Help with purchasing a Trans AM

[lekhak]

Hi Everyone !!!

I've been looking to buy a Trans AM for under $15K for some time now.
Got hold of a good looking 2000 model for $14K with 52K on the odometer - KBB value being $14,600 (dealership), it looks like a good deal on the surface.

As for the problem at hand - the salesman told me that everything was in perfect working condition; but then, when I started the radio, the speakers were making a terrible noise.
Also when I roll up/down the windows I could feel the door vibrating as if the motor were leaned against the inner face of the door - is this normal/expected?

The salesman told me that the previous owner might have installed custom speakers - inside the door causing the vibration of the door - and improperly wired back the original ones in the rear causing the noise. He also assured me that it will be fixed when I get back there tomorrow (monday) evening.

I'm new to buying cars and especially a Trans-AM. Can you recommend a couple of things that I need to check before I dive in for this huge investment? Figured out a couple - steering stereo controls and shock sensor (now where are its controls?).

Thanks a million.

[third_shift|studios]

ok, don't buy it. That's it. leave that one and move on to another one. I wish i was that skeptical when i bought mine, but now i have to fix a bunch of stuff, and i wasn't privy to this site-mainly b/c i didn't look anything up about the car to begin with so you are starting off on a better foot than I.

I suggest a 01-02 model if you're looking for a manual b/c they have better master/slave cylinders and better synchronizers.

I would suggest a ws.6 b/c you said you're new to the car and unless you plan on modifying it with all after market, high-performance parts, just get a ws.6 b/c it comes stock with upgraded stuff. If you do know for sure you're gonna throw money into modifying the car, than start with a regular T/A so you're not paying for the bells and whistles that you'll replace later.

the window motors are notorious for going out in all of our cars and the radio is kinda iffy, mine works fine [except the lcd disply went out], but it's nice to make sure that ALL items are functioning properly such as locks/defrost, lights, radio...etc.

very importanly, don't be afraid to WALK AWAY. you aren't obligated to shit until you start signing papers.

good luck, and welcome to the family.

[lekhak]

good luck, and welcome to the family.
Thanks dipherentdesign.

I'm looking for an automatic and dont plan to make any modifications.

I need to buy a car in a hurry and dont have the time to wait for a good deal on WS6 - think I can wait for at the most, a week.

Hope something comes through by then.

Meanwhile, can someone tell me how to check the shock sensor and how to turn on/off the traction system.

[1 badblack transam 01]

Thanks dipherentdesign.

I'm looking for an automatic and dont plan to make any modifications.

I need to buy a car in a hurry and dont have the time to wait for a good deal on WS6 - think I can wait for at the most, a week.

Hope something comes through by then.

Meanwhile, can someone tell me how to check the shock sensor and how to turn on/off the traction system.
The traction system is easy there is a buttom below the radio in the panel and in front of the gear shifter. You just push the button and it turns the traction control on and off.

[yellow02CE]

just bought mine at Carmax. They tend to keep prices under KBB

[third_shift|studios]

The traction system is easy there is a buttom below the radio in the panel and in front of the gear shifter. You just push the button and it turns the traction control on and off.

that is IF there's TCS installed...some cars don't have it, and there is just a empty void there that you can stick your wallet or something

[third_shift|studios]

i would say not to be hasty on this discision...i really don't think there is any reason to....these are big buys and can be nasty situations if you get a dud. besides, winter's upon us and it's not like you can go romping all over the place in a 320HP f-bod at will ya know? Do yourself a favor and check out the "vehicles for sale section" here. Rule of thumb, if the person has a lot of posts-they probably are a veteran of LS1 and have taken care of the car well. If i ever buy another one [lord spare me from my future wife....] i would buy it from a member here b/c i know these guys keep their cars cherry as it gets.

[lekhak]

if the person has a lot of posts-they probably are a veteran of LS1 and have taken care of the car well. Thats a solid piece of advice dipherentdesign. But my family is suddenly short of a car - new job. And I'll have to buy a car anyhow. My thinking was, why not get a car of my choice while I'm at it.

Thanks yellow02CE for your advice on carmax. Looks like they check the vehicle thoroughly and also have a return policy & warranty (not much, but better than nothing) -they are charging a heavy transfer fee and there is no chance of haggling - but all in all an additional 1.5K$ for some peace.

Thanks "1 badblack transam 01" for the info on traction controls.

Think I might go with carmax if I dont get a decent deal by end of week.

[SeVeReDiStOrTiOn]

Thanks dipherentdesign.

I'm looking for an automatic and dont plan to make any modifications.

I need to buy a car in a hurry and dont have the time to wait for a good deal on WS6 - think I can wait for at the most, a week.

