cold air intake...

[charliebrown1321]

sorry to make 2 threads in a day, but I got some money, and I got the mod bug!

Anyone care to reccomend a cold air? Is just the whisper lid a good choice, or arre the pricier ones like the K&N FIPK really worth the money.


thanks again in advance all you guru's!

[Sarge]

Well a CAI has helped many an LS1...I do not embrace the RWHP gains claims of many of the CAI manufacturers.....I do believe their is obviously some gains....
I do however swear on my Grandmothers eyes the LS1 spools RPM's much quicker with a quality CAI...and this of course is a good thing.....I use K&N....

[GatorSS]

:yup: definitely some gains...but like Sarge says, not as much as manufacturers' claims. But the LS1s really do love the extra air!:love: ...I use an SLP lid and K&N filter...

[siggs229]

:yup: definitely some gains...but like Sarge says, not as much as manufacturers' claims. But the LS1s really do love the extra air!:love: ...I use an SLP lid and K&N filter...



Amen , on the slp lid and K&N !! :usa:

[Snake Eater]

what about bellows???

[rbob93]

what about bellows???

Bellows are a waste of $. Look nice, but no value for your $.

I really don't think much of the almighty K&N either, considering I can hit the same numbers at the track with a paper filter.
They don't leak between the lid and the gasket like the K&N does either.

[GatorSS]

Bellows are a waste of $. Look nice, but no value for your $.

I really don't think much of the almighty K&N either, considering I can hit the same numbers at the track with a paper filter.
They don't leak between the lid and the gasket like the K&N does either.
Yep, smooth bellow doesn't really yield much of a hp increase. I don't call the K&N "almighty" or anything close, I just use it because it serves me well and flows better for me than any paper filter I've tried. Although I have heard of people having sealing problems with the K&N, I haven't had any such problems with any of my K&Ns. I'm thankful I have been so fortunate.:)

[Bowtie Guy]

Ill tell you what I know, I am a member of the Viper Club, and we had a 2004 SRT-10 on the Dynojet, put on a K&N FIPK and it LOST 10 hp! Let the buyer beware!

Bob in the PRK

[Hurley711]

Get a lid for under $100, do the FRA mod and use the extra $$$ towards SFC or another mod

[quicky06]

what do you guys think of clamping a k an n cone filter on the the throttle body?

[BlackHawk T/A]

what do you guys think of clamping a k an n cone filter on the the throttle body?
Bad idea, you would defeat the whole purpose of the air induction system on the F-Bodies...look under the car...you will see where the LS1 gets its air and why we have a lid.

[Snake Eater]

Get a lid for under $100, do the FRA mod and use the extra $$$ towards SFC or another mod


sorry but i'm unfamiliar with the abbreviation FRA? which is..? i have the lid, but I guess i just wasted my money on slp bellows and k&n off ebay.. :brick: should i keep both items packaged and try to sell them to someone else?

[quicky06]

Bad idea, you would defeat the whole purpose of the air induction system on the F-Bodies...look under the car...you will see where the LS1 gets its air and why we have a lid.

forgot to say that i have a 3800

[Sarge]

Ill tell you what I know, I am a member of the Viper Club, and we had a 2004 SRT-10 on the Dynojet, put on a K&N FIPK and it LOST 10 hp! Let the buyer beware!

Bob in the PRK
I have seen folks do the same thing...they do not let the computer relearn the air flow and the damn thing sees all this new air flowing past the MAF and starts pumping fuel like a big dog....results of not allowing the computer to relearn is the car will run pig ass rich and lose RWHP.....
Remove the negative battery cable...install the CAI....reconnect the negative battery cable....drive the car for awhile...let it relearn it's new setup.....then dyno it....and have the tuner validate the A/F.....usually the car will relearn on its own and not require any tune....but slapping a CAI on and going like hell on the dyno will nine time out of ten result in pig rich and lower numbers ....

[Bowtie Guy]

Thanks,Sarge---I hadnt thought of that---makes sense!

