What are the best spark plugs to use?

[KillerWS6]

I'm going to change the plugs and wires on my 2000 WS6 (for the first time) and was looking for some recommendation on the best ones to get.

All recommendations are appreciated

Thanks!

[rbob93]

I'm going to change the plugs and wires on my 2000 WS6 (for the first time) and was looking for some recommendation on the best ones to get.

All recommendations are appreciated

Thanks!

NGK TR55

Keep your stock wire set unless you have a bad wire.

Welcome to the board. :)

[Sarge]

NGK TR55...unless your running FI or nitrous...then NGK 6's....
Wires...I agree with the ol boy above....unless your wires are worn....keep em...

[camaro_ss_97_]

i use ac delco rapid fire. they work well in my lt1 and i have a set of msd 8.5mm wires.

[BadBlueBird*]

NGK TR55



:yup:

[KillerWS6]

Thanks for advice everyone. Looks like NGK TR55 and keep the same wires!

Excellent!

[skar]

NGK TR55

Keep your stock wire set unless you have a bad wire.

Welcome to the board. :)
? How many miles can one get with the NGK TR55s before you have to change them. (? not plattum)

[Sarge]

For fuel/air burning efficiencies I recommend changing all your plugs every 10K miles regardless.....cheap and a good maintenance exercise.....

[skar]

For fuel/air burning efficiencies I recommend changing all your plugs every 10K miles regardless.....cheap and a good maintenance exercise.....

? cheap car repair shops want $ 400 to 500 bucks to change plugs on my 99 ss looks like a pain in the ass to me.

[2001NBMZ28]

Number 8 is the only hard one, but gets easier after you've done it a couple times....don't pay a shop, do it yourself. I replaced my stock wires so I don't have to deal with the heat shields.

KillerWS6 - don't forget some anti-seize.

[Zboner]

? cheap car repair shops want $ 400 to 500 bucks to change plugs on my 99 ss looks like a pain in the ass to me.


um it costs me $75 to get them changed, WTF!!!!!???

[skar]

wow I will have to look around some more.

[Zboner]

i found an LS1 shop and it only took them an hour to do they said and the included the changing of plugs and wires.

[lawdog]

# 8 you do from underneath the car you can also reach #6 too from there.Undo the air tube check valve to do #2&4, 1,3,5,7 are very easy.Don't forget a little antisieze on the plug thread and electrolyte compound in the wires ends.I recommend ngk if you've done some mods but if no mods stick with AC plugs.

[LS1-450]

Since the topic is "best plugs to use", I'll say model number E-3.62 from E3 for NA or H/C cars. More expensive than NGK TR-55's though.

[ZIPPER]

I just did mine. after taking off the coil packs and the passenger side air tube install was very easy. took about an hour. I would suggest tr55 gapped at 55

[rbob93]

Since the topic is "best plugs to use", I'll say model number E-3.62 from E3 for NA or H/C cars. More expensive than NGK TR-55's though.

At $6.00 apiece you're darn right more expensive!

How often do you change them?
I've heard alot of people tell me how great they are, but have yet to find someone that actually has them in thier car and give me some straight dope on them.

Bob

[LS1-450]

Here's the dope; in many of my threads, have always complimented & defend NGK's as they are a proven inexpensive spark plug. The few times I've mentioned E3's it's been in an "if you want to try something different" type of suggestion. The first time I use the E3 as a response to a direct question asking my opinion on the best spark plug, am called out. Yes, I use them. Haven't changed them as this car is driven about 2K/yr maximum. When it gets to the point that they need replacement or I think they need to be replaced, will post the mileage. As for now, I don't know. Am always intersted in finding & using quality products. From information on the E3 site, decided to give them a try as it's the only true way to find out if it's marketing garbage or a good product. Have not had any trouble with them. What else would you like to know? How 'bout this one, "dyno results showed a 25 HP gain after using them." Seems as though you're looking for an internet experts' answer, so there it is. Am sure you've visited their web site. The information as to why it is an excellent spark plug is there. Does it perform better than other plugs; apparently so. Is it the design standard for future spark plugs. I believe so or wouldn't have tried something other than NGK's.

Funny how people will over spend on bolt ons, but, skimp on gas, plugs, wires...etc..
We're talking about $48.00 here, come on.

BTW, I remain a fan of the NGK. Those I had changed about every 10K or so. However, plan to use the E3 in all of my cars. Will likely stay with E3's from here on until there is another available technology advantage.

