A few '94 V6 problems.

**deadboltmk** · 11-13-2006, 09:30 AM

1.) After switching to 30 weight oil from 20w-50 for the winter, car idles at 2000rpm instead of the usual 1000-1100. Have to break constantly to maintain any speed under 30mph.

2.) Blower motor works sometimes, other times doesnt. It'll quit for a week, then all the sudden work, then quit again. I have heating and cooling just no blowing.

3.)Rear main leak, anyone ever had these fixed? Is it worth it? Anyone know the cost of something like this?

thanks.

**sunset solar** · 11-13-2006, 09:48 AM

not sure the oil weight difference would have such a high difference in RPMs, I could be wrong, but what I might theorize is that something is up with your ECM. the ECM is what controls your fuel and spark, maybe something is going on with a sensor or the ECM itself causing it to run at a higher idle. I could be wrong on both parts, jsut an Idea. I do knwo that both advance and autozone offer free computer code reading, go check them out and see if you are throwing a code or something maybe?

Blower motor either sounds liek the motor is dieing, or like its not getting enough juice. Check fueses and maybe check to be sure that a wire didnt get loose or disconnected

on teh rear main, I had the same problem on my 94 v6. I never got around to fixing it becuase everwhere i read it was going to be a pain in the butt, the seal it self is somehting like 1 or 2$ so in parts you wont spend much, its jsut the labor.

sorry i couldnt be much help

**Steve Crowe** · 11-13-2006, 03:29 PM

By all means reset your PCM to see if that cures the idle problem. This is easily done by unhooking the NEGATIVE battery cable for at least an hour.

If that doesn't cure it there are a number of other possibilities, all of which are easier to solve if you have a spray can of Berryman B-12 handy.

Remove the IAC, clean the needle-like pintle as well as the hole it goes into. The pintle you can wipe with a saturated paper towel, the hole you'll just have to spray, wait, repeat a few times.

Remove the EGR and using B-12 and a small wire brush get the carbon off it.

Look for any potential vacuum leaks. If none are obvious try spraying a little B-12 on the vacuum hoses/fittings while the engine is running. If the idle speed changes when you hit a certain point you've probably found a leak.

**Orcus79** · 11-13-2006, 03:36 PM

CAn't help you too much on the RPM issue, but can shed light on the rear main seal. Yes the seal its self is inexpensive and is one piece. to replace it you have to remove the transmission and componits to relpace the seal. any leaking seal should be replaced as soon as possible to avoid excesive wear from occurinf on the part that oes though the seal and to keep put any contminates such as water and dirt. Plus the worse it gets the more oil you will use/loose which could lead to larger and more expensive repairs ie total lock up or a fire.

**deadboltmk** · 11-14-2006, 05:47 AM

thanks a lot guys. any tips as far as the blower motor works? I know it isnt shot because it works regularly for awhile then like for a week it'll just quit, then start back again.

**Steve Crowe** · 11-14-2006, 06:23 AM

I'm relatively sure your blower motor problem is in the resistor pack, sorry I forgot to mention that. Where it hides on a Camaro I'm unsure but on most GM cars of that vintage it's mounted to the blower motor case which is up under the dash on the passenger side. If it's anything like the few I've changed you have to be creative with a short 9/32" box end wrench to get one of the screws out.