How do I remove swirl marks ?

[SpeedAddict38]

my paint looks great but on a day with direct sun light (paint is black) u can see lots of swirl marks. how do I remove them ?

[Bandit1]

yea thats a good question i have the same problem (black car also) anyone have advice?

[ice97ta]

claying the car helps alot, but other than that and dont use brushs on your car that is all i can tell you.

[rajiv1998]

use a swirl mark remover. Almost every major car care company makes one

[SpeedAddict38]

use a swirl mark remover. Almost every major car care company makes one

cost ????

[JonB]

cost ????

$10-$20

[4get gto]

Here's a link that should help you decide what you might want to use..........

http://www.dano.pocketrubbish.com/detailing/productchart.htm

[Frozen WS6]

My friend has a black 02 SS also. He keeps it very clean, but after 4+ years he has built up alot of swirl marks. This past weekend I spent most of the day buffing it out with rubbing compound, polish, and a fresh coat of wax. Now it looks as good as it should. On Tuesday he pulled it out into the sun to take it to the shipping yard and it looked so good he was speachless. Black is one of the hardest to keep swirl marks out of, but using really good wax helps to keep them from being so noticable. Just remember that buffing a car with compound does remove some of the clear coat and one day, if you buff the car alot, you may buff through in spots. I prefer to buff cars out every once and a while, but I also spent 5 years working at a bodyshop and buffing on cars for 14 years.

[SpeedAddict38]

My friend has a black 02 SS also. He keeps it very clean, but after 4+ years he has built up alot of swirl marks. This past weekend I spent most of the day buffing it out with rubbing compound, polish, and a fresh coat of wax. Now it looks as good as it should. On Tuesday he pulled it out into the sun to take it to the shipping yard and it looked so good he was speachless. Black is one of the hardest to keep swirl marks out of, but using really good wax helps to keep them from being so noticable. Just remember that buffing a car with compound does remove some of the clear coat and one day, if you buff the car alot, you may buff through in spots. I prefer to buff cars out every once and a while, but I also spent 5 years working at a bodyshop and buffing on cars for 14 years.

sounds like u know your stuff....would u mind step by step instruction ? brand of compound, polish etc.....thanks for your help

[4get gto]

sounds like u know your stuff....would u mind step by step instruction ? brand of compound, polish etc.....thanks for your help

You might enjoy this.......

http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html

[Frozen WS6]

The dual action buffers, which my friend tried first a couple of summers ago. Was really only good for removing the wax after it was applied. I use a automotive buffer that you will find at most bodyshops or detail shops. Mine happens to be a black and decker single speed max of 1750 rpm. I can slow it down by not pulling the trigger in all the way. First make sure it is clean, use a good wax and grease remover to remove any tar and any contaiminantes, if needed. Then on black, I used a flat foam buffing pad and some miguires fine cut compound. I would rather have to go over an area a couple of times to get a scratch out than using the medium or heavy cut compounds and make it a 4 step/ times around. After that I went back around it with a foam waffle polishing pad and meguires machine glaze. Finally finishing with meguires nxt wax, which he had never used before, and I've been using since last summer on my car. He also said it was pretty compairable to the zaino that he had been using and was very impressed by it and he wouldn't even have to order it. Always let the weight of the buffer do the work. Do not apply pressure, and slow way down or do the edges and corners by hand. I also only use drops of each product to buff an area, and brake each panel into quadrents, don't try to do the whole panel at once. Hoods, 4 to 6, fenders and doors 2 to 4. That's were most inexperianced people buff and burn through their paint. Use making tape on thoes areas, it will give you a safty window.You can get all of these items at any paint supply store. I can go into more detail if needed, but I will need more specifics to help. Right now I don't have any good before and after shots yet.

[4get gto]

Frozen WS6 recommended using a automotive buffer and thats true if have the experience that he has. But you will get yourself into trouble real fast if you don't.