[rbob93]

Here's the dope; in many of my threads, have always complimented & defend NGK's as they are a proven inexpensive spark plug. The few times I've mentioned E3's it's been in an "if you want to try something different" type of suggestion. The first time I use the E3 as a response to a direct question asking my opinion on the best spark plug, am called out. Yes, I use them. Haven't changed them as this car is driven about 2K/yr maximum. When it gets to the point that they need replacement or I think they need to be replaced, will post the mileage. As for now, I don't know. Am always intersted in finding & using quality products. From information on the E3 site, decided to give them a try as it's the only true way to find out if it's marketing garbage or a good product. Have not had any trouble with them. What else would you like to know? How 'bout this one, "dyno results showed a 25 HP gain after using them." Seems as though you're looking for an internet experts' answer, so there it is. Am sure you've visited their web site. The information as to why it is an excellent spark plug is there. Does it perform better than other plugs; apparently so. Is it the design standard for future spark plugs. I believe so or wouldn't have tried something other than NGK's.

Funny how people will over spend on bolt ons, but, skimp on gas, plugs, wires...etc..
We're talking about $48.00 here, come on.

BTW, I remain a fan of the NGK. Those I had changed about every 10K or so. However, plan to use the E3 in all of my cars. Will likely stay with E3's from here on until there is another available technology advantage.

Called out?? What are you talking about??
I have offended you by asking for some help in making a decision?

I’m not looking for an “internet experts” answer, just some basic info on replacement frequencies, mileage improvement, HP increases etc.
I’m looking for real user info, not some websites claims.

If you can provide me with that, great, but don’t take offense in me asking questions about a product you recommend.
I thought this site was for sharing info, and discussing cars and such.

For me, $48.00 is a lot of money; I may not be as well off as you may be, and prefer not to be taken in by false claims in advertising.

Have a beer and chill. :)

Bob

[BlackHawk T/A]

Called out?? What are you talking about??
I have offended you by asking for some help in making a decision?

I’m not looking for an “internet experts” answer, just some basic info on replacement frequencies, mileage improvement, HP increases etc.
I’m looking for real user info, not some websites claims.

If you can provide me with that, great, but don’t take offense in me asking questions about a product you recommend.
I thought this site was for sharing info, and discussing cars and such.

For me, $48.00 is a lot of money; I may not be as well off as you may be, and prefer not to be taken in by false claims in advertising.

Have a beer and chill. :)

Bob
I think you need to read his post a little more carefully and chill yourself...

[blackSS01]

Fuck NGK, there is a plug out there, called ________ Racing. Can't remember the name but I will look it up tonight and post back. They had a 02 SS on the dino, one time with stock plugs, one with NGK's, and one with this racing plug. The NGK's added about 2 hp at the rear wheels over the stock plug, while the ________ Racing added about 6.9 hp over NGK's. If I can recall correctly, they were the same price as NGK's and the SS had no other mods. 6.9 hp at the wheels is domination over NGK. That is 8.9 hp over stock.

Stock/NGK's plugs :wwf: ________ Racing plugs. I think they started with a B or something. I'll look it up tonight.

[Zboner]

i do not believe that at all, there is no way that a plug will add 10hp to the car, nope i think thy lied man, not happenning.

[rbob93]

I think you need to read his post a little more carefully and chill yourself...

I'm not the one upset.
My reading and comprehension are excellent.

I couldn't understand why he feels I was calling him out on his recommendation.
I told him I've heard alot of people talk about them but no one could give me any info. Then I asked him how often he changes them, and he got upset.

I then I made an attempt to let him know I wasn't trying to nail him, just wanting some info, then you seemingly became upset.

You have a beer and chill too! :)


Still not upset, Bob. :)

[blackSS01]

8.9 not 10 and it is really not that hard to believe. They showed the dyno graphs and everything. I forgot what magizine it was in, super chevy or hot rod, which are both good mags. Granted the engine may have been different temps, but usually those mags don't lie, the graphs sure didn't.

[Zboner]

i still dont buy it, im going to research this.

[LS1-450]

[QUOTE=rbob93]Called out?? What are you talking about??
I have offended you by asking for some help in making a decision?

I’m not looking for an “internet experts” answer, just some basic info on replacement frequencies, mileage improvement, HP increases etc.
I’m looking for real user info, not some websites claims.

If you can provide me with that, great, but don’t take offense in me asking questions about a product you recommend.
I thought this site was for sharing info, and discussing cars and such.

For me, $48.00 is a lot of money; I may not be as well off as you may be, and prefer not to be taken in by false claims in advertising.

