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  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Aug 2005
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    Coronado, CA
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    76

    white
    2001 Trans am

    Few questions about Suspension mods

    Well, actually alot of questions.

    I noticed that the bolt on SFC are more expensive than the weld on, I would figure that the weld on would work better. Right? Also, should I spit out the extra money and get the diamond SFC or just get the parallel ones?

    Should I get an adjustable Panhard rod or can I get away with a non-adjustable?

    I noticed there are alot of different LCA's with poly, chrome poly, poly rubber, etc. Which ones do yall recomend?

    About the torque arm, Would a normal edelbrock one work, or should I go with a heavy duty one?

    I do not intend on lowering the car since of LT's, should I get springs and shocks or just shocks? Are all shocks about the same?

    The last mod I will probably get would be the strut tower brace. Are all the brands really the same? Any recomendations.

    Well, since I got all the questions off my chest. I plan on haveing the car as a daily driver for 5-10 years and the car should be putting down 400rwhp. I am not looking for the best suspension money can buy, I am looking for the best bang for the buck.
    Any advice would help me out alot. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    Apr 2002
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    San Jose
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    Red
    1998 Pontiac Trans Am

    well, in regards to your suspension, it sounds like you're going for an all around type of setup. SFC's will help a lot with stiffening your chassis. You want to look into the diamond type because it squares your floorpan and stiffens up your car a lot since it crosses your entire undercarriage. I went with regular boxed SFC's not diamond and honestly they work but I kinda wish I went for the diamonds. As far as the rest of your suspension, if you hit the track a lot or like the twisties, I'd recommend going for an adjustable setup. It's a pretty penny but it's well worth it because of the infinite adjustments. For durability, chromoly is always the best choice since it is stiff and more rigid than mild steel and will have less of a chance to warp over time or break. LCA's are a great first mod to do as well as a panhard rod. A lot of company's sell this as a package and it's a lways a good deal. There are Boxed LCA's and regular tubular and what ever style you want is your decision cause the function of either of the above wil work just the same. Your panhard bar will square the rear end up and it's a good idea to look into an adjustable setup. Look into Spohn suspension or even BMR. With LCA's and a panhard rod you will notice a nice hook up on launches and through the turns, the rear end stays a lot more planted to the ground. Another wise investment to look into if you're looking for traction would be a crossmember relocated torque arm. Your stocker connects to your tranny and it's great for stock, but if you want that traction, look into a spohn torque arm that relocates to your crossmember. Look into the torque arm made for long tube headers. There is a difference in design and clearance. The Edelbrock you mentioned will work fine as well, but if you want to notice a big difference, don't go cheap on the torque arm and look into the spohn I suggested above or the BMR track pak. Global west makes one as well. Springs, look into adjustable springs. I know one of our sponsors sells them but you can adjust your ride height with adjustable springs so you can find the perfect ride height for your car. Shocks, Bilsteins are great, I run with KYB AGX's and haven't a problem in 3 years. Koni's are great but pricey and if you decide, get the single adjustable Koni's not the double's. Doubles will be overkill especially for a regualr street application. As far as your STB, unless you're planning to get Fuel Rail covers or have them already, any will do. Personally I like the designs of the hotchkiss and the G2 STB's. You will notice a difference in steering response with a STB, I tried driving with mine off once and it didn't feel quite as tight through the turns. There are two types of braces, 2 point and 3 points. Urban myth goes a point can cause you to break your windshield. I still have to break mine after almost 7 years. SO you decide on what type of STB you want. Anyways, chromoly products are stifer than mild steel but you will pay the price for the quality. Adjustable is a good option if you like to drive on track a lot or want the ability to play with your suspension till you find the right setup for you. Those two things will decide what you want to do to your car.
    98 WS6 M6 ASC #2647
    Forged Custom 408 w/Vortec YSi

  3. #3
    Junior Member
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    Aug 2005
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    Saskatchewan
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    42
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    90

    White
    1998 Camaro SS

    are tubular lca's just as good as boxed?

    Is an after market panhard bar stronger? or does it just allow for adjusting?

  4. #4
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    Red
    1998 Pontiac Trans Am

    Aftermarket Panhards are definately stronger because the factory GM piece is just a piece of thin stamped steel with a lot of flew. Tubular and boxed, you make your own opinions. I have boxed LCA's and my buddy has Tubular and I hven't noticed much of a difference

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