the VAST difference between a True race plug & the normal.
The 1 on the left is a AR94 Autolite. MINOR Things like this are the Key between spark & detonation. A regular plug is NOT designed to hold up to Extreme cylinder pressures & heat. Minor Hot spots on plugs can cause Pre ignition which equals to detonation.
Last edited by LS2Tuner; 06-22-2011 at 08:00 PM.
06-22-2011, 07:59 PM #45
What's the point of having a 150 shot if you aren't hooking up? I don't see any.
06-22-2011, 08:15 PM #46
06-22-2011, 08:18 PM #47
Oh I agree with you 100%, but I think on the same note, you probably agree with me too
06-22-2011, 08:26 PM #48
Hell I got cars that Barely break into the 12's but pick the 1 tire up they hook so hard. People get Really pissed when they get beat by a Damn near stock Fox with 150,000 miles on it.
I Always try to get them (my customers) to make the car dead hook or come close to it before we do major power mode. I was done doing burnouts when I was 15 in GN's.
06-22-2011, 08:36 PM #49
Yeah if your set-up is right (suspension), it doesn't take much torque at all to lift a wheel up. A stock powered LS1 can do it with the right set-up and weight transfer.
Being he's on stock suspension and stock tires though, there won't be any "dead-hooking" going on.
Basham, good luck whatever you decide buddy
06-23-2011, 05:05 AM #50
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
Yeah. Ive been running in circles trying to decide what i want.
But 98% of the time...i start races at 35 to...hell 70mph. At that point, my car doesnt loose that much traction unless i drop The clutch to a much lower gear.
06-23-2011, 06:13 AM #51
You are talking about your current 300rwhp versus about 410-420rwhp...BIG difference.
06-30-2011, 03:07 PM #52
Are v6s springs proven to help traction on the street or reduce '60ft?
06-30-2011, 03:40 PM #53
06-30-2011, 04:02 PM #54
You won't need to worry about hooking unless you spray outta the hole anyways.04 C5 A4 Torch Red
2009 CTS4 Ice Black
2013 1500 Silverado Z71
02 Z/28 M6 Onyx Black All Options - Sold
06-30-2011, 04:35 PM #55
I don't know what you drive but if I give her hell, there are black marks for 50 ft. I need to install this tq arm. Figure out pinion angle and adjust the lcas down to the lowest notch. I will add v6 springs if they help.
06-30-2011, 05:05 PM #56
NO shit!! I spin the tires with STOCK motors with Just my tune & some drag radials. On the pinion angle do yourself a favor & measure it. Make sure it's Not more than 3.75 or you will be killing u-joints quick. You Can get away with as much as 4.5 for a lil bit IF Needed to take some punks money real quick. I have figured that about 3.5 is about the best. It will Aid vastly too to loosen your end links on the swaybar. It will Add a couple inches of front end travel.
06-30-2011, 05:44 PM #57
I took the sway bar off two years ago.
I want this thing to HOOK on the street.
06-30-2011, 07:14 PM #58
I'm putting 500rwhp to the ground in a M6 and my car dead hooks with Nitto 555r DR's from a 4K stomp in 1st gear shifting at 6300RPM. NO CHIRP when shifting...it hooks hard.
Pinion angle = -2.
Rest of mods in sig.
It's all about suspension.It's stock.
06-30-2011, 07:41 PM #59
@LS2-Where are you located at?
06-30-2011, 08:29 PM #60
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