I have a dual action buffer and never even thought of removing wax with it.
Always done it by hand..Though I guess you could.

Rotarys are more for if you have have "more than minor" paint inperfections. Anything less and a PC will more than be able to take care of the problems with the right pads and polish /compound. Very user friendly and without the fear of doing damage.

[Z06-Goose]

I don't agree with the statement that DA PC are for removing wax. While the ability of a rotary to remove defects has no compare, the PC is a good tool in its own right that can do the job albeit, taking a lot longer. The PC is a safe tool. For a detailing hobbyist, is great. As it was mentioned above, with the right pad and the right compound, the PC can produce great results.
Also, be aware that the clear coat on fbodies, and vettes is really hard. It needs the right pad/polisher combo. It will be time consuming with a PC, but it's very doable.
The rotary buffer is the right tool to have. The only downside is learning how to use it safely. With gained experience, you can achieve excellent results. There's a lot of room to burn the paint and cause holograms if you're not experienced with it. I use a PC, and with time, I will be stepping up to a rotary, but for now, my PC is doing the job I put it up to do
HTH
Goose-

[Frozen WS6]

I'm not disagreeing with you guys on the da buffer. We never got the results we wanted from them, and yes I've used them before, that is what I used when I first started. I'm just telling my experiances, and like I said after my friend used his. It looked ok but when you looked into the paint there was still a lot more wash swirl marks there that could come out. His car is always garaged, only driven on sunny days and has 30,000 miles so there wasn't alot of road debree in the paint. Also when I clean a car I'm going to bring it back to as close as new as I can, which means that every mark needs to be removed. Yes, I'm that picky. Even if it takes me two days. It all depends on the resaults you are looking for. Also to get practice with a rotary I would buff on daily driver vehicles until I felt comfortable. Then I went to show cars. I had a terry cloth bonet to put on the da buff that I had and used it to remove wax. It worked fine.

[LETHALxLS1]

I have some scratches in my hood and they make me sick(they came with the car). It looks like someone sat on the hood and scratched it or maybe a cat did it. I cant feel them with my fingernail so I am hoping they will come out. I bought a porter cable 7424 buffer and a medium cutting pad. I also bought some medium cut polish/cleaner with micro particles that work with the heat produced by the cutting foam pad. I am gonna try it out today and do a little at a time. I figure I can always go back over it again rather than risk burning my paint. The car could really use a paint job but for now I think I can make it look presentable. My z28 is black and I also purchased a black wax (carnuba) that doesnt leave the white stuff in the scratches making them less noticable. Its called "black velvet carnuba wax" its not cheap but I used it just by hand and was amazed.It takes very little. The weird thing was that my micro fibre clothe I wiped the wax off with didnt turn black. Its also the easiest wax I ever used as for as wiping off. If you have a black car this stuff rules.:buffer: :unhappy:

[Jon7I2]

What about a couple coats of Z5 (Zaino swirl and scrach remover) by hand?

[Bandit1]

all this info is great thanx guys i cant wait till it warms up a bit around here so i can give my baby a full detail

[SpeedAddict38]

What about a couple coats of Z5 (Zaino swirl and scrach remover) by hand?

good question.....would save me from buying a buffer

[LETHALxLS1]

I dont think your hand can create the heat needed to remove scratches/swirls from what I read. The buffer also basically does what you do with your hand but many times faster.Its like what a human could do after smoking crack. hahahaha . I dont think anyone could imitate a buffer with their hand. In my opinion. If you plan on keeping your car for a while like I do I think its a good investment. I got mine for 120 shipped. _____I never used zaino so i dont know about that but check this out:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-porter-cable-7424-car-polisher.html

I didnt buy my buffer from this place I got mine on amazon.

[SpeedAddict38]

great input thanks guys

[30thCamaro]

I used the black wax and it worked great on my black camaro, that was last year though so I am gonna have to find some more of it for this year.