Have a beer and chill. :)

[QUOTE] Bob93



Sorry dude,

It just seems as though any time an alternate resource has been offered as replacement to an existing favorite, the poster gets flamed....my bad. As stated, I believe the E3 is the real deal & is the design standard for future plugs.


Now, let me respond to people whom are posting about plugs that increase HP. Go back to your crack pipe (That's a joke BTW). Generally, plugs and wires have only the ability restore power lost that was previously available under optimum ignition conditions. The dyno info. being referred to above can be realted to several other variables such as heat soak, timing & fueling variations during the run, RPM reduction up top....etc.. The only plug that has documented evidence to have increased pressure in the combustion chamber is the E3. Even E3 states that the improvement must be measured within the combustion chamber in order to record the improvement. To me, this means that it likely doesn't show up @ the flywheel &/or the rear wheels. The design advantage is a more consistant spark over varying engine speeds & a slight increase in combustion chamber pressure.

As stated, my reason for choosing the E3 is that a lot of time & $ is spent optimizing the performance of our engines. Why not go all the way to ensure that each area is as good as it can be.

[blackSS01]

LS1-450, your mostly right with what you are saying (btw the E3 does look badass) Plugs most of the time will restore lost horsepower, but they also can add hp. For example, the plugs that come with an engine maybe good but their maybe a better design. Better design = better effecenciy (wrong spelling) = better hp or mpg. I admit there could be many reasons why it dynoed like it did. There is many ways to trick dynos. All I am saying is that those mags are independant testers and what they showed looked legit.

[redz284u]

was time to get new ones for me when i came accross this thread......i get my e3's today and cant wait to install them......i hope i see a diff....if not, back to the ngk's.......i guess for me its the only way to try stuff being that each car reacts diff. to mods.......

[rbob93]

was time to get new ones for me when i came accross this thread......i get my e3's today and cant wait to install them......i hope i see a diff....if not, back to the ngk's.......i guess for me its the only way to try stuff being that each car reacts diff. to mods.......

Great!
Please post any info you can. Nothing like a real user's input, rather than a company's promise.

Good luck. :)

Bob

[ZIPPER]

Great!
Please post any info you can. Nothing like a real user's input, rather than a company's promise.

Good luck. :)

Bob

:stupid:

[The Rookie]

After reading the above posts and the website for the E3 plugs. I thought I would give them a shot. :yup: I just ordered them from Strauss Discount auto. Got them for 4.62 each on their online store.

[Zboner]

4.50 for spark plugs!!!!!!!! WOW!!!! i pay like 1.20 for my NGK's

[redz284u]

After reading the above posts and the website for the E3 plugs. I thought I would give them a shot. :yup: I just ordered them from Strauss Discount auto. Got them for 4.62 each on their online store.

summit racing $5.99 free 3 day shipping...i get mine today woot woot

[lawdog]

Maybe a dumb question but what is the E3 plug?

[redz284u]

installed the e3's on saturday......no real noticeable hp increase, seems like just restored original preformance......in process of checking gas consumption....

[redz284u]

after two full fill ups, there is no significant increase in mpg .....so in conclusion, the e3's did not seem to add either hp, or mpg......so i will be going back to ngk's....at least those i can get at local store, and are way less expensive.......

[PaganEgyptian]

NGK makes Ford Racing Iridiums($11.00 ea.), Which simply are NGK Iridiums
($6.00ea.), which work well in GM's as well. NGK V-Power TR-6 are what I use, Due to Timing Advancements and other mods. TR-55 are good stock replacements. Champion($1.89ea.) makes stock AC Delco plugs($2.49ea.) and AutoLite($2.99ea) makes the AC Delco Platinums($3.99, in which has anyone else seen the piss poor quality of the factory plugs? I couldnt get them out fast enough.....Its funny what you learn when working in a parts store.... my 2 cents and sorry for the rambling - Tim

[CamaroCrazyChris]

Ok everone.... Settle down now, we are all freinds here. I agree with everone stating the NGK TR55's, However.... If you if you intend on runnig nitrous or forced induction then the NGK TR7IX is the way to go. Its 2-steps colder than stock and is an iridium design wich would be much better suted for power adders. But beware these plugs carry a nice price tag. $7.70 per plug directly from NGK.
Hope this helps!!

[Ric]

I swapped the stock'uns out at 100K for a set of Bosch Platinums. They work... that's all I have to say about'em. And they seem to make the motor ping above 5000 rpm at WOT. Goin with TR55s next go-round.

