School this cobra owner about LS1s please!!

[Musclefan21]

I am planning t sell my cobra soon and I have 97 LT1 to drive around and I wanna buy an LS1 in the spring.

Now, i wanna know what it takes for an LS1 to run mid-low 11s and trap around 120+mph (just like my cobra) without nitrous.

-what are common problems on LS1 cars?
-How many rwhp stock long block can handle? and how many rwhp stock shortblock can handle?
-how much does aftermarket heads and cam costs?
-if i do H/C/I + all the bolts on, would I have to built my motor?

-I will buy an LS1 around probably 60-70k miles on, would it be safe to do some major mods and still be safe?

-how long these motors last with H/C/I + bolts on?

and some other basic stuff, I need somebody to school me please.

thanks!!!:nana:

[tonyjnjz]

are u planning on an fbody or say a used z06? much better car to start with to run low/mid 11s..nearly does it stock with sticky tires ..head/cam/long tubes your there

[rajiv1998]

[QUOTE=doodad;1129839]I am planning t sell my cobra soon and I have 97 LT1 to drive around and I wanna buy an LS1 in the spring.

Now, i wanna know what it takes for an LS1 to run mid-low 11s and trap around 120+mph (just like my cobra) without nitrous.

-what are common problems on LS1 cars?
-How many rwhp stock long block can handle? and how many rwhp stock shortblock can handle?
-how much does aftermarket heads and cam costs?
-if i do H/C/I + all the bolts on, would I have to built my motor?

-I will buy an LS1 around probably 60-70k miles on, would it be safe to do some major mods and still be safe?

-how long these motors last with H/C/I + bolts on?


There are no major problems with the LS1. The most common problem is the 10bolt snapping with lots of power, or even in stock trim. The trans is good for about 500hp or so, but mine went out before that. Heads and cam differ greatly. The average cam would be around $400-450 and heads can go anywhere from $1000 to $3000 or more. AFR make some of the best heads on the market so u might wanna check thme out if $ aint a problem. U can mod the hell out of them at any milage. There are ppl with like 150k miles spraying and running blowers on their cars. U wull need full bolt ons, H/C and a stall converter if u wanna trap high. However iv seen ppl trap well under 122and still run 11's. DAM never in my dreams would i have thought i would see a termi onwer sell his car and buy an LS1. Theres nothing better than the sound of a H/C LS1 sitting at a light, but the whine of the blower on the cobra makes me shivver. Good luck and i hope i helped. Wait for Mr. Luos or another person to come on and go over any doubts u have with them.

[Musclefan21]

are u planning on an fbody or say a used z06? much better car to start with to run low/mid 11s..nearly does it stock with sticky tires ..head/cam/long tubes your there

i wanna a cheap fun car. my cobra already ran low 11s but she gotta go so i can save some $$ for some other personal things. so a z06 would be out of my price range. I will probably buy a T/A for around 13-14k or cheaper when I am ready.

[Musclefan21]

[QUOTE=doodad;1129839]I am planning t sell my cobra soon and I have 97 LT1 to drive around and I wanna buy an LS1 in the spring.

Now, i wanna know what it takes for an LS1 to run mid-low 11s and trap around 120+mph (just like my cobra) without nitrous.

-what are common problems on LS1 cars?
-How many rwhp stock long block can handle? and how many rwhp stock shortblock can handle?
-how much does aftermarket heads and cam costs?
-if i do H/C/I + all the bolts on, would I have to built my motor?

-I will buy an LS1 around probably 60-70k miles on, would it be safe to do some major mods and still be safe?

-how long these motors last with H/C/I + bolts on?


There are no major problems with the LS1. The most common problem is the 10bolt snapping with lots of power, or even in stock trim. The trans is good for about 500hp or so, but mine went out before that. Heads and cam differ greatly. The average cam would be around $400-450 and heads can go anywhere from $1000 to $3000 or more. AFR make some of the best heads on the market so u might wanna check thme out if $ aint a problem. U can mod the hell out of them at any milage. There are ppl with like 150k miles spraying and running blowers on their cars. U wull need full bolt ons, H/C and a stall converter if u wanna trap high. However iv seen ppl trap well under 122and still run 11's. DAM never in my dreams would i have thought i would see a termi onwer sell his car and buy an LS1. Theres nothing better than the sound of a H/C LS1 sitting at a light, but the whine of the blower on the cobra makes me shivver. Good luck and i hope i helped. Wait for Mr. Luos or another person to come on and go over any doubts u have with them.