[SiggyZ]

I use 3M Fine Cut Rubbing Compund with my PC orbital buffer/polisher. It works nicely.

[4get gto]

What about a couple coats of Z5 (Zaino swirl and scrach remover) by hand?

Z5 won't remove scratches or swirls just fills and hides them. Even then they have to be very lite or Z5 does little.

Z-pc is a polish that removes scratches and swirls.

By hand ???? You're going to have
big muscles at the end of the day and still have most of your scratches. Any SMR works better/faster with a machine.

[toysruskid62]

i use 3M swirl mark remover and a foam pad on a buffer on low speed,do about a one foot square space at a time,it will look like glass after you done:buffer: :goodluck:

[Frozen WS6]

The funny thing was that my friend had stopped by a body shop one day and asked about the paint and they told him they would have to paint it. I told him that they were full of it and to wait until I was done with his car. Well the results speak for themsleves. Next month when he hits the streets in Vegas (yes he's moving due to work). That black paint will be glowing in the sun. Then 3-5 years from now we will buff it again if it needs it.

[Z06-Goose]

i use 3M swirl mark remover and a foam pad on a buffer on low speed,do about a one foot square space at a time,it will look like glass after you done:buffer: :goodluck:I'm assuming you're using a rotary buffer; which one do you have?
Goose-

[Z06-Goose]

The funny thing was that my friend had stopped by a body shop one day and asked about the paint and they told him they would have to paint it. I told him that they were full of it and to wait until I was done with his car. Well the results speak for themsleves. Next month when he hits the streets in Vegas (yes he's moving due to work). That black paint will be glowing in the sun. Then 3-5 years from now we will buff it again if it needs it.What products/tools are you using?
I've got some Menzerna PO85RD, PO85RD3.0 and PO85RD3.02 I can't wait to use. I'm planning going LC orange pads with my PC. The CC on the Vettes are rock-hard, so I'll have my work cut out there
Goose-

[LETHALxLS1]

I used the black wax and it worked great on my black camaro, that was last year though so I am gonna have to find some more of it for this year.

I used this kind called Black Velet.
http://www.topoftheline.com/black-wax-carnauba.html

This stuff works so good.:yup:

[Jon7I2]

U know what guys i was thinking, how much do u think a professional buffing would cost? Don't get me wrong, im not scared to work on my car. Everything i can do myself i do, but im not about to pick up a buffer that i have absolutely no experience with and attempt to buff out my clearcoat scratches w/ it. So what u guys think on the cost?

[SpeedAddict38]

U know what guys i was thinking, how much do u think a professional buffing would cost? Don't get me wrong, im not scared to work on my car. Everything i can do myself i do, but im not about to pick up a buffer that i have absolutely no experience with and attempt to buff out my clearcoat scratches w/ it. So what u guys think on the cost?

good question... if it only needs it every 4 or five years might be cheaper letting someone do it

[Mjolnir]

Im getting my car wet sanded for 250... remove the orange peel. God i hate lummpy paint hehe. I just dont trust myself doing any thing to the paint on my car. Ill polish and wax it, just not touch it with sand paper ;-) But she will look nice when its done

[SiggyZ]

Using a buffer on your finish is easy to do. I would never pay some business to buff on my car.

U know what guys i was thinking, how much do u think a professional buffing would cost? Don't get me wrong, im not scared to work on my car. Everything i can do myself i do, but im not about to pick up a buffer that i have absolutely no experience with and attempt to buff out my clearcoat scratches w/ it. So what u guys think on the cost?

[Jon7I2]

but isn't it true that u can go right through ur clear coat or paint if u dont knonw how to use a buffer, and i have never touched 1 b4 so... thats y i ask about price for having it done.

[SiggyZ]

There is always that change, but the key is to try it out on a car you are not worried about damaging and always use it on a speed somewhere between 2500 and 3000 RPMs. I never buff over 3k.

but isn't it true that u can go right through ur clear coat or paint if u dont knonw how to use a buffer, and i have never touched 1 b4 so... thats y i ask about price for having it done.

