http://www.ls1.com/forums/ LSx, LS1, LS2 LS7 Performance Information en Fri, 30 Jul 2010 00:13:05 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.ls1.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.ls1.com/forums/ http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141820&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 23:33:32 GMT HELP! My 2000 Z-28 just died while I was at a red light. I will not idle or start unless I give it gas. When it is running its rough and as soon as I take my foot off the gas it dies. Any Ideas? Thanks! HELP! My 2000 Z-28 just died while I was at a red light. I will not idle or start unless I give it gas. When it is running its rough and as soon as I take my foot off the gas it dies. Any Ideas? Thanks! ]]> General Help tomzz28 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141820 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141819&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 23:30:04 GMT Hello to all. New member from Tampa Florida. Hello to all. New member from Tampa Florida. ]]> New Member Introductions tomzz28 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141819 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141818&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 23:07:37 GMT Hey you'all.. I just got a cam a while back and they re-tuned etc. Can they get the car to idle consistently after a cam swap? At first it wa idling at 550 rpm which was good as it gave you a real good sound from the cam, but upon initial starting in the morning it was very cold blooded as they used to say about a carbed engine. After it warmed up it was fine, I sent it back to the tune guy and now when you start it the car runs at about 1000rpm sort and has a surge between 1000 and 800 rpm or so, then it settles down to a 750rpm idle, just sort of weird.. Never was that eratic before the cam. Cam is a 575 lift, 240 duration etc, nothing real radical. Any ideas? ]]> External Engine allpontiac http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141818 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141816&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 22:38:32 GMT Hi, I recently purchased a 2001 Firebird with a 3.8 and am in need of some advice. I have owned an 83 Firebird and 95 Formula but haven't owned any kind of sports car in almost ten years. My issue is that when I purchased the car it made a tapping or ticking noise that wasn't to loud until after a few weeks. Then it became loud enough that I was embarassed to drive it anywhere. When I got it home I changed the oil using four quarts of Mobil 1 10w30 fully synthetic oil and one quart of synethic Lucas oil additive and a K&N filter. For about two weeks the tapping went away and then suddenly a few days ago I cranked the car and I noticed the tapping noise again. At first it was fairly quiet and went away after a few seconds. However, after each day it progressively gets louder and doesn't go away until I have driven it a few miles and if I happen to turn it off for just ten minutes then the noise is back again. I have searched this site and everyone has good advice but I don't know which way to go. It seems that most people on here do not like Mobil 1 but I'm not sure how much brand has to do with it as much as weight. I could go thicker but is that going to solve the problem? I have also considered putting Seafoam in the crankcase to see if that might help but I'm hesitant to do so since it seems that everyone says that the tapping is normal and I don't want to break free to much carbon and clog the oil screen. I have noticed that there are several other products out there such as z-max and valve medic but I'm not sure about those either. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I would like to add that I used this site to find out the easiest way to change a headlight gear and also how to fix a problem involving the BCM. Thanks again. ]]> V6 nthagarage http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141816 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141815&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 22:05:04 GMT I was hoping yall could help me on picking out the best detailing products that yall use for your cars. I want to learn how to really detail a car the right way and have the right products. I was hoping yall could help me on picking out the best detailing products that yall use for your cars. I want to learn how to really detail a car the right way and have the right products. ]]> Showcar and Detailing jmg93 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141815 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141813&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:11:34 GMT Need some opinions on Brake rotors and pads. I dont want to brake the bank, any suggestions. Need some opinions on Brake rotors and pads. I dont want to brake the bank, any suggestions. ]]> General Help 1slowbusa http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141813 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141810&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 19:34:09 GMT Hey everyone as some of you know last week I threw a SES light and cleaned the maf and it took care of it.....Now this morning I turn the car on and it starts to idle really high, when i shifted it into reverse it made a clunk (rpm's too high) then I go to put it into drive (A4) and it clunks again because the rpm's are too high, I am not throwing anymore SES light.......could it be a bad throttle positioning sensor? or something else?:think:suggestions please... ]]> Firebird / WS6 clg82 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141810 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141798&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:59:06 GMT well first off, i would ahve had a video of this but was on lunch break at work

so i work at walmart, been there for 8 yrs. theres another vetran associate who came to me a couple weeks ago and said "so we should race sometime". i said "im sure it will happen soon enough". so last thursday night at 5 oclock i was workin a late shift when they were gettin off work a couple cars in front of me and i was headed to dinner break.