Bob in the PRK :cali:

[Snake Eater]

sorry but i'm unfamiliar with the abbreviation FRA? which is..? i have the lid, but I guess i just wasted my money on slp bellows and k&n off ebay.. :brick: should i keep both items packaged and try to sell them to someone else?

:think:

[Bowtie Guy]

Fast Toys Ram Air kit.

[rbob93]

sorry but i'm unfamiliar with the abbreviation FRA? which is..? i have the lid, but I guess i just wasted my money on slp bellows and k&n off ebay.. :brick: should i keep both items packaged and try to sell them to someone else?

Here's the real story on FRA.

Click on the link below, then click on where it says install documents on the left.
Then click where it says Free Ram Air.

http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm

[Thedogofwar]

FRA=Free Ram Air

FTRA=Fast Toys Ram Air

be careful in downpours with the FTRA, only had a problem a couple of times but the filter did get soaked a couple of times.

I also use an SLP lid.

[Snake Eater]

thank you all! :) :) :) :yup: :yup: :yup:

[Snake Eater]

Well I have one question answered. My other: I just purchased slp bellows + k&n filter off ebay the other day. Should I go ahead and install both on my car or try to resell both items?

[rbob93]

Well I have one question answered. My other: I just purchased slp bellows + k&n filter off ebay the other day. Should I go ahead and install both on my car or try to resell both items?

See post #6.

[Snake Eater]

I saw it.. but I've seen different opinions about the k&n, so i'm a bit confused..

[rbob93]

I saw it.. but I've seen different opinions about the k&n, so i'm a bit confused..

I understand.

Here's the deal; K&N = cleaning & re-oiling. Frequency depends on driving conditions.
Filter has to dry out naturally before oiling & re-installing.
Too little oil = poor filtration, too much = fouled MAF requiring a cleaning.
Gasket may or may not leak depending on the type lid you buy.
My SLP lid = no leak, MIT lid I had before = leak.
Power gains are probably too minimal to notice unless you are trying to squeeze every bit of power out of your engine.

Quality paper filter = remove & replace.
As long as you have a lid, the power loss is probably too minimal to notice unless you are trying to squeeze every bit of power out of your engine.
(I can hit the same numbers within a couple hundredths of a second at the track with a paper filter)

You will find some die hards that swear by the K&N.
Me, the convenience outweighs the gain (if any).

Bob

[BlackHawk T/A]

But there is another factor you need to look at...filtration...not just track times...

[rbob93]

But there is another factor you need to look at...filtration...not just track times...

K&N's filter better than paper?

I thought they flowed better than paper due to the increased porosity, and used the oil as a dirt accumulator.

I'll try to find some facts.
Here we are, interesting read.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm


Bob

[noblesramair]

Just my opinoin, go with a lid and K&N filter. Use the exra money from the FIPK system to get some other performance parts. In reguards to keeping or selling the filter and smooth bellows. If you got a good price on the bellows just keep it. I bought one on ebay a while ago and i only paid like ten bucks for it! So just keep it, even if it only creates a few HP its worth it. In reguards to the K&N filter if its the flat one for the intake box then keep it, if you go with the setup i said youll need it if its a cone filter sell it. Thats just my opinoin though.

[BlackHawk T/A]

K&N's filter better than paper?

I thought they flowed better than paper due to the increased porosity, and used the oil as a dirt accumulator.

I'll try to find some facts.
Here we are, interesting read.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm


Bob
I wasn't saying either filtered better, I was only bringing up the subject since everyone seemed to be concerned with flow and power...

[Sarge]

K&N's filter better than paper?

I thought they flowed better than paper due to the increased porosity, and used the oil as a dirt accumulator.