Thanks for the input bro:)

whine is great. always turns head. I have always wanted an f-body that will lop like crazy and turns head at stop lights. Oh boy, Somebody buy this cobra!!! :D

[rajiv1998]

[QUOTE=rajiv1998;1129859]

Thanks for the input bro:)

whine is great. always turns head. I have always wanted an f-body that will lop like crazy and turns head at stop lights. Oh boy, Somebody buy this cobra!!! :D

I would take that things off ur hands in a heartbeat if i sold my car. How much u asking?? The first thing i would do is send that blower over to stiegemeier!!

[Musclefan21]

[QUOTE=doodad;1129890]

I would take that things off ur hands in a heartbeat if i sold my car. How much u asking?? The first thing i would do is send that blower over to stiegemeier!!

I am giving my car away basicly. stock, 46k miles, (bought at 33.500miles, pullied at 38.800miles and returned back to stock at 46k miles) comes with ford 5 yr / 75k miles power train warranty. it has no issues and runs like dream! asking 22k.:nana:

[FuhBreezeE]

$1100 heads, $340 cam. :yup:

[Musclefan21]

$1100 heads, $340 cam. :yup:

and then tune?? and can I do heads, cam, intake, tune around 450-500rwhp and still have stock motor in 1 piece?

[FuhBreezeE]

and then tune?? and can I do heads, cam, intake, tune around 450-500rwhp and still have stock motor in 1 piece?

I know you're going with a t56 tranny, so that will help the rwhp. You won't need forged internals till over 500rwhp, atleast that's what most say.
Tune from lg - $540, tune + resonators install from RPM Motorsports= $300 :hmm:
Fast 90/90 combo was $1k

[Musclefan21]

also i wanna ask this, is there any clutch mods for these cars? my cobra has clutch cable, etc. i think T/As are hyrualic or something. so how do you adjust your clutch? if i get one, i would like to adjust my clutch so it will engage at the top instead of at the bottom or in the middle. anyway to do this?

[FuhBreezeE]

also i wanna ask this, is there any clutch mods for these cars? my cobra has clutch cable, etc. i think T/As are hyrualic or something. so how do you adjust your clutch? if i get one, i would like to adjust my clutch so it will engage at the top instead of at the bottom or in the middle. anyway to do this?

Have to ask someone else, I stick with auto's :dunno:

[greatwhiteZ28]

[QUOTE=rajiv1998;1129894]

I am giving my car away basicly. stock, 46k miles, (bought at 33.500miles, pullied at 38.800miles and returned back to stock at 46k miles) comes with ford 5 yr / 75k miles power train warranty. it has no issues and runs like dream! asking 22k.:nana:

low 11's with just a pully...... woow they are a beast. but i love the look of fobodys. glad your looking for a ls1

[440 rwhp trans am]

$1100 heads, $340 cam. :yup:

1100 for the heads is cheap!!! im looking at 2700

[FuhBreezeE]

1100 for the heads is cheap!!! im looking at 2700

I have a hook-up :D

[Musclefan21]

[QUOTE=doodad;1129939]

low 11's with just a pully...... woow they are a beast. but i love the look of fobodys. glad your looking for a ls1

they are definetely beast! i beat a bolts on 99 camaro with 4.10 gears, stall and 150 dry shot with only pulley, intake, midpipe & catback:yup:

to be honest, a cobra looks very good. a WS6 looks very mean and a cobra looks very sexy!

[nhraformula]

224/224 cam, ls6 intake, pacesetter headers, 3000 stall, volant cai, bfg tires and stock 3.23 look in sig at times.
my car is a very mild set up. with a set of heads and a slighty bigger stall, i would be able to do mid 11s all day.

there are no real bad problems with LS1s.
beat on them just like any other car they will fall apart.