[Z06-Goose]

There is always that change, but the key is to try it out on a car you are not worried about damaging and always use it on a speed somewhere between 2500 and 3000 RPMs. I never buff over 3k.

If you're talking rotary buffer, that should be NO more than 1200rpm. No reason to go any higher than that. Regular operating speed for a rotary is 900-1200rpm. On rare occassions will people go to the upper 1000's

[SiggyZ]

Mine is a Porter-Cable orbital buffer.

If you're talking rotary buffer, that should be NO more than 1200rpm. No reason to go any higher than that. Regular operating speed for a rotary is 900-1200rpm. On rare occassions will people go to the upper 1000's

[4get gto]

Mine is a Porter-Cable orbital buffer.

Never tried but I don't think you could burn through with a PC if you had to.............:thinkin:

[Frozen WS6]

If you're talking rotary buffer, that should be NO more than 1200rpm. No reason to go any higher than that. Regular operating speed for a rotary is 900-1200rpm. On rare occassions will people go to the upper 1000's

I have to agree with zo6-goose on that one. I rarely run my rotary buffer at full speed and mine will only go to 1750 rpm.

[SiggyZ]

Maybe not, but I would rather be safe than sorry. I can get mine up to 6k RPMs.

Never tried but I don't think you could burn through with a PC if you had to.............:thinkin:

[Z06-Goose]

A PC will really do its job when used as a paint correction between 5-6k rpm.

[SiggyZ]

I think that all depends on the intensity of the blemish you are working on because I have gotten great results running mine at just under 3k.

A PC will really do its job when used as a paint correction between 5-6k rpm.

[Z06-Goose]

I think that all depends on the intensity of the blemish you are working on because I have gotten great results running mine at just under 3k.
A combination of pads, compounds...and as you've said the severity of the blemish will dictate the technique you want to use. I'm speaking for personal experience. The clearcoat on the vettes (my car) and fbodies is real hard. Minor surface swirls can be taken out by working the product in at 3k rpm but will take much longer

[Frozen WS6]

Good thing your only using that high of an rpm on an f body. If you did that to a chrysler product you'd burn the paint in the matter on seconds. Also my experiances have been at those rpms with the 3m perfect it and finess it, or meguires will get to hot and start gumming up and burn onto the paint.

[Mr. Luos]

I let Z06-Goose deal with mine. :lol: :lol:

[Z06-Goose]

:hi: :buffer:

[Mr. Luos]

:buffer:
:yup:

I have had to clean the leftover polish/cutting material off the windshield a few times. :lol:

[Z06-Goose]

:yup:

I have had to clean the leftover polish/cutting material off the windshield a few times. :lol:when we do the whole car this time, or next time, we'll tape off certain areas so we don't have to deal with it :typer:

[Mr. Luos]

Next weekend???

:lol:

[Z06-Goose]

Next weekend???

:lol:
Check your local weather forecast for that week :lol:

[Mr. Luos]

My local forecast better be pretty much the same as yours.

Mine might be a touch warmer though...if the sun stays out. :lol:

[Z06-Goose]

I'm planning on doing my Z06 Monday. Claybar, paint correction, polish, leather treatment, windows, exterior trim, engine bay, tires, and wheels. Hopefully the day will be long enough to achieve most of it. I may just do the interior this weekend, including windows, and leave the rest for Monday
You have no idea how bad I want to try my Menzerna line :yup:

[Mr. Luos]

I have a couple black cars to play around with.... :lol:

[Z06-Goose]

I have a couple black cars to play around with.... :lol:
Hehe! We'll do those. Hey, your T/A is due for some claybar as well. as far as your Grand Am we can try some 2-step menzerna process on the hood area, and then top it with some AJ Prime and AJT Sealant, and be ready to be blown away! :cheers: :D

[Mr. Luos]

Ugh....claybar.


