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01-11-2008, 08:10 AM #1
springs and shocks... is that enough??
I'd like to lower my car sometime soon. I was thinking of going with the eibach prokit or get bmr springs and some other brand of shocks. Is that all I would need? I heard that after lowering these cars we need to install other parts to realign the rear end. thanks
1999 Trans Am M6
SLP Short Throw, Lid and CAI, Strano Springs, Koni Sport Shocks, BMR STB and SFC, UMI PHB, Pacesetter LT's and ORY, Magnaflow Catback, DMH 3" E-Cutout, LS7 Clutch, Motive 4.10, 160 T-Stat, MSD wires,, 17x9.5 Chrome C6's wrapped in Hankook 275/40/17
Tuned at Mongillo Motors in New Haven, CT - 303 RWHP and 308 RWTQ
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01-11-2008, 08:27 AM #2
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- Sep 2005
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- rochester,ny
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pewter- 2001 z28 lingenfelter 383
the part your talking about is the adjustable panhard rod and u dont ALWAYS need one...your rear end could likely not even be lined up straight from the factory.......its a cheap part anyways.....just over a 100 bucks...u will need springs and shocks ...for shocks u can go with revalved bilsteins about 600 bucks or get konis which are much better in most ppls opinion which are about 800.....give sam strano a call and he can help u with your needs....his site is a sponser on here now...i have strano springs and konis and couldnt be happier ..the stance is awsome and so is the handling now
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01-11-2008, 08:31 AM #3
600-800 just for shocks??? I was hoping to get the springs for $200-220 and I've seen bilstein shocks for around $350
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01-11-2008, 08:50 AM #4
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- Sep 2005
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- rochester,ny
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pewter- 2001 z28 lingenfelter 383
HAVE to have the bilsteins revalved unless u get that SLP eibach package deal......revalved bilsteins are in the 600 range last i knew .....its not a cheap mod ...sry..lol ..have u looked into the install as well??? and u need a front end alignment when your done.....u can borrow a spring compressor for free from autozone for the fronts....backs are easy as hell
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01-11-2008, 11:48 AM #5
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
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- Brookville, PA
- Posts
- 547
White- 2001 Z28
I won't bore you with the details as a search can find many threads about shock damping when lowering and so on.
Bottom line, you get what you pay for. Bilstien's have never been intended for lowering spring. You can spend all kinds of money on good valve springs, or less on stock ones. If you had a cam, which should you use? Will the car run on stock one--yeah. Is it right? Could you do better? Tires, same thing. You can get cheap 275's, or expensive ones. Do you think Pep-boys tires are the same as Eagle F1D3's? Of course not....
Shocks are spring dampers. Different springs need shocks appropriate for the job.Sam Strano
SCCA National Champion (x6)
SCCA ProSolo Class Champion (x5)
2009 SCCA ProSolo Overall Champion
Owner--Strano Performance Parts
814-849-3450
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01-16-2008, 12:25 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- texas
- Posts
- 12
awesome, me too!
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01-16-2008, 10:16 PM #7
strano knows ive seen him in gmhtp. great white Z28
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01-17-2008, 06:56 AM #8
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Muncie, IN
- Posts
- 2,554
00 TA PWTR, 98 VertTA NBM- 80 TA BLK, 80 Formula NBM
in regards to your first question. . . bmr makes a nice lowering kit including lowering springs, adjustable panhard bar, and control arm relocation brackets for $440. no shocks though.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/4F-PACKAGES.htm
you'll have to scroll down a bit. you'll also see on that page, that bmr does have a handling kit that is bad ass but level 1 is about $11002000 TA, A4, LS6 intake, Magnaflow, WS9 hood, BMR STB, UMI boxed SFC, Spohn LCA, 9" Ford
1998 TA Vert, NBM, M6, Flowmaster, WS6 hood, WS6 airbox, C6 wheels, UMI SFC, BMR STB
1998 Bird, Black, V6, A4, 18" 077's, Wings West Body Kit
1980 Formula, NBM, 402BB, cam, DR timing, LT headers, 3" TD w/ flowmasters, TH350
1980 TA, Black, 301, bone stock
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01-17-2008, 07:44 AM #9
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
- Location
- Brookville, PA
- Posts
- 547
White- 2001 Z28
Their springs cost less, but aren't the same as mine in terms or how they work or what they weight. I don't automatically assume things like LCA brackets are required--maybe because my car is lowered without them and it handle *pretty well* and has no wheelhop issues.
