Basic Bolt On's list and some explanations

[Redphoenix1998]

1. Best bang for the buck mod by far is a lid. When it comes to the different manufactureres, just remember, a lid is a lid. If you're looking for something cheap and affordable, check out the SLP lids. Great fit overall. I personally run the whisper lid but the fit isn't as good as the SLP.

2. Don't fall for the trick, stay with the stock MAF. DOn't spend the money for a bigger MAF or a Cold air tuned MAF. It will only give you more problems than gains. Detonation is a big issue! The most you should do with the MAF is porting and descreening the MAF which is a free MOD.

3. If you're running a 98-99 LS1, look into an LS6 or FAST manifold. Very good MOD and it makes a difference.

4. Freeing up your exhaust IE headers and cat back not only gives you more bark, but it will help you with the bite later after a cam install.

5. Pushrods are fairly easy to change. If you have an M6, Pushrods should be the first thing to change. The stock length is 7.400". The upgraded Chromoly's are only $150 approximately but it will save you from heartbreak when you ding past redline leading to bend or in my case, pushrods snapped in half.

6. Quarterpanel flex, leaky t-tops, twisted frames, it's all too common in our cars. Invest in a good set of Sub Frame connectors. Have them professionally installed, bolted, or welded on a loaded lift, not a frame off. On a frame off, once the car is lowered onto the tires and the suspension is preloaded, the welds will break and the bolts as well. For those who have questions on the loaded lifts, it's just a lift you drive up on and the whole car is lifted. Most shops have a roll on lift or a pit.

7. Rearend is a weakpoint when it comes to high horsepower. You can run a rebuilt stocker and be fine. The axles are usually what goes first.

8. Nothing beats a custom tune from a performance shop. Check out some local shops to see if they do any custom tuning. A programmer can cause some issues like pulling the wrong timing, wrong A/F Ratios, etc.

There are more mods than can possibly be listed, but this is a basic list. Pick and choose the route you take and do your research. On this site, you'll find a lot of informative sponsors. When shopping for a cam, look into Thunder Racing, they have some great custom Cams with full explanations and a few with Dyno Graphs. This site is full of info as well, do your research and surf through some posts.

Ok guys, if you want to add any more info into this list, feel free to add!

[Hawk241]

I have an 02 Firehawk, its got a slp blackwing lid, can you define its difference. I understand its different than a stock lid, my buddy says its the same. I dunno.

[sethta]

You can also do free mods like throttle body bypass, free ram air, and port and polish throttle body. Cold air induction setups can get you some horsepower and if you wanted to you can do new 8mm spark plug wires.

[Red Baron]

How do you do a Throttle Body bypass? I'm not sure what you mean?

[Red Baron]

You also mentioned descreening the MAF. Is there a screen inside blocking the flow? I haven't had mine off yet.

[sethta]

A throttle body bypass keeps the hot antifreeze from flowing through the throttle body keeping the incoming air cooler. I tis said to five about a six horsepwoer gain. Go to install university to see how to do it. Also yes there is a screen inside your MAF IT doesn't really block the flow too much but it is free horsepower if you take it off, but I would leave it in, it's there for a reason.

[Redphoenix1998]

To Answer some questions, the donaldson/blackwind lid on the firehawks does have better flow than the stocker, it's basically a lid, that's all there is to it. Less restrictive than the silencer ram air setup found on WS6's and Stock T/A's. The Maf has a screen at the end which basically keeps big particals out. Some have notived a difference by descreening it, others have said not to do it because of the particles that can harm the MAF but then again, I haven't heard of any damage from a loose rock getting passed the filter to damage the MAF so I don't see a problem with it. Been running Maf ends with no screen since 98 and have had no issues. Also as a side note, if you have a kit like the BGRA kit or the SLP underbody sold air kit, it's not a good idea, on WS6's and aftermarket WS6 hoods to have both. It may seem like a good idea, an opened up hood to force more air and the underbody cold air at the same time, but what really happens is the air turbulence from two opposing air currents actually makes it less efficient.

[Hawk241]

Hey thanx for getting back info on the blackwing lid...do I keep it or does it compete with other aftermarkets like clear and whisper? If I keep it, what filter do you think I should run? The original was very dirty, so quick bought a wix....?:thinkin:

[Redphoenix1998]

the paper filter works just fine. Just keep the blackwing. I know that sucker resells for a couple hundred. It's basically an OEM SLP lid for the firehawk to the best of my understanding

[1 badblack transam 01]

When I first got my 01 ws6 and i took the air box out I found a blade of grass stuck to my maf screen. Personal opinion says keep it for reasons like that, because u never know what might get to it.