[GatorSS]

After reading the above posts and the website for the E3 plugs. I thought I would give them a shot. :yup: I just ordered them from Strauss Discount auto. Got them for 4.62 each on their online store.
So, have you installed them yet? Results?

[jlhansen]

Wonderful!??! I did a little research a while back and the concesus was that Bosch +4s were the hot ticket. After three hours and a pint of blood I finally finished the job and still had a miss. Now, I find you guys and hear the NGK is the only choice. Where were you all when I started this project? Actually, where was I? :-/ So, bottom line, NGK is the way to go? I'm not looking for guarantees, only opinions, and I'm thankful for those.

[rbob93]

Wonderful!??! I did a little research a while back and the concesus was that Bosch +4s were the hot ticket. After three hours and a pint of blood I finally finished the job and still had a miss. Now, I find you guys and hear the NGK is the only choice. Where were you all when I started this project? Actually, where was I? :-/ So, bottom line, NGK is the way to go? I'm not looking for guarantees, only opinions, and I'm thankful for those.

Bosch +4's are a great choice too, just a bit more expensive. Many opt for a plug costing less and the NGK works well for us and are high quality.

As far as your miss goes, you may have a bad ignition wire, or you may just think it's a miss. These engines have a somewhat sloppy idle and are not entirely smooth.

And yeah, where were you? :)

Bob

[Bronx]

Bosch + 4's here at 20K. Now at 90K everything seems to be running just fine.

[jlhansen]

Well, that makes me feel a bit better (re. Bosch +4s). I knew they were higher in price and just bit the bullet and bought them. I'm not sure about the idle either. I get a check engine light and the code showed miss (so my son told me), so I'm about ready to take it in for some professional help. As far as where I was, Bob, well, I was in the dark. Where else? :-) I'm hoping this site, and all you educated types, will give me the details I need to make this beast roar again. I have to fix the bottom end, courtesy of my other son (new k-member and oil pan), but I have high hopes of making it go long and strong.

Thanks for the plug information. I almost changed the wires, but didn't. I'll check them. Just dumping that heat shield will be a plus the next time I have plugs to change.

Smile, all.
jeff

[rbob93]

New K-member & oil pan??!! WTF did he run over??

What kind of car are we talking about here?
You didn't say you were throwing a code.

Bob

[jlhansen]

He aired it out, a bit I guess, and came down on a BIG rock. It looks like it hit at the K-Member because there's no hint of contact forward. From there it took the bottom of the oil pan and exited in front of the passenger rear tire, taking out the ground effects on that side. I think I can epoxy a back piece over the break and fix that, but there's no saving the other two. I'm just hoping that the sump pickup is still intact and there was no contact with rotating stuff.

The car is a 2000 Z28. I don't remember what the code was, but my son said it was for misfire. I know that the intake duct, aft of the airbox, needs to be re-sealed (big air leak) and the vacuum line into the intake track at the air valve is cobbled together (I need to buy an new one). Other than that, the vacuum lines look good and it seems to run fine on the top end, so I'm suspecting EGR or something like that. The bottom line is that it's beyond my meager equipment and is challenging my skills/patience. I'd much rather have a 68 without all the other junk hooked to it.

[rbob93]

That's fairly serious from the sound of it, and costly.
The oil pan is an integral part of the block on an LS1 engine you know. Might be all kinds of crap in there after that, and the block may have a crack or two.

You might want someone to look it over if you have minimum skills.

You also might want to take the keys from your son before he does himself some serious damage.

Good Luck! :)

Bob

[jlhansen]

It's deeper than that, actually. He almost (but for the grace of God) rolled it. I can't believe how much of an incline he went across without flipping it. The truth is that the car belongs to the older son and the younger one trashed it. The politics are pretty dicey at the moment, but the younger is still alive so there's hope.

The dynamics of the event make it look like we should be okay. The K-Member took the brunt of the vertical impact and the rock seems to have sheared the sump. It looks like it was about 1/2" short of clearing, judging from the metal left and the amount of the concave damage. I don't think that part of my skills is too much lacking; I'm mostly lost with the ECUs and sensors since I don't have the diagnostic equipment and a person without directed experience can't really tune by the seat-of-the-pants anymore. Since I don't have the money to pay someone else to do this job I'll just have to hope I can muddle through. It looks like GMPartsDirect will be selling me the pan/gasket, but I think I found a K-Member on here.

Thanks for the well wish.

jeff