I'll try to find some facts.
Here we are, interesting read.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm


Bob
Oh shit!...I thought everyone including the donkeys in Saudi knew that "study" was flawed. ( Bullshit) .I am shocked you can even link to it...."study my ass" Get a new donkey and quit believing everything on the Internet without absolute proof....From the originator of your "test"
Guys, the truth is that I was curious to see how the maintenance test compared to ones I've had done in the past by Blackstone. And if it might be a cheap alternative. [Roll Eyes]

Now that I've got that little public confession out of the way...the particulant count was totally unexpected. Didn't even know they did it until I saw the report. The PureOne just happened to be the filter I was using. Given all the speculation I've read on web sites about whether or not filters really performed as adverised, and how no one really knows for sure, I thought I'd share this as evidence that a way apparently does exist to measure a filter's filtering ability. It's just a shame that this sort of thing isn't more readily available for the general public. Looks like Terry might have access however.

msparks, I'm sure the guys would run another test for me. It would be a good double check of my test results. I wouldn't want to over do it at work and wear out my welcome though, if you know what I mean. I'll email you may address.
DOH!!!

We have been debating oil filtration efficiencies on this site for a year or year and a half. And the means to determine any given filters efficiencies have alway been at hand.

I have my tractors hydraulic oil tested annually and part of the test is a particle count. I even use the particle count to determine if the filter is doing its job. Why did I never make the connection to engine oil filtration efficiencies?


Ok now you guys who sell by-pass systems. Lets see your results. Run an engine without by-pass to a normal change interval draw a test then by-pass the engine oil and run the particle count after a few hundred miles.
Roger,
Those are not good numbers. Most engine wear is caused by abrasives in the 5 to 10 micron range. I tested filters with lamp black with an average size of 1/20th of one micron. Submicronic particles are not abrasive until they agglomerate. Cigarette smoke is about 1/10th of one micron. The reason the numbers drop at around 15 micron is a good engine with good oil doesn't generate a lot of abrasives that large. The full flow filter is pretty much useless unless something large gets into the oil. The full flow filter does it's best work when the engine is breaking in or worn out.

I could go on...but the "study" you put forth was flawed/bullshit and even the author admits it......
If you want real educated degreed oil info go here.. http://forums.noria.com/groupee
If you want internet hear say go here www.bobistheoilguy.com

[Hurley711]

K&N vs. paper filter. Here is ALL I need to know. K&N cost me $45 and I can clean it and reuse it forever. I run the FRA mod and my hood is sealed to the airbox and my car sees ALL weather conditions, so it gets FILTHY and I clean it 4-6 times a year. I don't even know what a paper filter costs but changing it out 4-6 times a year to accomodate my driving habits and needs will cost me alot more then running a K&N filter. Just my .02

[GatorSS]

Oh shit!...I thought everyone including the donkeys in Saudi knew that "study" was flawed. ( Bullshit) .I am shocked you can even link to it...."study my ass" Get a new donkey and quit believing everything on the Internet without absolute proof....From the originator of your "test"



I could go on...but the "study" you put forth was flawed/bullshit and even the author admits it......
If you want real educated degreed oil info go here.. http://forums.noria.com/groupee
If you want internet hear say go here www.bobistheoilguy.com
:werd: I like how Sarge just cuts through the BS.:usa:

[GatorSS]

K&N vs. paper filter. Here is ALL I need to know. K&N cost me $45 and I can clean it and reuse it forever. I run the FRA mod and my hood is sealed to the airbox and my car sees ALL weather conditions, so it gets FILTHY and I clean it 4-6 times a year. I don't even know what a paper filter costs but changing it out 4-6 times a year to accomodate my driving habits and needs will cost me alot more then running a K&N filter. Just my .02
:yup: Makes good sense to me.

[siggs229]

sorry but i'm unfamiliar with the abbreviation FRA? which is..? i have the lid, but I guess i just wasted my money on slp bellows and k&n off ebay.. :brick: should i keep both items packaged and try to sell them to someone else?


You didnt waste your money . Not the best choice either . I have the bellow , it supposedly helps airflow its smooth inside unlike the stocker which is ribbed for her pleasure :yup: As far as the K&N really no horsepower change , but you can clean it , therefore you never have to buy another airfilter again . As far as the sealing goes , I have never had a problem .

Rob