[INMY01TA]

With a big enough cam like a G5X4 you don't need heads to accomplish this.

[FuhBreezeE]

With a big enough cam like a G5X4 you don't need heads to accomplish this.

Cam has a LOT of lift....well over.600. Issues with the heads...

[INMY01TA]

Cam has a LOT of lift....well over.600. Issues with the heads...What issues? I know a few people running it with stock heads.

[FuhBreezeE]

What issues? I know a few people running it with stock heads.

Uh-huh. Those heads have been cut to fit then.

[Musclefan21]

beat on them just like any other car they will fall apart.

eventually cars will break but some last longer than others. I wish i could keep my cobra, damn thing will not break even if you beat them to death.

there is a local cobra here 80k miles whippled since 10k miles. 600rwhp / 600rwtq and that guy took his car almost every weekend to track, running 10.5s and they have yet to even open valve covers or touch transmission. I have buddy with 460-475 cobra 80k miles as well and i have never seen anybody beat on a car like that. he beats the heck out of it and the car has yet to break anything. I know LS1s are not like that but i assume bolts on LS1s will last pretty long too.

I wanna get an LS1 cuz i can find one fairly cheap and they look badass!:yup:

[ExStanger]

Hey doodad wanna trade? I think mine might trap 120. 98 Formula hardtop, 64k. Very clean inside and out. 383ci LS1, forged bottom end, Vortech T trim, aftercooler, built 4L60E, Moser 12 bolt, full BMR suspension, Baer Eradispeed rotors, way too much to list. Professionally built by RMCR in Colorado Springs. Believe me it does sound mean at a red light. You will fear no Terminator.

[Musclefan21]

Hey doodad wanna trade? I think mine might trap 120. 98 Formula hardtop, 64k. Very clean inside and out. 383ci LS1, forged bottom end, Vortech T trim, aftercooler, built 4L60E, Moser 12 bolt, full BMR suspension, Baer Eradispeed rotors, way too much to list. Professionally built by RMCR in Colorado Springs. Believe me it does sound mean at a red light. You will fear no Terminator.

man i would love to. even though i dont like formulas but i need to sell the car and find a cheap LS1 i dont know how cheap yours is but i am pretty sure it s above my budget.

[nhraformula]

Uh-huh. Those heads have been cut to fit then.

no they dont. one of my buddies has that cam on stock heads

[SexyAssFormula]

man i would love to. even though i dont like formulas but i need to sell the car and find a cheap LS1 i dont know how cheap yours is but i am pretty sure it s above my budget.

Why no love for Formulas?:(

[Musclefan21]

Why no love for Formulas?:(

Ii can't stand the rear end of formulas. without trans am bumper and that sexy spoiler, it looks weird to me. I have a formula too but compare to trans am, mine looks ugly. but some likes formulas better.

also, i love the fron middle fog lights on trans ams

[FuhBreezeE]

no they dont. one of my buddies has that cam on stock heads

Call LG and tell them that, told me there's no way to do it w/o messing with the heads, but hey, what do they know? Not like it's their cam or anything :rolleyes:

[2000T/A Guru]

Wit ha rear end, 4.10s, drag radials, and cam lsx intake manifold i have seen F-bodys run mid 11s with stock heads. Add a 125 shot which i ahve seen people do on stock bottom ends, make around 500-550rwhp and have a low 11 high 10 second car. You could just throw a supercharger on it make around 440rwhp on stock motor with bolt ons and a nice rear end and run low 11s. With heads and cam bolts ons rear end gears, sticky tires i have seen vert f-bodys run low 11s, so a hard top or T-top weighs 100lbs less could do the same or a little better.

