Help me Pick and deside

[Hot SS]

I am about to order new Stall convertors and new rear tires. I have a 2001 Camaro SS with some bold ons, stock rear end and shiftkit. 330whp 339wtq. I was reading about what kind of stall convertors are the best ones and i want to go with a 3600 SS yank. My car is a DD car but i do not drive it a lot. Maby 250 miles a week. I take it to the track few times a year but not a lot. Now is that convertor good for me? and how about the tires? i was thinking about the M/T ET Street radials, is that good for street or is there anything better? If i get this two things, would i need to worry about my rearend going out or anything els breaking on me? i am kinda new in this but im reading a lot about diff things on this site and trying to learn more. thx

[mghawk57]

Talk to John at Fuddle Racing - real information - real prices - best convertors and best service - I have bought 2 now

[slims00ls1z28]

Good choice in stall but you will really need to look into a rear end if you launch it on slicks.

[Hot SS]

Yah i talked to speed inc and thy saied that my rearend would be fine even if i had around 400rwhp, but i was reading some post on here and a lot of people say that it wont hold up. I picked the 3600 yank cuz a lot of people are happy with is driving everyday. i would go with a 3200 but its same money and if i get 3600 would it be that much of a diff for DD??? thx for helping

[Hot SS]

Good choice in stall but you will really need to look into a rear end if you launch it on slicks.

hey thx for the help. so the Yank 3600 wont give me any problems for DD and its a good DD conv. ?

[vetteemt]

3600 should be fine if I every have to replace my converter I'll probably go to 3600 from my 3200. Also you might want to have the car tuned after the stall converter change; the factory torque management program seems not higher stall converters.

[Hot SS]

3600 should be fine if I every have to replace my converter I'll probably go to 3600 from my 3200. Also you might want to have the car tuned after the stall converter change; the factory torque management program seems not higher stall converters.

o i didnt kno that.....what kind of tune? like a dyno tune again? and anything els i should get?? i have a transcooler already. and how about the tires? is taht a good choice? thx man

[shady milkman]

you dont need a dyno tune..but they need to edit..or remove tq/managment and lift your shift points or you will be bouncing of the limiter. also one thing you should look into is hardened pushrods...if you raise your shift points the stock push rods dont like anything to much higher then stock shift points...at WOT...just something to think about. also the 10 bolt on average will not hold up well to hard launches with DRs..its not the hp that kills the 10 bolt..its the tq.

[vetteemt]

you dont need a dyno tune..but they need to edit..or remove tq/managment and lift your shift points or you will be bouncing of the limiter. also one thing you should look into is hardened pushrods...if you raise your shift points the stock push rods dont like anything to much higher then stock shift points...at WOT...just something to think about. also the 10 bolt on average will not hold up well to hard launches with DRs..its not the hp that kills the 10 bolt..its the tq.

Good thinking about the pushrods. Just something else to think about if you do the pushrods. Pending on how many miles you have on the car and if you want to spend the extra money, a new set of valve springs and titanium retainer and locks are cheap valve float insurance. Any weight you can reduce out of the valve train the better, personally I have the Patriot gold spring and TI retainers, and Comp Cams harden Chrome-Moly push rods. If you are going to run DR on a 10bolt start saving your money for a 12bolt, 9Inch, or Dana60 rearend because after some time you will break the 10bolt. One thing that helps 10bolts survive a little longer is a Rearend Girdle. I recommend the TA Performance rearend girdle with the main cap stud kit. This helps prevent the rear gear and main caps from moving around during extreme loading. It also gives you a drain plug with makes rearend fluid changes easier.

For DR, I have a friend that’s been running BFG DR on his Chevelle 502 SS and he likes them. I’ve also heard that the Nitto DR are not bad either.

[Hot SS]

i have 33K miles on my car. o wow i didnt kno u have to do all this stuff if u want to get a stall conv. and i rather wait and save my money for a 9inch and then put my conv. and DR's. i have the money for the conv. and tires but i dont have the money for the rear end and push rods. so you think i should wait till i get the money and put the stuff all in same time? or i can start with the stall and tires but take it easy? thx for the help guys

[vetteemt]

Well I still have my factory 10bolt with a TA girdle, but I have BFG G-force TA KDW for tires. With 75K on the car the rearend is still holding on. So I say you can do the converter and not the rearend if you don't put on DR. Deleting the torque management is a must, the push rods are not a must but are pretty close to being tho. With out the push rods, springs, and retainers I would not want to rev the engine any higher then factory redline.

[Hot SS]

Well I still have my factory 10bolt with a TA girdle, but I have BFG G-force TA KDW for tires. With 75K on the car the rearend is still holding on. So I say you can do the converter and not the rearend if you don't put on DR. Deleting the torque management is a must, the push rods are not a must but are pretty close to being tho. With out the push rods, springs, and retainers I would not want to rev the engine any higher then factory redline.

yah that makes since...i think im going to save my money for 2 more months and i can get the rearend and conv. and the tires, then ill see what i can do about the pushrods and stuff...cuz the laber would be a lot for the pushrods right?

[shady milkman]

yah that makes since...i think im going to save my money for 2 more months and i can get the rearend and conv. and the tires, then ill see what i can do about the pushrods and stuff...cuz the laber would be a lot for the pushrods right?

only need to remove the top end..not that hard or long.

[vetteemt]

I can't remember what LS1speed charged for the cam and valvetrain, but check around if you buy the rearend and converter from someone they may give you a good price for parts and labor on the pushrods. Call Ls1speed and see what their price well be for the parts and labor.