so we lined up at the light both leaving work together, 20mph i heard the boosted mustang spoolin up and i hit it. 20 roll the mustang jumped me but once 2nd gear top end on my car took effect it looked like someone dropped the anchor out the window as i passed it up. the mustang made 433whp/448tq but with those hellion kits on those cars its almost a 4000-4100lbs pig (my best friends gf aslo has one)

but anyway just thought id share that and i was definatly kickin my ass i didnt have my camera with me but that just goes to show u, anything can happen on lunch break ]]> Kill Stories jdcws6 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141798 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141796&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:20:10 GMT The BMW 550i has the Logic 7 sound system which sounds OK, for the most part, but it's a little weak, mainly in the mid-low region. I have owned many vehicles and I must say that they all had “less than appreciable” OE sound systems but the Logic 7 is by far the best “out the gate” system in a car I have ever owned. That said, it still lacks. As you all may know, BMW places a shallow 6” sub underneath the front seats in most of their vehicles. After speaking with a friend, I decided that the only thing the system really needed was a little more bass and decided to keep the factory 6” subs and let them play mid bass. Wanting to keep a stealth feel to the system, I chose the JL Audio 6W3v3-4. It was also convenient because I had two laying around the shop that were from a previous build that the customer never came back to have installed after he ordered them. All I needed now was an amplifier. Just so happens I had an Audio Systems Twister F300 laying around too from a similar situation (glad they were paid for in advance)!

Since the 550i is my daily driver, I did not want to sacrifice trunk space so the equipment I had was perfect. Not wanting to cut on the car but keep the bass in the cabin, firing the subs through the ski hole would be perfect, only if it had one! Wait, I can make one! Once the rear seat is removed you will find that it is just 1/4” ABS in the “ski hole” location.













Removing the trim panel, I cut a perfect square and transfered it to 3/4” MDF, making 2 inserts (needed 1.5” depth to clear rear of seat).







Next, I transfered the inside of the opening to the trim panel and flushed it in, creating a seamless ski hole. I made several more of these shapes for the front of the sub enclosure to serve as a mounting plate and ensure no air escaped. A piece of grill mesh wire was attached with two-part epoxy and the trim panel was then covered in black suede for an “OEM” appearance.













Three-quarter-inch MDF was used for the sub enclosure as well. Once the enclosure was built I had to add a “cap” to it and seal it with silicone (some use caulking) to again ensure that no air escaped between the rear seat and the cabin. Since the rear seat sits at about a 30 degree angle, I had to build a stand for the enclosure to sit flush against the rear seat.













With all enclosures, you want to ensure that they are securely mounted. In this case I cut metal brackets, bent at 90 degrees and mounted to the enclosure and used the rear seat attachment points. The amplifier was mounted to the top of the enclosure and the wires ran neatly across the rear shelf. Because the enclosure now sits at an angle, a plate was made that sits on a negative angle so the trim panel will sit vertical at 0 degrees.




Now the fun part, trimming the trunk. Although this is my daily driver, I am in the process of doing a complete Hartge (European BMW Tuner www.hartge.de) conversion and thought it would be a great idea to incorporate that logo into the install. I also wanted to give JL Audio some props because those lil 6W3v3's ROCK! With that being said, it must still be clean, simple, and not take away from the overall appearance of the vehicle...here goes. Make a template of the space using chip board first. Then transfer that to MDF, in this case 1/4”.