:lol:

[LETHALxLS1]

I bought some pinticle (sp?) XMT medium swirl/scratch remover and some XMTfine swirl remover also. I used a 7" orange cutting pad from lake county and applied the medium swirl/scratch remover in 2ft x 2ft areas at a time with my PC on 4000 rpms going from front to back on my hood using very slow overlapping passes each time.I wiped each 2x2 area with a microfiber towel after working the swirl remover with the PC till it turned hazey.After doing the entire hood I then did the exact same thing using a 7" black finishing pad with the XMT light swirl remover but moved my PC a little faster when doing the front to back overlapping passes. The next step is to wax but before I even waxed my hood I was blown away at the results. I had several scratches in my hood that came on the car when I bought it and also had some extreme swirl marks(probably from the previous owner going through those cheap ass car washes) and the scratches were gone and the swirl marks were completely gone from all angles and distances. I never used a PC before in my life and it came out great. For the money I would have paid to have it done I saved about 75 bucks and now own the PC buffer. I had a "professional"LOL guy buff my IROC Z one time and he burnt the paint off my gas fill door and my back bumper in one spot. I was super pissed cause I had gotten the car painted about 8 month before this. When I confronted the guy he had the balls to say "that was already like that" I said no dude I know every inch of my car and it was not already there. I even wiped the rubber black shit off my paint with my finger that came from the edge of his buffer. I think he smoked a big crack rock before he did my car because he was talking way to fast and his eyes were tweaked. The bottom line is alot of these guys who claim to be "detailers" arent really very experienced from what I have seen. So if you do get someone else to do it be careful with who you go with.----mike

This is how that guy was acting>>>>:hyper:

[luciangage]

i work in a body shop and agree buffing is easy. you are only wanting to remove swirl marks you need a fine foam pad and a good swirl mark remover. i personally prefer 3m 3000 series products. i dont reccommend anyone who has never buffed to use any sandpaper and dont use a wool pad. these are for removing sand scratches,they produce swirls and will burn the paint especially on edges. glazing a car is not a big deal but if your going to get into wetsanding and buffing i recommend taking it to have it done. 250 is about right for a all over job and is cheaper than painting on your car.this is my proffesion and just my opinion.thanks tim

[LETHALxLS1]

i work in a body shop and agree buffing is easy. you are only wanting to remove swirl marks you need a fine foam pad and a good swirl mark remover. i personally prefer 3m 3000 series products. i dont reccommend anyone who has never buffed to use any sandpaper and dont use a wool pad. these are for removing sand scratches,they produce swirls and will burn the paint especially on edges. glazing a car is not a big deal but if your going to get into wetsanding and buffing i recommend taking it to have it done. 250 is about right for a all over job and is cheaper than painting on your car.this is my proffesion and just my opinion.thanks tim

I agree I would never touch my car with sandpaper or even compund my car. Just like you would probably not attempt to frame in a dutch hip or a bastard hip on the roof of your house. Just not enough experience.

[topfig1]

If you have little to no experience with a straight up grinder/polisher, buy the dual action polisher from Griotsgarage.com. It is dual action but you cannot tell with the naked eye and it is adjustable up to 7000 rpms. It will not burn through your paint. I have personnaly seen too many people purchase a grider/polisher and burn through clearcoat and paint in a matter of minutes to include myself.


Fig

[LETHALxLS1]

If you have little to no experience with a straight up grinder/polisher, buy the dual action polisher from Griotsgarage.com. It is dual action but you cannot tell with the naked eye and it is adjustable up to 7000 rpms. It will not burn through your paint. I have personnaly seen too many people purchase a grider/polisher and burn through clearcoat and paint in a matter of minutes to include myself.


Fig

I bought a Porter Cable 7424 and it does small figure 8 patterns (it seems) I think its called an orbital. I was impressed with it.:)

[topfig1]

The porter cable is almost identical to the Griots. It works great too.