[Musclefan21]

Wit ha rear end, 4.10s, drag radials, and cam lsx intake manifold i have seen F-bodys run mid 11s with stock heads. Add a 125 shot which i ahve seen people do on stock bottom ends, make around 500-550rwhp and have a low 11 high 10 second car. You could just throw a supercharger on it make around 440rwhp on stock motor with bolt ons and a nice rear end and run low 11s. With heads and cam bolts ons rear end gears, sticky tires i have seen vert f-bodys run low 11s, so a hard top or T-top weighs 100lbs less could do the same or a little better.

all I need is around 450-450rwhp and after that, i will take care of some mid-low 11 sec slips. so H/C/I + bolts on = around 450rwhp? 450rwtq?

[2000T/A Guru]

To do mid 11s, if you go with a new clutch, rear end with 4.10s, drag radials, and a cam swap i have seen people run mid 11s, around 390rwhp-410rwhp, with a lsx intake amnifold and heads, you could do low 11s high tens if your a good driver, with a little weight lose i have seen cam only f-bodys run 10s.

[ExStanger]

400rwhp from a clutch and cam swap only?

[2000T/A Guru]

Well, im of course including bolt ons, headers, catback, lid. With a cam swap and valve train upgrade there are a couple guys on this site making over 400rwhp.

[ExStanger]

To do mid 11s, if you go with a new clutch, rear end with 4.10s, drag radials, and a cam swap i have seen people run mid 11s, around 390rwhp-410rwhp, with a lsx intake amnifold and heads, you could do low 11s high tens if your a good driver, with a little weight lose i have seen cam only f-bodys run 10s.

400rwhp from a clutch and cam swap? Cam only running 10s? If that is the case I think I might can dip into the 7s with mine -j/k. Don't get me wrong I bought mine already built so I do not know how much a cam swap is worth.

[nhraformula]

Call LG and tell them that, told me there's no way to do it w/o messing with the heads, but hey, what do they know? Not like it's their cam or anything :rolleyes:

he had that cam put in and the car is running.
i know for a fact the heads are stock outside of behive springs and hardened pushrods

[Musclefan21]

so how about clutch adjustment on these cars guys? that is the most important thing for me. I like my clutch engages AT THE TOP, not in the middle or at the bottom. any kind of modifications for clutch adjustment.

I HAVE TO own a black or dark blue LS1 WS.6. i just saw one on the way, and i was gonna rear end the lady in front of me!

[shady milkman]

ok well i'll be straight forward with you..while the ls1 is a great powerplant..there are some probs. ls1's are notorious for piston slap...this is caused by the wall to head clearance problems..once the engine warms up it no longer slaps..this was fixed in the ls2 + designs..they moved to a floating pin design. our pushrods also hate rpms higher then 6250..they will bend and cause problems. LS1's are known for leaving pins in the oil pan..i cant remember exactly what pins they are..but its around the rocker area..they are cheap and not hard to fix. ls1's oil pumps are also known to give out..if you are ever changing the cam..then change the oil pump to a ls6 oil pump. Also known for belt slip due to the fact that the pulley walls aren't very tall. LS1's are also known for oil in the t/b and the intake manifold..this is due to the fact that the pcv valve has to much vacuum..this can be fixed by switching to a ls6 style pcv..also a reason for this is due to gunk in the oil that causes the seals not to seal properly..there is stuff out there to do this...all in all the ls1 is great and these problems aren't really big.

[shady milkman]

I am planning t sell my cobra soon and I have 97 LT1 to drive around and I wanna buy an LS1 in the spring.

Now, i wanna know what it takes for an LS1 to run mid-low 11s and trap around 120+mph (just like my cobra) without nitrous.

-what are common problems on LS1 cars?
-How many rwhp stock long block can handle? and how many rwhp stock shortblock can handle?
-how much does aftermarket heads and cam costs?
-if i do H/C/I + all the bolts on, would I have to built my motor?

-I will buy an LS1 around probably 60-70k miles on, would it be safe to do some major mods and still be safe?

