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Thread: Eibach Pro-kit Lowering springs
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12-02-2008, 05:12 AM #1
Eibach Pro-kit Lowering springs
Are these any good? and can they fit with all the stock components
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12-02-2008, 05:30 AM #2
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pewter- 2001 z28 lingenfelter 383
strano springs are more my cup a tea......and NO they wont work with all stock components.......your stock POS shocks cant keep up with lowering springs........youll need to upgrade the shocks when u do springs.....koni's would be best but u can get away with revalved bilsteins ( for the 200 more id go with koni's) and adj pan hard rod would also likely be recommended to line your rear back up after lowering........cost me about 1200 for teh whole set up.....installed myself.......my fav mod ....looks amazing and the ride/handling is incredible
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12-02-2008, 11:09 AM #3
no, as a result of lowering the stock springs wont be ideal to handle the lowered car. can you use the stock springs, yes, but it makes for a very loose, bouncy ride going over bumps, inclines, etc. ideally youd replace the shocks since you're already messing with the springs...
you would need at minimum:
LCA relocation brackets
Adjustable Panhard Bar
Set of shocks to compliment the lowering springs
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12-02-2008, 11:34 AM #4
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pewter- 2001 z28 lingenfelter 383
sammy strano says the lca's and apb are NOT nessesary in every application......have to lower your car first and see if your in need of them.....i have no traction or hopping issues so the lca's wernt nessesary....my rear was definitly way off center though so i picked up the UMI adj phr
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12-02-2008, 11:49 AM #5
LCA relocation brackets, since the angle the LCA's are once a vehicle is lowered deals with the centering (forward/rearward placement of the rearend in the wheel-well)...
im not saying he needs new LCA's at all, not what i said...
Adj PH Rod for centering of the rear end left/right under the car...
i needed the Adj PH Rod, and relo-brackets to correct the geometry of the rear-end for my car...
i find it surprising you didnt need relo-brackets for your car...
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12-02-2008, 01:11 PM #6
Are these shocks shorter so the rear wheels don't rest on the bump stops when on a chassis lift? That's the situation I have with my 315's. Has anyone else had to deal with this? I am talking about finding a method to hold the rear-end up from the bump stops with wide wheels. I have stock shocks but they droop enough for this to be a problem [when the rear is airborne].
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12-03-2008, 05:37 AM #7
you need to grind your bumbstops with 315's. do a search there is a thread about it with pic's for a step by step that is good.
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12-03-2008, 05:45 AM #8
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12-03-2008, 05:53 AM #9
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12-03-2008, 08:27 AM #10
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White- 2001 Z28
Let me clear some things up:
LCA's are not required to lower a car.
LCA Relocation brackets are NOT required to lower a car. My car is lowered and does not have them. In fact all 5 of my National Championships have been in pony-cars that were lowered and did not have brackets. It's not true everyone needs them. Sometimes we use them, depending on the purpose, but more often than not for handling we do not.
I run 315's and have my bumpstops on (and unmodified). Again, a myth you need to cut them down or out. Wheel offset matters, but they only touch when the axle is at full droop which is not something that happens anywhere but on jacks.
And finally, the length of the shock does not change, nor does it effect when you contact the bumpstops in the rear.
All you *NEED* to lower are springs. What you want to lower the car and have it drive right are a good matched set of springs, shocks and an adjustable Panhard bar, nothing else is required. Might be warranted in some cases, or wanted in others, but in no way is anything else to be considered a must have.Sam Strano
SCCA National Champion (x6)
SCCA ProSolo Class Champion (x5)
2009 SCCA ProSolo Overall Champion
Owner--Strano Performance Parts
814-849-3450
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12-03-2008, 03:46 PM #11
Thanks for chiming in Sam. I really appreciate comments from someone who makes their living at this, I just wish I had that opportunity.
But. I AM concerned about the axle when it gets to full droop. Sometimes when cresting hills and pitches on these hill-country roads you can get awfully light [air-born].
I was hoping someone knew of a shorter shock absorber that could keep the axle from dropping to where the bumpstops contact the rear wheel. Mine DO contact the wheel at full droop, and it looks like it could easily break a wheel or cut a tire.
If you have a appropriate shorter shock for the application, please say so and I'll call your shop with my order.
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12-03-2008, 03:50 PM #12
i have sean people use chanes or stapes to limit axal dope on 4x4's i dont know if it would work on one of are cars but it may be some thing to look in to. what do you think sam?
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12-03-2008, 04:25 PM #13
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12-03-2008, 04:36 PM #14
thats what i was thinking to but wasnt sure let me know what you find to fix the issue
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12-03-2008, 11:58 PM #15
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triple-black- 2000 CamaroSS convertible
fwiw... I don't have LCA relocation either.
I recommend getting good shocks though.Eugenio_SS
almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)
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12-04-2008, 10:53 AM #16
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12-04-2008, 12:37 PM #17
- Join Date
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pewter- 2001 z28 lingenfelter 383
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12-08-2008, 09:45 AM #18
i have the pro-kit installed (along with adj PHB) but still use the stock shocks. the car is driveable, but new shocks would be preferred for better handling and less jarring.
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