Fig

[Jon7I2]

so w/ these types of buffers, u guys r talking about, i can safely buff out my clear coat scratches, keeping in mind i have zero experience w/ buffing/ buffers

[LETHALxLS1]

so w/ these types of buffers, u guys r talking about, i can safely buff out my clear coat scratches, keeping in mind i have zero experience w/ buffing/ buffers

I buffed my swirl marks and scratches out and I had never used one before. Autogeek.com has a short video that I watched (someone already posted the link on this thread). The biggest problem I had at first was using too much swirl remover. It takes very little for a 2x2 area. I mean if you have really deep scratches that your fingernail gets caught in when you lightly drag it across the scratch you may want to take it somewhere. I am happy as hell with how mine came out and I am pretty picky. I would give it a shot.---mike

[SiggyZ]

It's not difficult to do at all. The secret is patience and like said above, be conservative with how much product you use per area and also, make sure you have the pad firmly on the surface before turning it on or you will have product flung all over your car and your person. ;)


so w/ these types of buffers, u guys r talking about, i can safely buff out my clear coat scratches, keeping in mind i have zero experience w/ buffing/ buffers

[jmhvenom]

Im thinking about getting one here, I just ordered some new Zaino stuff... they have a new adbrasive (Z-PC I think?) I am going to try, its mainly for my Black Acura though. The Silver paint on the Cam make it pretty hard to see imperfections.

[Z06-Goose]

Im thinking about getting one here, I just ordered some new Zaino stuff... they have a new adbrasive (Z-PC I think?) I am going to try, its mainly for my Black Acura though. The Silver paint on the Cam make it pretty hard to see imperfections.
I would put ZPC in the "finishing" product category, and NOT necessarily as a swirl remover. I will remove mild swirls, but don't expect much out of it especially if used by hand. For a more severe swirl remover, you may want to try Meguiars #83 followed by Meguiars #80, or 3M 39002

[4get gto]

I would put ZPC in the "finishing" product category, and NOT necessarily as a swirl remover. I will remove mild swirls, but don't expect much out of it especially if used by hand. For a more severe swirl remover, you may want to try Meguiars #83 followed by Meguiars #80, or 3M 39002

You can change the way ZPC acts by changing the pad you are going to use.......Yellow,,White,,, Orange,,, . All have a different way they cut and effect the way the polish works. I think this is where Goose was going with this..

Are'nt too many polishes that do well working by hand. At least not without working your ass off.............

[jmhvenom]

Well, I have swirl mikes in my Acura and they are not deep at all so I think it should work.

[Devildog]

I'm thinking of getting "The Edge 2000 Porter Cable 7424 Complete Kit" from autogeek, but I'm not sure what to use with it. I see 3m and Meguiar's mentioned in this thread, but what are the best compounds to use? I'm using it to remove light swirl marks only, no scratches or anything significant. I'm thinking of starting with the orange light cutting pad, or is it perfectly safe to start with the yellow pad?

[Z06-Goose]

I'm thinking of getting "The Edge 2000 Porter Cable 7424 Complete Kit" from autogeek, but I'm not sure what to use with it. I see 3m and Meguiar's mentioned in this thread, but what are the best compounds to use? I'm using it to remove light swirl marks only, no scratches or anything significant. I'm thinking of starting with the orange light cutting pad, or is it perfectly safe to start with the yellow pad?You should start with the least aggressive approach first. The yellow pad is not even an option in this case. It's way to abrasive, and it's only for severed marred/swirl surfaces, and a second application with the orange pad will be needed to remove slight marring left by the yellow pad.
My recommendation will be to start with the white pad first, do few passes with it, don't expect the swirls to go away with just one pass. You'll need patience, and make sure you work the product in properly. If the results you're looking for are not there, move up to the orange pad while still using the same product you were using with the white pad. If that's still not what you want, step up to a more aggressive product.