-how long these motors last with H/C/I + bolts on?

and some other basic stuff, I need somebody to school me please.

thanks!!!:nana:


when they are stock or lightly modded they usually last for ups of 150000 miles. the blocks can handle a good amount of power...but they are aluminum and dont have forged internals so its hit and miss..many of the serious power makers around here go to iron blocks. it will however be safe to mod when they have 60k+ miles...actually many times the ls1's make peak power once they reach 50k on the clock

[INMY01TA]

Uh-huh. Those heads have been cut to fit then.I don't believe so, how would milling heads create more clearance. :think:

[35thz28camaro]

http://wiki.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187330

these cars are running stock long blocks with just a cam

[Musclefan21]

nobody said anything about clutch question i asked twice already :(

[shady milkman]

so how about clutch adjustment on these cars guys? that is the most important thing for me. I like my clutch engages AT THE TOP, not in the middle or at the bottom. any kind of modifications for clutch adjustment.

I HAVE TO own a black or dark blue LS1 WS.6. i just saw one on the way, and i was gonna rear end the lady in front of me!

well i'm no expert..but the only thing i can think of is to change your slave cylinder...or is it the master cylinder for hydrolics...in 01' i believe they changed the design of the cylinder...also do the drill mod to increase the pressure. thats all i got on that..oh and running those high numbers 450rw..upgrade to a ls7 clutch and a ls2 flywheel..ps the ls2 and ls7 flywheel are the same.

[331stroker]

From a Mustang owner, LS motors rule...
My best friend went from a Cobra to a 99 TA
How ever, they do have money hungry problems..
1st of all, the rear end. It's very weak. It's equivilant to a Ford V-6 (or GM V-6) rear end.
The tranny is awesome but will need a rebuild after 70 to 80 K, if you plan on racing at all. You question the clutch and hydraulics... HAHAHA After 3 clutch setups (Z06, LS-2 with LS7 flywheel, lastly a Centerforce DFX) and several hydraulic parts replacement later under minor racing....
You are asking a touchy question with these guys.
Don't listen to the stock parts BS(Z06 or LS2) They are STOCK parts period. LS- 2/LS-7flywheel was our previous setup before the Centerforce ( I bought the Centerforce setup. I was tired of working on his car). The problem with the stock setups is the center hub on the clutch disc becomes loose and allows the disc to wobble. It is a design flaw. If you go to an after market clutch, the disc hub is solid. Also, the flywheel is balanced with the clutch assy as a set. I thought it was BS at 1st but after checking my friends setup out, it's a fact. I balance heavy industrial turbine rotors for a living and I did my own testing.
If you do some research, you will find articals that you have to send the LS7 flywheel out for balancing before you use it. If you don't, you will not only have clutch disc failure, you will be wearing the front input shaft bearing.
Bottom line, after going to an after market setup, that problem was cured.
Hydraulics???? Stock has been the best. Butt.... If you replace the slave, replace the master... Trust me... It saves headaches of trouble shooting and argueing with every I know it all geru..
Bleeding methods??? That is up in the air. The BS about flipping a seal if you pressure bleed... It's BS.. I have torn 2 of them apart. By design they can not flip.
But I did see the seals pitting real bad which surprised me for a 1 year old slave cyl. Looks to me like the seals are not holding up to brake fluid. Brake fluid is acidic.

They are awesome cars,but I will stick with my 95 blown 331 cast block Mustang with a 8.8 rearend, TKO tranny, cable clutch (Centerforce), daily driver. It might take me more bolt ons but it stays together. When it is a race to the jack stands, LS cars rule too..
Let's see a LS car do wheel stands on a stock rearend. I'll show you an 8.8 that will hold together with the front wheels 6 feet in the air.
My friend is happy with his car (It took a ford guy to work on it) OUCh...
It makes for great racing.. Thats what it's all about...
Cool cars and speed....
Bottom line you can not go wrong. It depends on what year you buy and your driving habits as to what the car will need.
Good luck

[nhraformula]

I don't believe so, how would milling heads create more clearance. :think:

milling off materal= less materal.