Hope something comes through by then.

Meanwhile, can someone tell me how to check the shock sensor and how to turn on/off the traction system.


Check the for sale section here...then check autotrader.com, I bought mine there for 8700....2000 z28 fully loaded.

I'm not sure how much you know about cars...but listen to the motor at idle for any bad rattles, pinging or a loud clicking. During cold start up there might be a metal against metal slapping sound...which is piston slap and is fairly common on the ls1. Take it for a drive with the radio off..listen for all sounds...especially from the rear. Any howling or grinding from the rear is bad...could be gears or carrier/axel bearings, very expensive to replace if you don't have the know how to do it yourself. Pretty much drive it like you stole it during the test drive...but be careful, they go sideways really easy. Check for slippage in the tranny, hesitation in the motor..keep an eye on the gauges like the temp and oil. My temp stays around 210-215..oil pressure around 35-40 warm idle...50+ at 2000rpms.

Most of it is common sense...leaks in the rear end, tranny, main seal, oil/tranny pan. If the motor is running strong it should be able to break the tires loose with no prob from a stop...even from a 20 roll. Good luck...and welcome to the board :yup:

The traction control is a little switch that will say ASR or TCS I believe for a M6. Mine says ASR and it's a 2000 auto. Also try locking up the brakes to make sure the anti-lock brakes work...same with the traction control...turn it on and stomp the gas, it should force your foot off the gas pedal.

[SeVeReDiStOrTiOn]

just bought mine at Carmax. They tend to keep prices under KBB

Sweeeeeet!! Welcome to the f-body brotherhood:usa:

[yellow02CE]

Yeah Carmax doesnt haggle, I was told they were like Wal-Mart buy one of the salesmen. There was a $450 transfer so I flew up and picked it up. Didnt want to put the miles on it but didnt want to wait 3 weeks either. After the drive back it still has 5K on it. They were very honest with me, told me 1 problem that it had, said they already called pontiac and they will cover it under the Manfac. warrenty.

[lekhak]

I bought mine there for 8700....2000 z28 fully loaded. You got a good deal there. Also, thanks for the advice on what to check and the numbers.

yellow02CE -
Which car did you buy and how much did you pay for it?
Asking because you mentioned less than 5K on the odometer.

Also does anyone know how often carmax gets trans ams? - Need to get an idea of whether I can let go off something in stock right now, and wait for something better.

[third_shift|studios]

carmax lists everything as either a firebird or camaro...it takes some lookign around to see if it's a z or SS or ws.6 or whatever?!

[deepblue]

There's a Red 01 WS6 T/A 6spd. with 29K on it at a local dealership in Tennessee for $18,500 could be had for less. It is at Dealmar Haynes Pontiac in Alcoa, TN 865-970-3000. If anyboby is interasted, It's a real nice car.

[mdh100]

There's a Red 01 WS6 T/A 6spd. with 29K on it at a local dealership in Tennessee for $18,500 could be had for less. It is at Dealmar Haynes Pontiac in Alcoa, TN 865-970-3000. If anyboby is interasted, It's a real nice car.

I contacted this dealer about the car and they gave me a price of $17,600. Seems like a very good deal.

[lekhak]

Community Credit Union, my local Credit Union (DFW) auctions off used cars regularly.
On auction right now is a 2000 Trans AM with 44K mileage for 13K$.
Buy-it-Now price is 13.5K$.

Looks like a good deal.
They have a 80 point check list.
Recommended Services are Oil change, check out check engine light, tire rotation.
Engine error code P135 is for the engine light.

I'm new here and the forum isnt allowing me to post the URL (less than 10 posts).
So bear with me here.
Heres how you get there:
Google for "community credit union".
Click the first link communitycu . org
Click the link under "Auto Center".
"eLot Auto Auction" -> "Cars".

Its a manual and I'm looking for an automatic.
Otherwise I would have jumped for it myself.

You might want to call the technician listed in the "80 point checklist" - "Major or Rick Davis at 972-235-1977" and ask them how much it would cost to correct the engine fault before you bid/buy.

[deepblue]

I bought a Blue 2001 6spd. WS6 T/A with 14k last month and paid 19,500. So 17,600 is a good deal, Bank loan is around 21,000.

[Brianss1]

Hey I will give you some real good advice.Do not buy a used car from a dealership unless you know the previous owner who traded it in.9 times out of ten it is a problem.Buy from private owner and get all previous history and run a car fax on it.