Since your car it's doesn't have major swirls, you could try Pinnacle XMT Fine Swirl Remover #2 or Remover #1 (http://www.autogeek.net/xmt.html) I've seen plenty reviews on this product by professional, and amateur detailers and the concensus is that it works.

[Devildog]

Thanks a lot Goose...the last thing in the world I want to do is harm my paint, and I am far from experienced, so I'm certainly going to go slow and easy. I'll take a look at that compound as well.

[Z06-Goose]

Thanks a lot Goose...the last thing in the world I want to do is harm my paint, and I am far from experienced, so I'm certainly going to go slow and easy. I'll take a look at that compound as well.You're welcome!
Let me correct myself here. As far as pads go, different brands have different color designation for the cutting properties of each pad.
With that said, I use LC Foam Pads myself, and normally goes from black, white, orange and yellow. Black being the least aggressive, and yellow the most aggressive.
Since you're getting the Edge 2000 (good choice) they have a slightly different color coded pads than the Lake Country ones. I too would start with the orange pad, and move to the green pad if needed

[4get gto]

Quick Foam Pad Reference

...........In order of Abasiveness................................
Med Cut .. Lite cut .. Polish.. Lite polish.. Finish


Propel----- Orange.. Yellow.. Green....... Blue Grey

LC Classic-- Yellow.. Orange.. White ...... Black

LC Hi-Gloss-- Yellow.. Orange.. White.. Black/Rd

Sonus DAS--- Orange.. Green.. Blue

Sonus SFX --- White .. Blue

Meguiars--- Burgandy.. Yellow .. Tan

Edge 2000--- Black.. Yellow.. Green.. Blue....White


"Tried" to put together alittle Chart based on another Web site......Hope it helps.

http://www.dano.pocketrubbish.com/detailing/productchart.htm

[SpeedAddict38]

thanks for all the greats replys

[LETHALxLS1]

You should start with the least aggressive approach first. The yellow pad is not even an option in this case. It's way to abrasive, and it's only for severed marred/swirl surfaces, and a second application with the orange pad will be needed to remove slight marring left by the yellow pad.
My recommendation will be to start with the white pad first, do few passes with it, don't expect the swirls to go away with just one pass. You'll need patience, and make sure you work the product in properly. If the results you're looking for are not there, move up to the orange pad while still using the same product you were using with the white pad. If that's still not what you want, step up to a more aggressive product.

Since your car it's doesn't have major swirls, you could try Pinnacle XMT Fine Swirl Remover #2 or Remover #1 (http://www.autogeek.net/xmt.html) I've seen plenty reviews on this product by professional, and amateur detailers and the concensus is that it works.

That Pinnacle stuff works really well. Very easy to wipe off too.:werd:

[cheviz28]

In our body shop we used only 3M car finnish products. Works perfekt.

[Raoul-Duke]

i heard if u whip ur cock out on the paint it takes care of those fuckin swirl marks...

[jmhvenom]

thanks for all the greats replys

Dont forget the horrible replys also haha, thanks to blackz-lt1

[Raoul-Duke]

Dont forget the horrible replys also haha, thanks to blackz-lt1

awwww c'mon...its not that bad of a reply...it might work? lol

[Jon7I2]

maybe it works for lt1's but not ls1's.

[SiggyZ]

Back on topic please guys.

