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Thread: Question about Drill Mod
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12-08-2007, 05:12 AM #1
Question about Drill Mod
Hello All.
I'm continuing to have the typical sticky clutch problem with my 02 SS. Next on the list before going full bore (LS7 clutch kit, master cylinder, slave, etc) is the drill mod.
Before I put the car in the shop for the drill mod, I want to understand whether or not there is any downside to doing the drill mod. I can't see where it would hurt, however thought it would be best to ask the question before pulling the trigger.
Thanks!2002 Camaro SS M6, 2.5 PRC 5.3L heads, TFS 228/230 cam, FAST 92, bolt ons + a 10 lb bottle in the back.
1989 Corvette L98, A4, Full bolt ons, etc.
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12-08-2007, 08:20 AM #205 PBM GTOCold Air Inductions CAI,Relocated IAT with omega,Slp Predator tune,Flowmaster axle back with H pipe,Custom tuned TCM.BC Racing coil overs
Sold 01 z28
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01-15-2008, 11:28 AM #3
Could you explain in detail what the drill mod does? Whats the good thing about this? I am wanting to do this rather then spend extra money on an adjustable master cylinder.
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01-17-2008, 10:31 AM #4
Straight from the sticky I wrote at the top of this section.
To sum it up, basically GM didn’t think things through all the way when selecting the hydraulic lines for your T56. The steel braided line that plugs into the master cylinder has a tiny, tiny hole in it, which causes unnecessary restriction. During a quick, high-rpm shift, fluid cannot get where it needs to go fast enough, so basically it will feel like you are shifting without a clutch. It may be difficult or impossible to shift into 2nd or 3rd, and you may have some problems with the pedal itself.
When performing the drill mod, you remove the master cylinder, separate the line from the cylinder, and drill it out. To visit a site with full information and pictures, click HERE . It will be listed under the Transmission section, along with the adjustable master cylinder install (although you can do the drill mod without changing the master).
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