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  1. #1
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    96 Z28 M6

    What about this set up?

    An LT1 with K&N intake, borla exhuast, cam, shift kit, sub frame connectors, and a tune. What kind of power and you expect out of this and what kind of 1/4 times would that give?

  2. #2
    SCPO - Retired joerockhead's Avatar
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    Bad Ass 67 Camaro / 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    An LT1 with K&N intake, borla exhuast, cam, shift kit, sub frame connectors, and a tune. What kind of power and you expect out of this and what kind of 1/4 times would that give?
    Depends on what CAM

  3. #3
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    96 Z28 M6

    Not too sure, im looking for a pretty descent cam that still going to be a DD and taken the track rarely. Going to do more racing on the street. Also dont want to spend that much on them I guess. I dont know much about the cams. Can you recommond what kind to get, my main goal is to get the car to be as fast if not faster then a stock LS1 f-body

  4. #4
    Member camarolvr69's Avatar
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    1997 camaro z28

    You're gonna need headers for any size cam preferably LT's. I would add gears to that, A4 low 13's possibly high 12's. Most Shift kits are garbage.
    I'm no expert so take my response with a grain of salt...

  5. #5
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    96 Z28 M6

    cams would probably be the last thing I get, before the tune.

  6. #6
    LTX N20LT4's Avatar
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    If you do a shift kit go with Trans Go. It actually works. As far as a good daily driver setup, the LT4 HOT Cam or CC305 are excellent choices.
    486/438
    10.68/127 N/A


  7. #7
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    96 Z28 M6

    how much do does cams usually run?

  8. #8
    LTX N20LT4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    how much do does cams usually run?
    Around $250 for a good bumpstick. The LT4 HOT Cam Kit is still probably the best bargain for a street LT1. At $560, it comes with everything you need for a complete cam swap (all except pushrods which are dirt cheap anyways).

  9. #9
    Member jasonisdn's Avatar
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    96 ss

    back in the day a couple of our local club guys ran a nitrous grind from comp with long tubes, gears (6 speed cars) , normal bolt ons and a 12 bolt rear. they ran 12.2's in 90 some degree heat all day long. thats stock heads and bottom end.

  10. #10
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    yea 560 is a little out of my price range.
    That one u were talking about for 250, how well does that preform?

  11. #11
    LTX N20LT4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    yea 560 is a little out of my price range.
    That one u were talking about for 250, how well does that preform?
    CC305 is a classic. Highly viewed among many LT1 enthusiasts.

  12. #12
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    96 Z28 M6

    So im guessing its still pretty good, enough to take out an LS1?

  13. #13
    LTX N20LT4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    So im guessing its still pretty good, enough to take out an LS1?
    LT1's and LS1's can be closer than many think. It just really depends on the LT1. From my experience, many LT1's aquire problems with mileage more so than many other V8's. Things like worn opti-sparks, and problems than no one seems to be able to find - hence bad driveability. An LS1 is a much better motor in this fact and are much more consistant. Some LT1's only need a few bolt-ons to make up the difference, while some need more. Surely though a cammed/header LT1 will outrun a stock LS1.

  14. #14
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    96 Z28 M6

    Ok so that gives me better hopes. I still much rather have an LS1 but so hard to find and been looking for 7months so im maybe going to settle for a 96/97 LT1

  15. #15
    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    It doesn't take much to take a stock LS1. I just have a lot of bolt-ons and I stayed with an 04 GTO up to ~130mph or so. Sure, the GTO is heavier than an LS1 f-body, but it got better exhaust from the factory (hence, the higher advertised power rating compared to an f-body). But some bolt-ons will usually do the trick.

  16. #16
    LTX N20LT4's Avatar
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    You can expect about 3 tenths/3mph difference on average between the two, though it varies (ofcourse) depending on the car. Nonetheless, an LT1 in good health needs only bolt-ons to outrun an LS1.

  17. #17
    LTX N20LT4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    Ok so that gives me better hopes. I still much rather have an LS1 but so hard to find and been looking for 7months so im maybe going to settle for a 96/97 LT1
    96/97...94, 95...there all the same. Focus on a car in great exterior/interior shape with low mileage, and a strong, healthy running LT1 - not necessarily the year, unless you just have to have a 96 or 97 model. The 10 horsepower the factory supposedly installed in the '96 model never showed up to the consumer.

  18. #18
    Rice Killa JwMonE99's Avatar
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    96 Z28 M6

    So they all have 275?

  19. #19
    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    Around 275, all will show different numbers though.

  20. #20
    LTX N20LT4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JwMonE99 View Post
    So they all have 275?
    Or whatever number. Some say the LT1 is slightly (hence: slightly) underrated, as some cars have pushed in excess of 260 to the rear-wheels. 275 is just what the factory rated them @ in 93-95. In 1996 they recieved the dual cat config which was said to have given an addition 10 horsepower. But if you look @ LT1 F-bodies across the board, they all pretty much put out the same power numbers, give or take.

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