400 Club

[Phlash_riot]

What is the cheapest way to get a 99 manaul T/A to 400HP N/A at the wheels. And also keep the engine safe as far as longevity. I just want to be able to hang with a porche' or anything under a Viper GTS(or something else in the Viper's category). Not sure what I am going todo yet. I am just trying to get all the information that I can to make the best decision for myself.

- Unrelated - (kind of)
What is the differance between the LS1 and the LS6. Is the LS6 a direct replacement as far as bolt pattersn/mouting/computer/intake and exhast ports? or are the two completly differant block all together? That being said if they are almost the exact same would it be better to get a used LS6 block and build up a little to get to the 400HP marker?

[BlackLT1Z28]

The only to get 400 to the ground on all motor is H/C/bolt-ons. If you don't want to do that, you can ditch the N/A philosophy and spray the hell out of it. I prefer N/A setups myself. But it won't be cheap.

As far as I know, the LS1 and LS6 are the same blocks. The main differences are the intake manifolds, heads, and cam. So you might as well stick with the LS1 block and build that up, than getting an LS6 block and trying to build that up. It will pretty much be the same thing, except you spent more money on buying the same block with different factory parts.

[Frankthetank]

Try some of the bigger cams, Like the Trex or MS4 Cam....

Im running a Torquer v2 cam only, with headers and exhaust and im putting out 400 RW Torque. My HP is only 364 but I dont care....HP sells car, torque wins races

[vettenuts]

LS1 and LS6 are not the same block, however later in production the LS6 block was used in some LS1 motors. Only way to tell is to check the number on the back of the block. Internal windage is a big difference between the two.

I am at 400 hp, headers small cam and small port heads. You can get there cam only, but the cam needs to be bigger and you will sacrifice some lower end power. All depends on how you want to get to the number and at what RPM you want to achieve it, mine peaks at 5,900 RPM so I don't have to wind the snot out of the motor to get the hp.

[Wikid NaSSty]

I believe you would also need to get an LS6 computer for a swap.

[ninobrn99]

I believe you would also need to get an LS6 computer for a swap.

why would he need a ls6 computer?? if you wanna keep up with them, you need a good midrange setup. a cam will do nicely, but heads and a very mild cam would do the trick. you may not get the highest hp/tq on the dyno, but your power curve will be very nice and you'll have power all around. a set of stg 1 ported heads and a 224/228 or 228/228 112 on the lsk or xer lobes would do the trick.

[Danger731]

or a 75 shot

[SR71]

Cam, intake, lid, headers, catback, throttle body, pulleys, a great tune, and good gas may get you close. It'll be tough without some aftermarket or ported heads though.

[LS1-450]

I believe you would also need to get an LS6 computer for a swap.


LS6 computer is not required. Use the same sensors & make sure the crank reluctor remains the same & you're good. I have a 98 PCM, sensors, & wiring controlling a 2006 LS6 assembled block w/ a 2002 practically new rotating assembly, AFR 205 heads, & a Comp cam.

[speeddemon100]

I need a cam and headers to get me to 400whp on an ls2

[ninobrn99]

thats cause you're already rated at a higher hp to start with ;)

[440 rwhp trans am]

easy 383 stroker

[speeddemon100]

thats cause you're already rated at a higher hp to start with ;)

not wheel though :cuss: :seesaw:

[preston1980]

I got my 99 TA to 368 RWHP with only bolt ons.
But if you want 400, you need a cam or heads or nos/blower

[Azrael]

I need a cam and headers to get me to 400whp on an ls2

LS1 = 346 ci
LS2 = 364 ci

:dot:

LS1 you will either need a mild cam and heads, or a big cam; and all bolt-ons with either (LS6 intake, Ported TB, Lid, Headers, cat-back/or better yet True Duals, UD Pulley, Injectors, and a tune).

[ninobrn99]

ls1=346
ls2=364
no matter how you look at it, you are rated at more hp at the wheels over a ls1. bolt ons should get you at or over actual rated hp.

[gillbot]

i did 399RWHP with minimal mods and a tr230/224 cam, NO HEADS.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476349

[speeddemon100]

ls1=346
ls2=364
no matter how you look at it, you are rated at more hp at the wheels over a ls1. bolt ons should get you at or over actual rated hp.

:yup: what if i change the heads now :nana: i guess 500 N/A wouldnt all all that hard to to on a budget build

[ninobrn99]

not with afr heads, more compression, a better cam and all that other stuff. proper part matching.

[gillbot]

:yup: what if i change the heads now :nana: i guess 500 N/A wouldnt all all that hard to to on a budget build

400-450 is fairly attainable with not much effort, beyond that you sacrifice driveability for power. 400 with bolt ons and a good cam is fairly common, 450 with heads, cam and bolt ons. Beyond that you need to open your wallet at the intake and let the motor suck all the cash it wants.

[Redphoenix1998]

driveability, that's for friggin sure. I had some issues till I got a brake vacuum canister and a speed density tune. As far as the LS6 computer thing...umm....no. Essentially, it's the same as an LS1, just a different program. A good tuner will reflash your computer and tune it to how the engine should be run. I hit 500rwhp and 510 ft lbs running an LS6 with JPR S2 heads, a TR230/224 cam, full bolt on's and 11:5.1 CR. LS6 has better oiling and windage overall, that's about it.

[Roastem]

I sacrificed huge dyno numbers for driveability and better "under the curve" motor performance. A car that makes above 350 at the wheels from 5800 to 6800 is not going to be as fast as one that does it from 4000 to 6800. Still I was tempted to slap a monster cam in there just for the hell of it after putting the heads on. Also, the dyno guy told me there was more WHP to be made if I got rid of my heavy ass 18x10.5" Chrome C6's, with 295/35's to boot. Screw that, I like my wheels, plus I need the traction.

Take a look at my dyno numbers, but REALLY take a look at the 1/8th mile performance, after all is said and done, WE DON'T RACE ON THE DYNO. Big numbers don't mean jack if you can't win races.