Remember, the trunk must remain functional, so do not cover those luggage tie downs! Tape off the area and fill in any gaps with duraglass/kitty hair, etc., creating a tight pressure fit. The vertical piece and the flat piece are now my platforms and I can begin to configure the trim panels. Again, do not forget to integrate the OE pull & attachment points.













Remember that Hartge logo, I created it using vinyl letters for a mock up and drew the shape around them. I then used my table mounted router the trim the shapes out. I also added 1/4” acrylic for a cool lighting effect.













To give JL Audio their props for making a great small sub I decided it was time that this Install was almost over and made the JL Audio Watch! Once you have your idea, draw it out on the material of choice and then get some straight edges and curves and route the shape out that you want.













To keep the light theme going, I added a piece of 1/4” acrylic to the watch bezel as well. Once I was satisfied with the overall fit, I wrapped the entire trunk in the same black suede that I used on the rear seat trim panel. The platform pieces of the trunk received matching exterior color black sapphire metallic paint. For the bottom platform, the Hartge logo was painted in the Hartge blues & silver metallic for the letters. The JL Audio watch band was wrapped in a grey suede for contrast, as well as the trim for the Hartge logo. The subwoofer level control was place near the gear selector for easy access. What's left is a nicely integrated OEM sound system that retains the trunk and sounds great! Phase 1 of the Immortalization process complete. —Yusuf Boyd















More... ]]> Stereo and Electronics Ed Blown Vert http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141796 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141795&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:20:10 GMT We love custom cars as much as the next guy, but some of the vehicles on display at the Lexani event were off the chart! Car club, Nokturnal, had a large crew at the show with a wild range of rides. Some of the installs were even wilder. Not everything was quite so extreme; there were some higher... We love custom cars as much as the next guy, but some of the vehicles on display at the Lexani event were off the chart! Car club, Nokturnal, had a large crew at the show with a wild range of rides. Some of the installs were even wilder. Not everything was quite so extreme; there were some higher end cars with some tasteful systems. But the festival had a lot more than cars on display. They had a drifting exhibition, music acts and a bikini contest (of course). See the gallery for all the action.

The Lexani show took place in Anaheim, CA, at Angels Stadium.



An old friend of the magazine, Ivan Tampi, with his Mustang full of Kenwood gear.



We weren't sure if this were a car or an audio system on something that looked like an automobile.




Photography by Sora Loewen



More... ]]> Stereo and Electronics Ed Blown Vert http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141795 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141792&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 14:27:50 GMT Here's the scoop:
-'97 T/A's LT1 installed in a 1980 Scout.
-Stock except for LT4 Hot Cam
-True dual 2.5" exhaust, stock manifolds, with no converters
-K&N conical filter just ahead of the MAF, into stock elbow with silencer removed and blocked off
-Pre-electronic 700r4 from 1990 Blazer
-Accel Opti, about a year old

I had nearly 200k on the stock engine, and it chucked a #8 rod bearing back in April. This was on my way from VA to Charlotte Auto Fair, and I went ahead and drove it easy down and back, parking it when I got home. I ended up getting a reman long block, and am finally getting around to finishing it up. I took the engine, replaced the camshaft and swapped over all of my old parts. Originally, when I put the engine in 2 years ago, I had the transmission and smog stuff removed from the ECM from LT1swap.com. While the Scout was down, I sent the ECM to Ion at MadTuner.com this time to compensate for the cam. I also had him program it for a larger throttle body I had, but it ended up getting used elsewhere before I could get it. So it is running the stock TB, with presumably the ECM programmed for a larger TB. That is really the only funky thing that I can think of with it.


