Rear End Problems???

[TopForm11]

I have an 02 TA WS6. I currently have a 3.73 motive gear, SLP lid, and Exhaust. The tires I have do not stick at all and I have been looking at the Nitto NT555R Drag Radials. I have been told that they are pretty sticky tires, my question is if I dead hook when I launch the car does anyone think I will have problems breaking the rear end???

[Y2KPewterSS]

Its very possible you will break the rear with a good launch.

[Jays00ss]

^^^^ Yep 10 bolt is a pyle, put stickies on and you are looking for a grenade like bang.

[Fran D]

If you're an auto, it could last a while. If you're an M6, it may eventually break...either ten years from now or the first time out.

[D.Rigsby]

If you're an auto, it could last a while. If you're an M6, it may eventually break...either ten years from now or the first time out.

Fran D, Question? I have a 10 bolt 3.73 auto P/U Truck. Want to go with an 4.10 instead. Should I go with a 12 bolt or stay with my 10 bolt?
D.Rigsby, N.Texas.

[Fran D]

Fran D, Question? I have a 10 bolt 3.73 auto P/U Truck. Want to go with an 4.10 instead. Should I go with a 12 bolt or stay with my 10 bolt?
D.Rigsby, N.Texas.
Well, should is one of those prescriptions that I am hesitant to make for other people. It all depends on how heavy you are, how much power you're making, how much converter you have, how sticky the tires are and the level of ambiguity/maintenance you're willing to live with.

Let me tell you of my own situation. I'm 3500 lbs. race weight and an M6 that hasn't hit any harder, yet, than a 1.88 60' (that was a 12.68 and the car is just touching on 112 MPH in great air). I'm getting about 120 runs on my 10-bolt with 4.10s, before I need to address it to keep it from exploding. Typically, a carrier or pinion bearing will start groaning indicating it's time for a rebuild. It takes me half a day and less than $200 to freshen it up for another 120 runs (~ a season and a half). To me, I can't justify the $2500 for a 12-bolt or 9" at this stage. Yes, I may change my tune as I add power, launch harder and the breakage frequency increases, but I'm not there yet. If my car was an auto, I'd probably never think about another rear.

I know that this doesn't tell you what you should do, but it can give you a data point for the basis of your decision. Another way to look at it is going from 3.73s to 4.10s is not a huge leap (~10% more gear) and changing the R&P is relatively inexpensive compared to a new rear. If the 10-bolt eventually fails (which is almost preordained), nothing stops you from upgrading down the road.

[Ryans99LS1]

Last time at the track, I dead hooked all night and nothing broke... but now my posi is shot and only one wheel spins. Im an auto with 3.73s, DRs but no stall also. It whined somewhat before that track night but after that SOB was cryin. Needless to say before the car comes back out, im putting a new carrier in.

[D.Rigsby]

Well, should is one of those prescriptions that I am hesitant to make for other people. It all depends on how heavy you are, how much power you're making, how much converter you have, how sticky the tires are and the level of ambiguity/maintenance you're willing to live with.

Let me tell you of my own situation. I'm 3500 lbs. race weight and an M6 that hasn't hit any harder, yet, than a 1.88 60' (that was a 12.68 and the car is just touching on 112 MPH in great air). I'm getting about 120 runs on my 10-bolt with 4.10s, before I need to address it to keep it from exploding. Typically, a carrier or pinion bearing will start groaning indicating it's time for a rebuild. It takes me half a day and less than $200 to freshen it up for another 120 runs (~ a season and a half). To me, I can't justify the $2500 for a 12-bolt or 9" at this stage. Yes, I may change my tune as I add power, launch harder and the breakage frequency increases, but I'm not there yet. If my car was an auto, I'd probably never think about another rear.

I know that this doesn't tell you what you should do, but it can give you a data point for the basis of your decision. Another way to look at it is going from 3.73s to 4.10s is not a huge leap (~10% more gear) and changing the R&P is relatively inexpensive compared to a new rear. If the 10-bolt eventually fails (which is almost preordained), nothing stops you from upgrading down the road.


Fran D, thanks for your input. D. Rigsby

[Orange99z28]

hey fran could you expand on the 200 dollar rebuild of the 10-bolt? money is a big issue for me so i'm not gonna be slappin a tricked out 12-bolt in like most of these rich mofos

thanks

[Fran D]

hey fran could you expand on the 200 dollar rebuild of the 10-bolt? money is a big issue for me so i'm not gonna be slappin a tricked out 12-bolt in like most of these rich mofos

thanks
It's nothing trick or exotic. For around $100, you can search around and get a master rebuild kit that includes all of the bearings, shims, gaskets, etc., to freshen up the rear. The pinion and carrier bearings take a pounding in these rears and are usually the first things to fail. However, they usually signal their impending failure by whining or howling. For around $200, you can find some guys on the internet selling a ring and pinion together with the rebuild kit. These are typically the cheaper Motive gear sets, but people leaving harder and running faster than I am don't seem to have many problems with them. I know one guy running a sale (I think it's about $215 for the package) now, but I don't know if he's a sponsor of this forum. PM me if you want the link.

A good cheap upgrade, for ~$30, is to replace the crush collar with a solid pinion spacer. I find that the crush collar is probably the weakest of the weak in these rears. If you're an M6 hitting relatively hard, the constant pounding just opens up the clearance on these bushings until there's almost no preload left on the pinion bearings. Plus, the extra slop allows the pinion to take a run at the ring gear, which, if it doesn't pop the gear, takes out the carrier, or if you're lucky, one of the carrier bearings. If you've ever worked with the crush collar, you'll know how insanely easy it is to over crush it once you get past the initial torque required to start its collapse. It's no wonder they don't survive under any abuse.

Hope that helps.

[jcws6]

A solid pinion spacer can be found at Summit (RAT-4111) for $16.95. That sounds like great advice, so I'm picking one up for my upcoming gear install.