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09-09-2007, 07:09 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- NC
- Posts
- 266
green- 94 z28
Upgrading the "rear" of the cars?
Well, I'm stuck on this. What exactly is it? I've seen where people say it's pointless to throw so much power on a car without upgrading, but I'm not even sure what it is or what part you're actually upgrading. My car has about 150k miles on it and even as I bought it I started to noticed this weird feeling/noise at times and believe it's the what this repair is for. So any information would be appreciated.
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09-09-2007, 07:43 PM #2
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Broken Arrow, OK
- Age
- 49
- Posts
- 23,345
Pewter metallic- 2000 Camaro SS
The stock 10 bolt 7.5" GM rearend is the weakest post of the fbodies. Stock power levels can snap the factory 10 bolt. Add some HP, sticky tires and its generally RIP time for the factory rearend.
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09-09-2007, 08:15 PM #3
The rear is the pumpkin looking thing inbetween the two rear axels/tires. With 150k miles you'll want to have the gear oil replaced...i'd have who ever does it take the cover off and check for metal shavings/excessive wear also.
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09-10-2007, 10:43 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- NC
- Posts
- 266
green- 94 z28
Well, where would I find a better rear to replace the other, and how much does it usually cost(with and without labor)?
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09-10-2007, 12:41 PM #5
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Location
- Broken Arrow, OK
- Age
- 49
- Posts
- 23,345
Pewter metallic- 2000 Camaro SS
For a Moser or Strange 12 bolt, you are looking at $2000-2500 without any labor.
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09-10-2007, 01:52 PM #6
If you dont drag race it then dont worry about it. Just have the gear oil changed.
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09-12-2007, 05:45 AM #7
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Fredericksburg, VA
- Posts
- 151
Red- 2000 WS6
If you're not a serious drag racer, you could probably get away with putting on a girdle/stud kit.. and then swap in some good gear oil (I use Mobil 1 synth) as others have mentioned.
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