[35thz28camaro]

my car has 59k on it, the only thing that has went out is a window motor, its a a4

[danziger]

Factory stock shortblocks will take nearly 600rwhp of abuse with no problems from my personal experience. The block itself is very unlikely to split, nor is the factory crank.
Most people go to iron blocks for: a) cost b) clamping strength for high cylinder-pressure applications c) keep stability at well over 1000rwhp
LS1 engine weaknesses: a) piston ringlands b) rod bolts c) pushrods
LS1 F-body weaknesses: a) 10-bolt b) clutch (especially the 1998-00 cars) c) brake rotors tend to warp d) power window motors puke e) headlight gears on the 'Birds
I would look for a low-mileage example with a blown engine and drop a built 402 in there, but that's just me. There are plenty of H/C packages in the 450+rwhp range, but it will depend on your tolerance of driveability.

[nhraformula]

hay doodad, were both from the more or less same area. when you get your ls1 and want to see how my set up cackles and such, let me know. we could meet up somewhere im sure.

[rajiv1998]

Why dont u just not sell ur cobra for an LS1. Strap a KB 2.2 on their and call it a day. With a KB and bolt ons (supporting mods) u will be pretty much untouchable on the streets and can blow the doors of most LS1's. Hell u have forged internals to so get a 150 shot just incase:)

[Musclefan21]

Why dont u just not sell ur cobra for an LS1. Strap a KB 2.2 on their and call it a day. With a KB and bolt ons (supporting mods) u will be pretty much untouchable on the streets and can blow the doors of most LS1's. Hell u have forged internals to so get a 150 shot just incase:)

it is not that i am selling my cobra for LS1. i am selling my cobra cuz i would like to ssave some money for a while. I won;t get an LS1 right now. it is winter, it would be in the summer. My cobra was already stupid fast with 4 bolts on. ran 11.3 and trapped best of 123mph.

[Musclefan21]

hay doodad, were both from the more or less same area. when you get your ls1 and want to see how my set up cackles and such, let me know. we could meet up somewhere im sure.

sure man. first I gotta sell this thing and later on, get myself a black ws6. if it ain't black and ws6. I won't be an LS1 owner.

[INMY01TA]

milling off materal= less materal.That still doesn't make sense but thanx. Milling heads gives you less p/v clearance.

[Musclefan21]

hay doodad, were both from the more or less same area. when you get your ls1 and want to see how my set up cackles and such, let me know. we could meet up somewhere im sure.

I would love to see your car though. free ride possible? what is the power level/

[INMY01TA]

That still doesn't make sense but thanx. Milling heads gives you less p/v clearance.
ttt. :toetap:

[rel3rd]

Don't get me wrong I bought mine already built so I do not know how much a cam swap is worth.

My car has an A4, but I know about what the cam change was worth...in the quarter mile anyway

9/10ths quicker ET
8mph faster MPH

Car went from 12.66@107 to 11.77@115 with a camswap and LS6 intake

...and that was a "baby" 226 cam (.595" lift)...stock 112,000 mile heads, stock 112,000 mile shortblock, stock 112,000 mile suspension...that pulls the left front wheel on launch, lol.

In a nutshell, my car's a budget-mobile:
2000 Camaro SS ($8,000)
SLP lid/Airhog air filter (both new, $125 total)
226 cam (used for $200, factor in another $225 for gaskets, fluids, valvesprings and pushrods)
LS6 intake (new for $300)
PI Vigilante 3600 stall (used for $450)
JetHot longtubes and ORY (used for $200)
STOCK catback, TB bypass, MAF de-screen, AIR/EGR deleted (Free)
Ported throttle body (freebie I did myself)
ProStars {skinnies/DR's/lugnuts, etc.} (barely used for $750)
Tune w/free unlimited re-tunes ($430)

Basically, for about 11 grand total, I have a very streetable, reliable, 11 second car.
Only shows 344rwhp on Mustang Dyno, but she RUNS GOOD...

http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/4079/11223/207418.jpg

http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/4079/11223/207421.jpg

[rel3rd]

That still doesn't make sense but thanx. Milling heads gives you less p/v clearance.

100% TRUE.

If heads are "milled", that means the valves are CLOSER to the pistons at every lift figure.

[INMY01TA]

100% TRUE.

If heads are "milled", that means the valves are CLOSER to the pistons at every lift figure.
I guess the guy meant that my friend must have fly cut his pistons but his heads have definately never been off the car.