I have oftened wondered if you couldnt take out the screen and weld in a chicken wire (just smaller holes) type of metal in and get a horsepower gain.
Has anyone tried this?

[Red Baron]

Thanks for all the help with the screen. It looks like it 's time to go tinkering.

[DarthD]

Just a note for the SLP lid -
I sometimes send in a sample of my oil for analysis. When I installed the SLP lid on my WS6, my oil started showing a high silicon content. Blackstone Labs told me that dirty air was probably getting past my filter. I removed the SLP lid and reinstalled the stock lid. The next oil sample was normal. I tried the SLP lid again and I had high silicon again. Also, when I removed the SLP lid there was a small blade of grass stuck to my MAF screen.
I was very careful installing the lid. It simply does not seal as well as the stock lid. It does not seem to fit as tight.

[djvaly]

some info on calculating HP, and my bolts on mods below:
A4 TA, substract 18% to 20% from the engine hp and you get hp to the rear wheel.
The M6 are said to be about 16% power loss..
so let's take my '99 A4 TA which claims 305hp to engine. That means
305-(305*0.18) = 304-54.9 = 250.1rwhp as stock engine.

my Mods:
I've got bolt on mods, lid and filter (5rwhp), SLP cold air induction kit (8rwhp), smooth bellow (5rwhp), Gratenelli MAF (5rwhp), 160F thermo, cat back Corsa (15rwhp), HyperTech Programer II (10rwhp), ASP Underdrive Pulley(12rwhp).

This dynoed the car at 315wrhp. so all those bolts on gave me only about 60-65 rwhp gain which is just about right. I did spent $850 on the Corsa, then $250 on the HPP3, and then another $300-$400 on the rest, about $1500 total which is about right for 60rwhp gain. If you were to spend $2000 on new head cyclinder it would bump you 50-60rwhp so I think I made a pretty good investment so far on the bolt ons.

My next move is to get jet-hot long tube haders and Y pipe which will add 20-25rwhp and then
get ls6 manifold intake adding another 10rwhp. And when I get $2-3k aside next year I can get the
head/cam package Patriot stage III probably which will get me in the 420rwhp with a nice tune.

PS. I did get the Eibach Pro kit lowering 1.25, it looks great.. use the stock shocks as you won't bottom out with this unless you go with 2inches springs. If you lower your ride and want to do LT headers and Y pipe later, you can still do it just stay away from the SLP brand since they will eat an additional 1-1.5 inch into the clearance and may scrape/bottom out every now and then.

[djvaly]

my above posting is not entirely true... just found out all LSX are underrated by 30+ hp by GM:

per "99blueZ" on another thread on same subject:

"Way to open up a ancient thead.

Ok you got some problems with your post. Your T/A probably has about 330 crank hp stock - these cars are underrated. You car stock is probably 280rwhp. Thus you gained about 35rwhp from your mods. 315-280= 35. not the 60+ you were dreaming of. Here are the more realistic gains for your mods: lid and filter -10rwhp, SLP cold air induction kit -0rwhp, smooth bellow -0rwhp, Gratenelli MAF -0rwhp, 160F thermo, cat back Corsa -15rwhp, HyperTech Programer II -0rwhp, ASP Underdrive Pulley -10rwhp."

[Hurley711]

As far as suspension mods go, the stock shocks are absolute crap, and I am talking from the second they put them on the car. Upgrading to something like Bilstein HD shocks will help ride quality immensely. Also, LCA are a nice mod to help reduce wheel hop which is all to common on our cars.

[svt_eater]

I have an 02 Firehawk, its got a slp blackwing lid, can you define its difference. I understand its different than a stock lid, my buddy says its the same. I dunno.

From the old SLP message forum: The 2002 Firehawk's made in/after September 2002 or later all had the Blackwing/SLP lid stock as part of the Firehawk package. This is what made them 345HP instead of the previous 335HP. The remaining parts of the package stayed the same including the exhaust.

Along with the SLP/Blackwing lid came a Donaldson air filter...designed to flow better than K&N or any other filter on the market, while still providing an equal level of filtering. This stock Donaldson filter is a paper filter. SLP sells for about $30 I think.