To change pushrods all you have to do is remove the valve covers, then the rockerarms and pull out the old push rods. Install the new pushrods and then install the rockerarms and valvecovers. It should not take a shop more then a few hours to change them. It can be done at home if you have someone that has installed rocker arms before and knows how properly tighten them down. The back cylinders are a little hard to get to because they are under the dash lip in the engine bay.

[Hot SS]

ok cool thx for the info. im like 1 hour and 15 min away from speed inc. ill give them a call when im ready to see how much thy charge. thers also a shop 5 min from my house and thy work on LSx's and thy are good, thy did my tune and ill see how much thy charge also. the shop is called Val's. but thx for the help guys

[vetteemt]

I always try to keep it local first, but here in Iowa there are not many that work on, let alone tune a LSX engine. Ls1speed closest for me and I’ve always had good luck with them. Good luck on the project!

[Hot SS]

[QUOTE=vetteemt;1304691]I always try to keep it local first, but here in Iowa there are not many that work on, let alone tune a LSX engine. Ls1speed closest for me and I’ve always had good luck with them. Good luck on the project![/QUOT

ok thx a lot man for helping

[nhraformula]

Yah i talked to speed inc and thy saied that my rearend would be fine even if i had around 400rwhp, but i was reading some post on here and a lot of people say that it wont hold up. I picked the 3600 yank cuz a lot of people are happy with is driving everyday. i would go with a 3200 but its same money and if i get 3600 would it be that much of a diff for DD??? thx for helping

good pick for a stall. larry(speed inc) suggested the stall i have in my car (3000) but im more than happy with it.

as for tires, get the BFG DRs.

get a conveter tune, its like 125 bucks and needed

[nhraformula]

Well I still have my factory 10bolt with a TA girdle, but I have BFG G-force TA KDW for tires. With 75K on the car the rearend is still holding on. So I say you can do the converter and not the rearend if you don't put on DR. Deleting the torque management is a must, the push rods are not a must but are pretty close to being tho. With out the push rods, springs, and retainers I would not want to rev the engine any higher then factory redline.

hes not camming the car, and its not like they will raise the shift points to some sick level. i see zero reason for any valve train work at this point with his car.
ive been driving around on DRs for a number of years with no problems. DRs still have tire slip unlike slicks.

[Hot SS]

good pick for a stall. larry(speed inc) suggested the stall i have in my car (3000) but im more than happy with it.

as for tires, get the BFG DRs.

get a conveter tune, its like 125 bucks and needed

wait so i dont have to do pushrods or any other stuff if i want to get the 3600???? all i need is the tune?

[Hot SS]

also what would be the diff betwen the BFG dr's and the M/T's?

[nhraformula]

wait so i dont have to do pushrods or any other stuff if i want to get the 3600???? all i need is the tune?

no reason to do any valvetrain work for a stall converter.
for a stall, youll need a shift kit, cooler and tuning.
the BFG tires are a little less sticky and are more rear end friendly than the M/Ts

[Hot SS]

no reason to do any valvetrain work for a stall converter.
for a stall, youll need a shift kit, cooler and tuning.
the BFG tires are a little less sticky and are more rear end friendly than the M/Ts

yah thats what i though at first and then i asked and yah.....but i have transgo shiftkit in already and i have the cooler so all i need is the yank 3600 and the tune. thx for ur help

[Hot SS]

o one more thing....this conv., is it going to help me from a roll also?

[shady milkman]

o one more thing....this conv., is it going to help me from a roll also?

well the tq converter locks up past 45...so as long as the roll is below 45.

[Hot SS]

well the tq converter locks up past 45...so as long as the roll is below 45.

is that on the yank ss conv? any conv. out there that can hit hard from a roll lil higher then 45?

[shady milkman]

is that on the yank ss conv? any conv. out there that can hit hard from a roll lil higher then 45?

dont quote me but i dont believe so.

[nhraformula]

is that on the yank ss conv? any conv. out there that can hit hard from a roll lil higher then 45?

lets say im driving along the highway doing 80 and my RPMs are at 2200.
if i gun it, the car stalls right up to 3k (thats my stall speed).
anytime your under you stall rpm and gun it, it will shoot right up to its rpm.

[Hot SS]

o i c....that makes more since...so itll be good from a roll. i was confused by the lock up he was talking about....

[shady milkman]

lets say im driving along the highway doing 80 and my RPMs are at 2200.
if i gun it, the car stalls right up to 3k (thats my stall speed).
anytime your under you stall rpm and gun it, it will shoot right up to its rpm.

i thought stalls all lock up at 45mph

[02WS6dream]

No expert...but i think what he's trying to say is-yes, they do lock up at 45 in overdrive, but when you punch it it shifts out of overdrive; so unlocks, to a low(er) gear. so if you're cruisin at 45-50 in overdrive (locked) and punch it, it will shift down and always rev up to at least 3000+ rpms with a stall converter for a better 'punch'.

[Hot SS]

ic....that makes more since....so it really dose help you from a roll if i get the 3600 cuz itll go from 3600 when i punch it....thx man

[shady milkman]

No expert...but i think what he's trying to say is-yes, they do lock up at 45 in overdrive, but when you punch it it shifts out of overdrive; so unlocks, to a low(er) gear. so if you're cruisin at 45-50 in overdrive (locked) and punch it, it will shift down and always rev up to at least 3000+ rpms with a stall converter for a better 'punch'.

ahhhhh :yup: ok

[nhraformula]

i thought stalls all lock up at 45mph

they lock up at whatever spped the tuner sets.

mine locks up at 43 mph. if i pin the pedal, it downshifts into second and the stall kicks in for a quick second