Rear end question??

[Camaroride32]

I was thinking about getting my rear end done because i want to change the rear end ratio to 4.10 and i was reading as long as your not trying to push 500+ hp ur stock 10 bolt would be the best thing and save you some money. So I was going to change the axles, get the tubes welded, and get inside rebuilt. But i was curious if the torsen differential is any good and have it rebuild or go for an aftermarket company like eaton? Or if you have any ideas... let me know...

[Jays00ss]

Don't waste your money on a 10 bolt. Rule of thumb is to upgrade not rebuild.

[Camaroride32]

But from what I read... I dont need to spend the 2500 for an aftermarket rear end because its bulkier and may slow the car down lil bit from the extra weight, though its stronger, isent needed unless ur gonna push 500+ hp. It would also cost me about 700$ cheaper just to get mine rebuilt.

[M-Ten]

I really think a lot of it depends on how you drive the car too..

[Camaroride32]

ya... its mostly a daily driver car... just romp on it every once in a while... and figured i wanted a little bit more bottom end power...

[Camaroride32]

and i really dont feel like dishing out 2500 for a rear end when my car is a high milage car.. and i figure once the motor decides to go that could be a start on a rebuild motor

[M-Ten]

Yeah honestly I think you should be fine if you're not dumping the clutch at like 3-5 k lol.. how much would all that stuff cost you to do?

[Camaroride32]

I think everything is gonna run me about 1200 if i have to buy a differential. If i dont have to buy a differential its gonna run me about 800. I work at a bodyshop and im capable of doing all the work myself. That why i think its cheaper for me to do my rear end then having to buy an aftermarket unit.

[rc74racer]

I think everything is gonna run me about 1200 if i have to buy a differential. If i dont have to buy a differential its gonna run me about 800. I work at a bodyshop and im capable of doing all the work myself. That why i think its cheaper for me to do my rear end then having to buy an aftermarket unit.

That's half the price of a new 9in. I had mine done for 600 and so far it's held up great but i'm kind of wishing I had just replaced it. 10 bolts are real weak and it doesn't matter if you have 300 or 500 it could go.

[INMY01TA]

Putting nice axels in a 10 bolt is a dumb idea. If you want 4:10s in it go ahead. If your not gonna drag race it all you'll be fine. If you drag it, it'll break whether there's stock axels or Mosers in their. Considering you can pick up used 10 bolts for $100-$300 any way I'd just stick the gears in and be done. Fwiw, I put 4:10s in my 10 bolt years ago and ended up buying a 12 bolt later anyway so I don't recomend putting any money at all in it.

[Camaroride32]

I was just gonna put axles to try and make it lil bit stronger and then weld the tubes on it.

[Firebirdjones]

Don't waste money on it. From the looks of your avatar,,,,you need an upgraded rearend for sure :bino:

Those 10 bolts break under stock power,,,even with street tires.

Spending $1200 on a stock 10 bolt I would never do,,,,you are half way there to a nice 12 bolt or 9 inch,,,save some more coin and do it right.

As far as the factory torsens go,,,in my opinion they are junk. They create a ton of metal shaving in the rear,,,,which travels around in the rearend and can wreak havic on all the bearings. Everyone I have ever serviced had silver metallic floating around.

Not they they are weak or anything, but those torsens just create too much metal to suite my tastes,,,,if running one I suggest changing the rearend fluid every 10-15,000 miles.

I use Eaton, proven clutch style unit that GM has used for 40 years. Easy to service and rebuild as well.

[M-Ten]

how many of you have actually broken your 10 bolt?

[Firebirdjones]

I have twice with stock tires. You get on a track sticky enough and it's a time bomb.

[M-Ten]

and what rpm were you launching it at?

[Firebirdjones]

and what rpm were you launching it at?

It's been a long while back so giving an exact number would be wrong on my part,,,,but I can tell you on a sticky track you are forced to raise the rpm to a point where the motor doesn't bog anymore. It wasn't much rpm compared to what I am used to with another car,,,,guessing around 3,000 or so. I went 4 rounds that day and driver side axle broke. It was a cheap repair so I fixed it. About 1 month later at same track on the first pass it broke the posi unit in 3 pieces,,,some damage may have been done when the axle broke earlier,,,,and it only took one pass to finish,,,it's hard to say. But with just rock hard street tires I wasn't impressed with these 7.5's. This was just with my car I had at the time.

It wasn't until a year later when I nearly wrecked someone elses car that I vowed to never race with these 7.5's again.

This was an LT1 6 speed car with a lingenfelter 355, and it was an animal for a little motor, running 11.60's that day at 117 mph, with 4.10's in the stock rear and drag radials. He tossed me the keys and said make a pass.
Everything was good until I went for 3rd gear, I heard an explosion and it felt like the rear of the car jumped in the air. At this point I am already going 60-70 mph maybe??? This rearend literally exploded shoving the driveshaft into the trans and busting the back of the transmission off, spilling tranny fluid and gear oil everywhere, which got on the back tires and sent me on a thrill ride towards the wall. I was lucky I didn't wreck the guy in the other lane as well. This was back when new 9 inch and 12 bolt housings were in their infancy, that car has since been upgraded,,,thankgod.

With an LS1 it's so easy to make great power with very little bolt ons,,,even just a camshaft can have these cars in the 11's,,,,for me it's a no brainer to upgrade the rearend first thing. Start at the back of the car first and work your way forward. It's safer and actually cheaper in the long run. Thats just me though.

[Camaroride32]

thats not my car in the avatar by the way... its just a clip i found that looked cool so i put it. I dont abuse my car like that. If anyone has any more imput let me know. I just dont feel like spending double for a rear end for someone elses work... when i can do it myself.....

[M-Ten]

Well, what I would do is just not build it up, but take care of it.. don't abuse it.. and just put more money together for a different rear end.

That's what I'm doing, gonna hold out as long as I can on the rear and just treat it nice :yup:

[Camaroride32]

ive got the money if i want to do it... just dont wanna throw money away and in 6 months be like wtf i should have just got mine done for half money and had the extra money put into somethin else.

[djvaly]

go 12 bolt or better like Moser if you plan on going to the track a lot and making big power.

[Camaroride32]

Thanks for all the info everyone... i guess ill just wait and do the 12 bolt... Do you think moser or strange. I know my dad has a moser in his chevelle and hes happy w/ it but w/ f-bodies aint it more work for a moser vs a strange?

[djvaly]

Moser 9 is a bit tougher than 12 bolt. in my opinion.

[Firebirdjones]

thats not my car in the avatar by the way... its just a clip i found that looked cool so i put it. I dont abuse my car like that. If anyone has any more imput let me know. I just dont feel like spending double for a rear end for someone elses work... when i can do it myself.....

If you can set one up yourself,,,then buy the bare housing from supplier of your choice,,,then purchase the parts you need seperate.

It's the way I do it. I actually prefer this method because I really don't trust someone else to set it up properly.

It's a little bit cheaper, not much,(depends on what you choose for internals),,,but you get to pick and choose the parts that you prefer inside the rearend instead of being relegated to whatever the supplier likes to use. It's an option I would take a good look at before plunking a grand down on a 7.5