Here's the issue:
I got it running a week or so ago, and it idled great, had great throttle response, etc. All seemed great letting it run for 30-45 seconds sitting in the shop. So I get the radiator all plumbed, fans wired up, power steering plumbed, etc a few nights ago, and let it run long enough to watch for leaks and see if it gets hot, make sure the fans come on, and all that good stuff. So it runs fine for a few minutes, then all of a sudden it starts idling rough. What the heck? I reach under the hood and flip the throttle a little bit and throttle response is SUPER sluggish, and I have to feather it to get the RPMs to come up. If I let it drop back to idle from a 1500-2000 (???) RPM rev, it will sputter and die. Upon trying to restart it, it will turn over, fire a couple times, but not well enough to actually start up. Give it maybe 20% throttle and it will start, though. If I let off the throttle and let it come back to idle on it's own too quickly, it'll die again...or feather it down and it goes to the rough, barely idling state. Now, after a time, ranging from a few seconds to a minute or so, it will go right back to normal. It's immediate from good-to-bad, and from bad-to-good. Like throwing a switch. It's even done it a few times WHILE cranking it back up from dying out, turns over firing and coughing, then all of a sudden it fires right up and runs like it should for a few more minutes.

I am getting two codes, generally two times each. They are:
-P0785, which is for a 3-2 shift solenoid. The transmission is supposed to be programmed out. Ion knows about this and is going to fix it, but I'd like to get the thing running right, or at least diagnosed before sending the ECM back.
-P0336, which is the crankshaft position sensor. I understand that this should NOT effect the performance of the engine. I would like to have it fixed, but I don't know where to go from here, and the performance is obviously more important than the code to me. I put a keyed pulley hub on it from Summit when I put the long block in. The CPS reluctor wheel was keyed, IIRC, so it has to be clocked right, but could I have put it on upside down? The wiring looks okay going to it, and the sensor was working when I pulled the other engine apart, so I assume it's still good. For $150 I doubt I'll replace it "just to see" if it's bad.

Ion says to unhook an O2 sensor to force it to run in open loop and see if it "fixes it". I also plan to put a fuel pressure gauge and timing light on it tonight, to see if it's electrical or fuel related.

Anything else you guys know of to try to diagnose this thing? ]]> LT1 LT4Hawk9 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141792 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141789&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 13:10:19 GMT The motor recently blew and I have an ls6 waiting to be put in but i want something more. So I just purchased a S10 and selling the Camaro to a buddy of mine. It has 125XXX on the motor and 212XXX on the body and it is a 1996 body style and he just got new paint on it. I will be putting the ls6... The motor recently blew and I have an ls6 waiting to be put in but i want something more. So I just purchased a S10 and selling the Camaro to a buddy of mine. It has 125XXX on the motor and 212XXX on the body and it is a 1996 body style and he just got new paint on it. I will be putting the ls6 with a t56 transmission in the truck and hopefully I can turn it into a monster. If you guys have any suggestions they will be appriciated. ]]> Camaro / SS 10spokess http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141789 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141788&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:58:31 GMT i was just wondering if anyone makes replacement knobs or aftermarket knobs for automatic cars i dont like the knob on my car would like to change it if anyone knows please help me out :rockon: i was just wondering if anyone makes replacement knobs or aftermarket knobs for automatic cars i dont like the knob on my car would like to change it if anyone knows please help me out :rockon: ]]> Camaro / SS pewter Z28 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141788 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141786&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 11:39:57 GMT http://ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68924

The rule above explains why you can't post in the classifieds. We also don't allow classified posts in any forums except the classifieds. This is now multiple times moderators have had to delete your for sale posts. We will take further action against your account if you make any further attempts to make for sale posts outside of the classified area. ]]> Firebird / WS6 chknhwk01 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141786 http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141783&goto=newpost Thu, 29 Jul 2010 07:11:56 GMT Here are some pictures of my 58 Chev short box. I've had this for over 20 years and this is the year it will be drivable and next year all new body work. I am presently building the box with a;ll aluminum insert which is tubbed. I will post more pics soon as the build continues.
]]> Classic Muscle lowrider http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141783