Cam sensor position error??

[zero_proto]

I forgot what code it was.
But my rpm gauge stopped working after i installed some headers. Everyone once and a while the car gives me trouble to turn on.
I changed my battery this morning to see if that remedies the problem but it still gave me a bit of a problem.
I checked the grounds on the block and behind the head.
I removed the ground on the block so that i could remove the o2 sensor so that it would reach and connect and then put the ground back on. It looks like there are two places it can be put. Does it matter which one it goes in? It still grounds itself to the block no matter what.
I'm going to check my starter and see if it is good.
But i think it has to do with the cam position sensor error............Anybody ever had experience that problem................
It is really frustrating because i missed out on the drags last night because of that.:bomb:. I dont want to drive without my rpm gauge working, may blow something.

[mrr23]

yep, i did. the wires that lead to the crank sensor, which is behind the starter, runs down the right inner fenderwell down to the the sensor. that aluminum wrapped loom also houses the right front o2. sounds like it's laid up against the header tube and burned through. if not, at least you know where the crank sensor is now.

[zero_proto]

um yeah that loom is actually a bit toasty, so that is most likely what happened, would that cause my rpm gauge to not work then.
I will try to zip tie it away from the exhaust hopefully the heat was just messing up the signal if not i will re-wire it. Your the bomb!!!:nana:

Aren't you the guy that had the mikronite gears in the rear??

[mrr23]

actually those wires lead to the CRANK sensor. stupid me. the cam sensor is on the top of the motor behind the intake.

yes, the tach signal is based off of the crank sensor reading. rpms is revolutions of the crank. when i had to rewire it from burning through, i completely rerouted it. went towards the front and under the motor mount. added about three feet to all five of the wires.

yes, i did the mikronite gear testing.

[zero_proto]

actually those wires lead to the CRANK sensor. stupid me. the cam sensor is on the top of the motor behind the intake.

yes, the tach signal is based off of the crank sensor reading. rpms is revolutions of the crank. when i had to rewire it from burning through, i completely rerouted it. went towards the front and under the motor mount. added about three feet to all five of the wires.

yes, i did the mikronite gear testing.

yeah that had me baffled for a minute becuase i was why would my rpm's not work because of the cam sensor, but the crank makes more sense.
How long did it take you to do, and what gauge wire etc did you use.
I'm going to try and knock it out tommorow.

And on another note, do you think the mikronite gears thing do do.........i've been thinking about it.

[mrr23]

yeah that had me baffled for a minute becuase i was why would my rpm's not work because of the cam sensor, but the crank makes more sense.
How long did it take you to do, and what gauge wire etc did you use.
I'm going to try and knock it out tommorow.

about an hour. 14 gauge is fine. i think i used 12 gauge because it's what i had lying around. after i was done, i black electrical taped the whole length.

And on another note, do you think the mikronite gears thing do do.........i've been thinking about it.


not sure what you mean by do do, but i know it does what it says it does. i did the swapping, temp measuring and dyno testing myself. still track testing my 3.73 gears :)

[zero_proto]

COOL!!!
tommorow it shall be done.:nana:

sorry about the do do i think i went dyslexic while typing, i was just wondering if it is a good buy. You just said the testing was pretty much and sounds really good.
Screw buying a 12bolt, just stronger axles and mikronite the shit out of the gears, and a strong posi..........yeah:uzi:

[mrr23]

my next project will really put the gears to the test.