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01-17-2008, 09:27 AM #10
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01-17-2008, 10:30 AM #11
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- Dec 2007
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- Brookville, PA
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- 547
White- 2001 Z28
I think I can do better, and being I actually build and compete in cars that are meant to turn I think I can back up those claims.
I sell Tokico shocks too, they aren't part of a handling pack because I dont' think they should be. They are not up to snuff for these cars. Our springs are not the same except being of similar ride heights. My spring rates and winding (linear working rate) are all based of my experience and off of what I run on my own car over the years. My springs also weigh about 15 pounds per set less being made of a different material.
I think the quality of the parts themselves is fine. I'm a UMI guy but won't badmouth BMR. They are very nice folks from the dealings I've had with them. I'm sure they, like me probably feel they do the best work. It's not so much about the parts themselves (some is, I use very different shocks and swaybar sizes), but the way the parts are put together. And what's more, even though I have "kits" too, I prefer not to sell them unless or until we conclude all those items have a use for your goals.
Lame line, but I tell folks a lot that parts are exactly like medicines. You don't throw meds at something that isn't wrong, or a concern unless you like to waste money and cause unforseen interactions.
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01-17-2008, 11:15 AM #12
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
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- Muncie, IN
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- 2,554
00 TA PWTR, 98 VertTA NBM- 80 TA BLK, 80 Formula NBM
Make since, i think the kits just make it easier on having to research everything you need/want and save ya little money (even though you may be buyin certain things you don't need)
so to answer the original posters question. . . assuming a basic street car, the best way to lower an fbody is probably springs, koni shocks, and an adjustable panhard comared to just springs,adj panhard, and relocation brackets? or is koni shocks really worth the money for your everyday street/sometime strip fbody owner?
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01-17-2008, 11:46 AM #13
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
- Location
- Brookville, PA
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- 547
White- 2001 Z28
I understand the want for a package. But it's like optioning up a new car. Do you prefer to buy only from a set list of options, or would you like to order options individually. I like the option to do exactly what I want and get only what I need, not what someone thinks I should have.
If you buy things you don't need, how does that save you money? If you had to buy 10 gallons of milk to get one free, but only use a gallon a week and end up not using the rest, or even if you used all 10, but not the 11th free one, what did you gain?
Again, I have kits. If someone wants one, I'd be happy to discuss the parts contained in each. But I cannot and will not recommend one without talking it over first on the phone so I know what I'm trying to recommend for. Sadly asking a one line question like "what's the best way" will get you about as many opinions as there are people. Some will say springs are all you need. Some will say cut the stock springs. Some that you need an adjustable PHB, or LCA brackets, or LCA themselves. Some will have combination. The fact is all you NEED is some way to lower. But what you need to do it correctly depends on if you want a POS driving car, or one that's not. I can't discuss the if/then's by e-mail.
If someone want's to order a package because it's easy, that's fine and why they exist. But if they want detail, help, or to understand and learn about the parts then customer service is important and that's not something well done by a sentence, a paragraph, or even an entire e-mail. I'm sure that might cost me customers from time to time, but I'd rather sell less and know it's right for the job than more and risk setups that aren't quite right. 90% right is good, but not if we can do 100% because that's better.
And yes, Koni's rock. Are good tires worth it for an everyday street/sometimes strip car? Sure. Good parts are good parts, if they are used in the right context. Shocks damp the car and make it drive better. If you don't care or have no issue with the stock shocks then you can probably get away with less. But you could also get away with 300 rwhp, but if you can have 330 you would probably think about it.....
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01-17-2008, 12:00 PM #14
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- Oct 2007
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- Muncie, IN
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- 2,554
00 TA PWTR, 98 VertTA NBM- 80 TA BLK, 80 Formula NBM
wow very good response lol. i totaly agree with everything you said. i believe you've sold me into calling you when i decide to upgrade my suspension!
But in the same logic, are you sayin if you dont care about ride quality at all and you just want to lower your car, is taken the torch and makin them springs a little red, alright? hahaha just wondering cuz me and dads done that on a coupe of his old hot rods! (you dont have to answer lol)
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01-17-2008, 12:38 PM #15
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- Dec 2007
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- Brookville, PA
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White- 2001 Z28
Is it alright? No. Can you do it and get the lower? Yes, but it's not smart.
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01-17-2008, 12:45 PM #16
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- Oct 2007
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- Muncie, IN
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- 2,554
00 TA PWTR, 98 VertTA NBM- 80 TA BLK, 80 Formula NBM
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