[Z06-Goose]

Quick Foam Pad Reference

...........In order of Abasiveness................................
Med Cut .. Lite cut .. Polish.. Lite polish.. Finish


Propel----- Orange.. Yellow.. Green....... Blue Grey

LC Classic-- Yellow.. Orange.. White ...... Black

LC Hi-Gloss-- Yellow.. Orange.. White.. Black/Rd

Sonus DAS--- Orange.. Green.. Blue

Sonus SFX --- White .. Blue

Meguiars--- Burgandy.. Yellow .. Tan

Edge 2000--- Black.. Yellow.. Green.. Blue....White


"Tried" to put together alittle Chart based on another Web site......Hope it helps.

http://www.dano.pocketrubbish.com/detailing/productchart.htm
I believe I posted the "dano" link on the "other" board last Jan 24th
However, if you look at the autogeek website, it does list the yellow pad as the most aggressive pad. The dano link originated in europe I believe, and there might be some discrepancies on the Edge2000 pads color abrasiveness chart
http://www.autogeek.net/edge-2000-wave.html

[LETHALxLS1]

i heard if u whip ur cock out on the paint it takes care of those fuckin swirl marks...

are u from la-lower alabama?:slap:

[SiggyZ]

Stay on topic please. They got a slap on the wrist for that comment so please let it go and move on. Thank you.

are u from la-lower alabama?:slap:

[jmhvenom]

Stay on topic please. They got a slap on the wrist for that comment so please let it go and move on. Thank you.

You guys need a smiley from Star Wars, this makes me thing of the end of the 1st one (4th if you are a nerd) when hes like "stay on target"...

I think I am going to buy one of the porter cable packages, but they make it so confusing on there I just dont know what I need.

[SiggyZ]

I love my PC buffer/polisher. It was easy to use the first time I started with it and it does a great job at removing those fine scratches and swirl marks.

I think I am going to buy one of the porter cable packages, but they make it so confusing on there I just dont know what I need.

[Z06-Goose]

You guys need a smiley from Star Wars, this makes me thing of the end of the 1st one (4th if you are a nerd) when hes like "stay on target"...

I think I am going to buy one of the porter cable packages, but they make it so confusing on there I just dont know what I need.
What is it you're confused about?
Post your questions here, hopefully we can help you! :)
Goose-

[SiggyZ]

I agree Goose, I am by no means an expert car detail guy but there wasn't much of a learning curve for me with the PC. Do not use too much product and let the polisher do the work without applying too much pressure on the surface.

[Raoul-Duke]

maybe it works for lt1's but not ls1's.

maybe?? oooo bla bla bla...hey kennedy told me that you both talk now...u go cruisin in his fly ion?? hahahahaahh

[jmhvenom]

Yea, I just want to make sure I get all the right pads and stuff the first time. They have some cool stuff on there, like the rag/pads that you can use to wax I am guessing... all I really need it for is to take all the swirls out of my TSX from letting them put it in their car wash, and then also a few touch ups on the camaro probably. what package would be the best for me??

[SiggyZ]

What website or service are you looking at for these products?

Yea, I just want to make sure I get all the right pads and stuff the first time. They have some cool stuff on there, like the rag/pads that you can use to wax I am guessing... all I really need it for is to take all the swirls out of my TSX from letting them put it in their car wash, and then also a few touch ups on the camaro probably. what package would be the best for me??

[Z06-Goose]

Yea, I just want to make sure I get all the right pads and stuff the first time. They have some cool stuff on there, like the rag/pads that you can use to wax I am guessing... all I really need it for is to take all the swirls out of my TSX from letting them put it in their car wash, and then also a few touch ups on the camaro probably. what package would be the best for me??As siggy said, there isn't much of a learning curve when using the PC for the first time. After ten minutes, you're good to go! :)

As far as pad goes, just get one othose kits that include pads. At a bare minimum, they will throw in there one of each pad you're going to need. I started with a couple of polishing pads (white) a black pad (finishing) and an orange pad (light cut) then thru trial and error I built up a little arsenal of products that work well with my PC. Remember, the fbody clear coat is very hard, and not just any product will remove some swirls. However, you must exercise patience to achive better results

[jrgswhitels1]

To all LS1 guys with BLACK paint jobs, liquid ebony is about THE best back in the day, and still hard to beat now!! Use after buffing to remove wheel marks etc... for that deep scratchless water finish!! Its by 3M. DEALER item only! Your move now!!