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Thread: Please Help With My Problem
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11-24-2006, 06:54 AM #1
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
- Posts
- 9
black- 2000 TransAm
Please Help With My Problem
I have an '00 T/A with only 33,000 miles on it and I have a problem with it not starting. The problem is intermittent so GM has told me everything looks fine, but 1 out of 15-20 times I go to start my car, it won't start. Maybe 3-4 hrs. later it will start again, maybe not, but when it acts up, it leaves me sit for quite a while. I have replaced my ignition lock cylinder and key. GM did the work and they said it would solve my problem. Well, it didn't. I still have this problem. What could this be??? I don't want to turn my back on GM and sell my car. I've spent well over $50,000 on my last 3 F-bodys (a '94 and 2 '00s) but this has been going on for 3 months ever since I bought the car and I am stumped. PLEASE HELP!!!!
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11-24-2006, 07:03 AM #2
What 1st comes to mind is faulty battery/terminals. But, since u had it to GM, i would think that that is not the problem. Thats is a tough 1.
Last edited by Jon7I2; 11-24-2006 at 09:47 AM.
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11-24-2006, 02:38 PM #3
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- Nov 2006
- Location
- Australia
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- 1
Burgendy- 1999
Try Disconnecting the Imobiliser
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11-24-2006, 02:51 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
- Posts
- 2,723
Did the dealer say it was a passkey/Vats problem? - my first thought is bring it back and have them recheck it. When it won't start, does the engine turn over?
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11-25-2006, 07:50 AM #5
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
- Posts
- 9
black- 2000 TransAm
when it doesn't start, all lights and radio come on full power but it does not turn over AT ALL - a half hour later, it might start right up - or it might not....
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11-26-2006, 05:03 PM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Newport, Mi.
- Posts
- 116
red- 1999 Camaro SS
Like above, it could be faulty battery or battery connection. Disconnect the terminals, clean them up, and re-connect.
Also, check the leads to the starter & solinode (sp). These could be loose.
Check as many ground connections that you can find.
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11-27-2006, 03:16 PM #7
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
- Posts
- 2,723
With it not turning over at all still sounds like it could be a passkey/VATS issue like I mentioned earlier. Security light on?
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11-28-2006, 03:36 PM #8
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11-28-2006, 03:54 PM #9
possibly the soleniod sticking causing it not to crank. probably not considering it does finally crank. does it do it hot or cold or both? If it was me, I would check the vats system first. If that is for sure not it. I would trace all wires out, checking continuity (be sure to disconnect battery for the continuity check),check all starting related relays to ensure they are properly functioning, Check the bolts to the starter or ground strap (make sure they are tight), and if none of that works, then I would pull the starter and test it out of the car. Check brushes, armmature, etc. Make sure it is all good. That where I would start. But probably just a vats problem.
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11-29-2006, 10:51 AM #10
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
- Posts
- 9
black- 2000 TransAm
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11-29-2006, 10:55 AM #11
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
- Posts
- 9
black- 2000 TransAm
What's a VATS problem?
All that starter stuff, me and my friend did last night - INCLUDING pulling it out of the car and testing it - I noticed that all the wires leading up and away from it are heat wrapped. Also, of course, the battery was disconnected to check the continuity at the starter level.
But, what is this VATS thing? My friend even has a '94 (my old car that I sold him in '01) and he's a mechanic and doesn't know...HELP AGAIN??? BY the way - THANK YOU ALLLLLLL SOOOOOO MUCH FOR YOUR IDEAS. Lance
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11-29-2006, 10:55 AM #12
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Lancaster, PA
- Posts
- 9
black- 2000 TransAm
check two posts below - that is my response to you - thanks again!
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11-29-2006, 11:07 AM #13
YOU NEED TO DO A VOLTAGE DROP AT THE STARTER TO TEST THE CABLE....
FIRST TEST SOURCE VOLTAGE=BATT. VOLTAGE
SECOND MEASURE V.D. AT STARTER.....YOU TAKE ONE LEAD OFF THE MULTI-METER DOESN'T MATTER WHICH ONE AND PLACE IT ON THE + BATT. BOLTHEAD AND PLACE THE OTHER ON THE BATT. CABLE ON THE STARTER.
NOW COMPARE THE 2 #'S AND THAT WILL TELL YOU YOUR V.D.
IF IT'S NOT MORE THAN .75 OF A VOLT IT'S NOT YOUR PROBLEM!!!!!
THAN I WOULD SAY IT'S ALSO IN THE VATTS.SYSTEM IF YOUR BATT. CABLE IS GOOD....... RESISTANCE IN A WIRE DOES CHANGE WITH HEAT ALSO.Don't be afraid of the bottle!!! Be afraid of your tune!!!
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11-29-2006, 11:13 AM #14
I may be sticking my foot in my mouth but..... I had a 89 RS that had the same problem. I took it to a machanic to have the computer read and all kinds of stuff popped up. I can't remember what all I replaced but I do remember it costs alot of $$$$. On a whim I bought a computer, I figured why not I already spent this much and it cured the problem. I beat the living crap out of that thing is still around. I don't know much about cars but with what I do know is what has saved me in the past. I am just stating what happened to me it may not be your problem.
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11-29-2006, 11:19 AM #15
Also how close is your starter to your exhaust. My husband has a 68 goat that after a while of running and then shutting off the starter is too hot and will not crank the engine.
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11-29-2006, 02:38 PM #16
The vats system is basically the chip in your key. I assume you have one, I don't know for sure. The chip is black with a silver strip in the middle running parrellel with the key. The vats system looks for that chip and if it isn't found, then the car will not start. Kinda a theft deterrent. Inside the ignition switch there is a set of contacts that contact the chip in the key and sometimes those get wore just enough to cause problems. That is a brief rundown of the vats system. I hope it helps.
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