01 ws6,silver,auto with yank pt4000 stall,B&M trans cooler,DTS 12 bolt ,3:73,DTS support cover,complete BMR chrome moly suspension including panhard bar,adjustable torque arm,tubular control arms,driveshaft loop,strut bar,optima red top battery,k&n,slp lid,bg ram air mod,Mac headers,off road y pipe,magnflow catback,MSD wires,NGK plugs,smooth bellows,slp mass air flow,throttle body coolant by pass,160 stat,
2.02 1.575 manly racemaster valves with fully polished and ported heads Trend Fully hardend pushrods, COMP TI retainers, Dual Valve spring's
custom comp 228 236 588 578 114 ,ARP hardware,New Z06 gaskets.Around 400 RWHP and 360 torque .

[deepblue]

I are right, Most of the time you will buy somebody's problem child. But before you buy any car you should pay the $29. and get a car fax your self. Not the dealers fax. At most dealers they will give the the name of the previous owner, Call them they will tell you if there was a problem at this point what do they care, it's not their car anymore. And if you did buy a car from a dealership it has a 30 warranty (fix everything).

[madkaw]

Hi , my wife has a one owner 2002 silver ws6 with 23,000 miles she wants to sale for $19,500. It is silver with black interior ,auto and has some performance upgrades if you are intrested it is located in clarksville tn.

[porterusaf]

Hey, I'm new here in the T/A world. I just bought a 2000 WS6 w/ 60k miles, for 13G. Anyone think that was a good deal? It's a 6 speed w/ the monsoon stereo, only thing it doesnt have is Traction Control (wish it did =/ ), and there is a minor scrape to the right rear fender and a scratch that was touched up on the hood (both drive aways in a parking lot). Overall it runs great, good tires on it too with warrantys. I got it from a guy who takes care of his cars, only thing is there is a small pinging when idling, almost sounds like the cat is rattling, he said that is normal. Any ideas? Anyone thing it was a good (or bad) deal?

[boone94]

I think a lot of you guys are looking to pay too much, i just got mine for 16K with 23,400 miles....although 3months after having it i had to put a new fuel pump in it for 1k still 17k for a 99 with low mileage

[senior gomez]

ok. im seriously considering buying a M6 trans am in perhaps the next 6 months or so. after riding in my friends 99 T/A w/ a ram air hood i forgot all about camaros. haha and they look SO much better.he said something about when he got his hood put on it wasnt a GM hood because it was too expensive but the hood he has supposedly looks better because the GM hood has like a little gap b/w the hood and frame or something. whats that all about? he also showed me how his air filter was lifted up and like a peice took off of the hood so the air is ramed directly into the engine, and something about exaust? he claims to be pushing 360bhp. thats my kinda car, just not my color and its automatic...although i can drive a stick decent, im sure if i had one in my own car id get good at it fast, and they're so much cooler and when i see a stick in a fast car i have alot more respect for the driver, ya know? ah, out of breath now. so what do yall think?

so i guess what i really am trying to say is, what kind of things would I start putting on my T/A when i get it? (try to put it into easy terms, im not too car knowlageable...YET) thanks!

[porterusaf]

Well nevermind on my car, hydroplanned into a gaurd rail, did a few 360s and hit another wall on the oncoming lane. Not a good night. Don't know if its going to be totalled or not yet.... probably not even worth trying to fix =/. Looks like I got to find a new one... Some bad luck... =/

[lrader99]

360bhp (brake horsepower) brake horsepower is defined as horsepower at the crank w/ accessories(alternator,power steering pump ac.....all parasytic components attached)....all ls1's make approx 350bhp +/- 3% do to manufacturing tolerances and stack up....so its very possible to get a 360bhp engine off the assembly line

[SeVeReDiStOrTiOn]

Well nevermind on my car, hydroplanned into a gaurd rail, did a few 360s and hit another wall on the oncoming lane. Not a good night. Don't know if its going to be totalled or not yet.... probably not even worth trying to fix =/. Looks like I got to find a new one... Some bad luck... =/

That sucks dude..glad you're ok. F-bodies aren't just your normal everday car...they drive different and have a lot of power, and that rear will come around on you in a heartbeat if you don't learn to control her. If you get a new one..take it easy until you get used to it, especially in bad enough weather to hydroplane.

[srhodes]

who

[Tom's 99TA]

Paid 12,900 for mine. Only 42,000 miles on it. Most I have seen that were in the shape mine is were in the upper teens.

[99PontTA]

we paid 15000 for a 99ta 28 k one owner..two years ago.....bank said it was worth 19500 at the time.But it needed alot of repairs...lots of hidden problems from sitting and not being driven much over 5 years the 1st owner had it.So in the end it cost us 19+ anyway...still works good though...nice to drive....sexy....hot....OMFG i GOTTA DRIVE SEXY BITCH RAT NAW!!!!!!