[---Ws6---01]

Just had a question. My car is equipped with the slp performance package and was wondering if replacing the aftermarket maf w/ stock makes a difference even though everything was provided from Slp?

[djvaly]

invest your money in something else than MAF, smooth bellow and small stuff... maybe a 2-3rwhp difference, not worth the $$, I bought it and almost no diff. the SLP lid and cai gave 5-6rwhp, the HPP3 programmer another 4-5rwhp.. etc,, check out my sig..

[camarostripes96]

I Have A 96 Trans Am Lt1 , 6 Speed With K &n Cai, And Short Shifter With Borla Catback Exhaust With Magna Flow High Flow Performance Cats. What Other Mods Could I Do To Get Hp Gains And Arent Pricy?

[Thunda]

I have been thinking of getting a Thunder Racing cams, what is a good recommendation for street and strip? and what about headers? which are you getting the best numbers?

[sobaka79]

Just a note for the SLP lid -
I sometimes send in a sample of my oil for analysis. When I installed the SLP lid on my WS6, my oil started showing a high silicon content. Blackstone Labs told me that dirty air was probably getting past my filter. I removed the SLP lid and reinstalled the stock lid. The next oil sample was normal. I tried the SLP lid again and I had high silicon again. Also, when I removed the SLP lid there was a small blade of grass stuck to my MAF screen.
I was very careful installing the lid. It simply does not seal as well as the stock lid. It does not seem to fit as tight.

i had this problem as well, i used the K&N gasket on the bottem side of the intake and this pushed the air filter up enough to seal the lid. I then took the box back and told them the gasket was missing and put the other gasket in the appropriate place on the lid. i also made my own silicon gasket and basically glued the filter to the lid.

the problem appears to come from the seal around back toward the MAF/TB

[ArmyCPT]

i installed a throttle body spacer and smooth bellows on my 02 WS6 convertible. it produced a noticeable increase. staying with the stock lid.

[anotherhustler]

did you use the nx tb spacer? port the maf next its pretty funny :ar:

[aspkkr]

I actually had my airlid come apart which allowed all kinds of stuff to flow over my air filter. When I noticed it and took off the maf the screen was covered with feathers and sticks and yes ROCKS!! So I strongly recommend leaving the screen where it belongs.

[csess]

what does the egr and air block offs do?

[Wesman]

what does the egr and air block offs do?

Blocks off the AIR and EGR ports on the exhaust and intake manifolds. Basically just metal plates shaped like the ports to prevent leakage of exhaust gasses or intake air.

However, if you just block them off, you will get a Check Engine Light. You need to tune them out of the computer with a custom tune, and then you can block off the AIR/EGR ports.

[scooley]

where is the best place to start modifying with bolt ons?

[sethta]

I would start with airlid and catback first. Then I would do headers and ported throttle body.

[FORD RECOVERY EXPERT]

+1 For Teh Lid And Full Exhuast

[Semperfiws6]

1. Best bang for the buck mod by far is a lid. When it comes to the different manufactureres, just remember, a lid is a lid. If you're looking for something cheap and affordable, check out the SLP lids. Great fit overall. I personally run the whisper lid but the fit isn't as good as the SLP.

2. Don't fall for the trick, stay with the stock MAF. DOn't spend the money for a bigger MAF or a Cold air tuned MAF. It will only give you more problems than gains. Detonation is a big issue! The most you should do with the MAF is porting and descreening the MAF which is a free MOD.

3. If you're running a 98-99 LS1, look into an LS6 or FAST manifold. Very good MOD and it makes a difference.

4. Freeing up your exhaust IE headers and cat back not only gives you more bark, but it will help you with the bite later after a cam install.

5. Pushrods are fairly easy to change. If you have an M6, Pushrods should be the first thing to change. The stock length is 7.400". The upgraded Chromoly's are only $150 approximately but it will save you from heartbreak when you ding past redline leading to bend or in my case, pushrods snapped in half.

6. Quarterpanel flex, leaky t-tops, twisted frames, it's all too common in our cars. Invest in a good set of Sub Frame connectors. Have them professionally installed, bolted, or welded on a loaded lift, not a frame off. On a frame off, once the car is lowered onto the tires and the suspension is preloaded, the welds will break and the bolts as well. For those who have questions on the loaded lifts, it's just a lift you drive up on and the whole car is lifted. Most shops have a roll on lift or a pit.

7. Rearend is a weakpoint when it comes to high horsepower. You can run a rebuilt stocker and be fine. The axles are usually what goes first.

8. