Expert help for prospective buyer...

**Kamauxx** · 07-15-2007, 06:03 AM

Hello forum. New here and will be (hopefully) buying a Z28 in the next 3 weeks. I read here yesterday about a guy who's car wasn't as strong as it should be because he got a model with a dead spot in the gears.

I'm by far not an expert, or even close when it comes to these things so I was wondering if someone could tell me some things I need to look for while searching for a 98-99 Z28. I want this thing to perform as well as possible while remaining dependable enough for me to drive ALOT.

Any help is appreciated!

**Kamauxx** · 07-15-2007, 06:21 AM

1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z-28 Coupe, EC, no rain/ snow, auto, T-tops, red, red/grey cloth int, Monsoon cd, 17K, under hood ram-air, high flow air lid w/filter, stainless converters, 3" y-pipe, corsa exhaust, 3.73 gears, 2800 stall spd torque convt, programmer, 160 degree therm

Here is an ad that caught my attention. There are some things in it that are French to me, so what is a air lid? Stainless converters, 2800 stall spd torque convt., 160 degree therm? What are those things and are they good? Do they ruin the dependability of the vehicle?

What would be a good price for this Camaro?

**Anthracis** · 07-15-2007, 06:49 AM

A lid is something that people swap out on the car because the stock air lid has ribs on the inside. It is the lid to the air intake (where the air filter is housed). It goes from the front of the engine bay and connects to the mass air meter and the throttle body.

Converters are the catalytic converters that some people swap out because the stockers are more restrictive. they are part of the exhaust system of the vehicle.

Stall speed is the engine RPM at which the torque converter transfers the power of the engine to the transmission. Even under light loads, a vehicle with an automatic transmission will start moving as soon as you take your foot off the brake. The stall speed comes into play under all load conditions. When we talk about stall speed, we're referring to engine RPM. If the vehicle isn't moving by the time the impeller reaches the stall speed, either it will start to move, or the engine RPM will no longer increase.

The 160 temp thermostat usually replaces the factory 195º unit on most performance oriented peoples' vehicles, this allows the coolant to circulate at lower engine temperatures, keeping the engine cooler. This is one thing that I've heard that may reduce engine life but really not by that much.

Sounds like the guy also installed a 3" Y-pipe (also part of the exhaust system) in place of the stocker. This also allows the car to breathe better.

Corsa exhaust (just a brand name like Borla, Flowmaster, etc...) Probably the piping and mufflers. Allows the engine to breathe easier. Good for a few horsepower.

He also installed higher gear ratio on the car. Z cars usually came with either the 2.73 or 3.23 (SS) gear ratios from the factory. The rear end inevitably goes out on these cars. They kinda SUCK. The last owner replaced mine 5 times before I bought it. People end up replacing their rears but mine I think is a special case with 5 time replacement. Since then though I haven't had any problems with the rear. I swapped this old rear out and I installed a ford 9 inch rear with Eaton POSI and aluminum housing and 3.73 gears. On an auto, you don't want anything larger than 3.73.

He also got a handheld programmer and downloaded a performance oriented computer tune. You better make sure that you get the handheld unit from the owner if you end up buying this one in case you ever want to go back to the stock settings. The programmer allows you to modify air/fuel ratios, take off the top speed limiter, play with the rev limiter, make changes for gear/wheel size, etc...its good to have but a dyno tune is much better.

Most of the mods (modifications) you have listed are just fine. I'm of the "Go Hard or Go Home" mentality so I have done a lot more to my car. You will also be bitten by the mod bug soon enough. Some other things to consider are: headers, heads/cam combo, roller rockers, building the bottom end of the engine, performance rebuild of the transmission, swap out rear, sub-frame connectors, performance springs (Eibach Sportline or Pro-Kit) and Shocks, Lower control arms, etc...

Good luck and welcome to the forums. Semper Fi and Carry On!

**Anthracis** · 07-15-2007, 06:50 AM

Also, keep reading the threads on this forum and use the search function. You will get much more info than what I have provided.

**Kamauxx** · 07-15-2007, 06:59 AM

Thanks for all the info. What do you think would be a good price for a car with these mods at these miles. And how small of a worry would that 160 degree therm. be?

**Anthracis** · 07-15-2007, 07:49 AM

It really depends on the market and your area. I think in your area, probably around $8900 +/- depending on condition. But at 17K miles, it should be in excellent condition.

The mileage seems low. That's good.

Thermostat (copied and pasted)

http://www.thirdgen.org/electric_coo...pec_mod_single

So let’s say that you install a 160°F thermostat and a switch that engages the fan at 176°F (or so). It seems like the ideal situation -- until the first cold day. Then, the engine will never reach full operating temperature because the fan is running -- when you don’t want it to. The heater will only work marginally, at best. Of course, you can change your thermostat and fan switch twice per year, but do you really want to do that? How about a typical fall or spring day when it’s cold in the morning and warm in the afternoon. What do you do then? Or how about on a beautiful day when suddenly, a weather front moves in, drastically dropping the temperature within hours.

Hope this helps.

**JwMonE99** · 07-15-2007, 07:50 PM

So would you guys recommend getting the 160 thermostat?

**StuntmanMike** · 07-15-2007, 08:17 PM

Originally Posted by JwMonE99

So would you guys recommend getting the 160 thermostat?

Personally, and generally speaking, I wouldn't.

The engines are designed to run at a higher temperature, and they're more efficient at that temp.

You'll probably be running richer at *160, and getting worse fuel economy. Also, in the winter, your heat won't work as well.

I'd split the difference and run a *180 or so.

**Anthracis** · 07-15-2007, 08:38 PM

I wouldn't do it. I didn't do it. There are guys on this forum who have. I'm not an advocate of it though.

**Kamauxx** · 07-26-2007, 09:55 AM

I'm really close to getting this Z. Anyone know how hard/easy it is to install another thermostat? And what is the cost of one?

Can I still have the car tuned without having the tuner that this guy modded the car with?

**SSwt00SS** · 07-26-2007, 10:14 AM

Originally Posted by Kamauxx

I'm really close to getting this Z. Anyone know how hard/easy it is to install another thermostat? And what is the cost of one?

Can I still have the car tuned without having the tuner that this guy modded the car with?

easy fix, and have fun playing w/coolant...

replacement thermostats will be around the $40 range. stick with a 180° stat...

**35thAnniZ28** · 07-26-2007, 12:34 PM

Originally Posted by SSwt00SS

easy fix, and have fun playing w/coolant...

replacement thermostats will be around the $40 range. stick with a 180° stat...

dood it should be a diy

**SSwt00SS** · 07-26-2007, 01:32 PM

Originally Posted by 35thAnniZ28

dood it should be a diy

it is a DIY, i never said he needed to take it somewhere to get it done...

**Kamauxx** · 07-27-2007, 12:10 PM

Welp, I'm wrapping up all the final details and I'll probably be buying this car on the 2nd or 3rd. Going to change that thermostat out ASAP.

Thanks for all the help everyone.