Royal Purple

[MavrickCJH]

I know it probably seems insignificant, but does anyone run royal purple in their LS1? If so, does it really seem to help? I saw on the royal purple website that they received, on the dyno, an 11hp increase just from running off of their oil, seems hard to believe but i guess nothing's impossible. What is your experience with it? Thanks for any input!:nana:

[vettenuts]

I am running the German Castrol because it seems to provide the best oil analysis results. Having stated that, the oil analysis results that I have seen on Royal Purple have not be stellar. Not sure what they compared to for the hp increase that they show on their web site.

[YoMommasTA]

royal purple is alot of hype if you ask me.ever see anyone really test their stuff?I'd stick with the major brands.hands down the best oil i know of would be amsoil followed by mobil 1

[Sarge]

RP is a good of an oil for your LS1 as any others mentioned here. The RP Racing series of oils have outstanding UOA's with the "regular" RP oils having average. I run RP Racing 41 in the GTO.....I get it for free from one of my sponsors....These "boutique" oils all are overpriced IMHO. Reason being the gains or metal wear numbers are not linear to cost....in other words...I can get the damn near the same performance and metal wear with Castrol GTX for $2.00 a quart than I can RP/Mobil1/Amsoil at $6.00 per quart....over 6 months or 3000 miles.....The justifications for the boutique oil price range from I can use it three times longer to I love my car and want the best. OK.....fine by me...
Let there be no mistake the higher end synthetics do provide superior add packs that result in lower metal wear/higher dyno numbers due friction modifiers etc. What I am saying is these gains are statisticaly insignificant and the cost cannot be justified based soley on those gains. One can make a very robust "soup" for far less and acheive same or even better numbers with off the shelf products for far cheaper.
Example:
6 quarts Castrol GTX 10-30 or Havoline 10-30 dino oil.
3 oz's AutoRX or 6 oz's Lube Control
4 oz's Valvoline SynPower Oil Treatment or 12oz's SLOB (CD2's Street Legal Oil Booster)
Makes for a very robust mix packed with a higher TBN/Moly/Cleaning agents that even the boutique oils cannot touch.
It's funny folks get upset with me and call the additives I recommend as "snake oil"...then turn right around a yell the values of Amsoil/Royal Purple etc. that have the exact same additives in them!
I am not slamming the higher end boutiqe oils here guys.....the real value I see in them are this.
1. All the additives are present in the bottle so there is no mixing.
2. You get peace of mind and a feel good about yourself bonus points for
having high dollar boutique oil in your ride.
Other than that you can achieve the same results in both performance and metal wear with a simple "soup" as described above.
In closing.....the boutiqe oil makers themselves justify the excessive ( IMHO ) cost by saying you can run their oils 15,000 miles.....anybody out there leaving your oil in for 15,000 miles in your LS1/LS2/Stroker motor?
And remember a simple rule....It is not the base oils lubricating your engine....it is the additives.

[GatorSS]

I like extra virgin olive oil....with a little bit of ZMax.

[SSPORT]

I like extra virgin olive oil....with a little bit of ZMax.

I trust Redline, have done so since 1988 when I started using it in my old Porsche. But then, I think they add Extra Virgin olive oil to their mix, too.

[Sarge]

I trust Redline, have done so since 1988 when I started using it in my old Porsche. But then, I think they add Extra Virgin olive oil to their mix, too.
Gobs of Moly is what RedLine adds.

[Sarge]

I like extra virgin olive oil....with a little bit of ZMax.
Add some ZDDP and call it Gator1...Sell it for $6.90 a quart at WalMart.

[LS2Tuner]

We did dyno test a couple of years ago on a LS1 T/A with RedLine and say a 8 hp difference in back to back dyno pulls just changing the oil!!!:true:

Then again I live in the hottest city in the country so I would NEVER run conventional oil out here due to heat braekdown.
:Patriot:

[Sarge]

Yup...Pouring cold oil in a hot engine always helps :) I dont doubt it a bit...RedLine has tons of frction modifiers like Royal Purple.....
As for the Viscosity enhancers you mention ( Its hot I wont run conventional) .....Shearing and flashpoints are all controlled with the additives I mentioned above....has nothing to do with the base oils of either synthetics or Dino oils....

[YoMommasTA]

i use pennzoil platinum and it turned me into a instant chick magnet.I also gained 249 hp,its amazing stuff.

[Sarge]

i use pennzoil platinum and it turned me into a instant chick magnet.I also gained 249 hp,its amazing stuff.
LOL...yup...PP is good stuff! MAybe the should market the Chick Magnet thing :) I mean if Mobil1 can say we gurantee 15000 miles ( please read all the disclaimers that renders that gurantee totally useless) then why cant PP market...Use our oil and Babes will beat down your door....I like it!
Ol LS2Tuner got me thinking....flashpoints of regular old yellow bottle Pennzoil 10-30 conventional...with nothing added is 419.8F....
...RedLine 10-30 is 480F....so if your running oil temps under 420 degrees farenheight conventional oil is protecting your motor just fine.....My oil temps rarely get over 200 in the South Texas heat with the AC on full blast....

[YoMommasTA]

I see you're a SRV fan,so am i.My yahoo handle is Riviera Paradise.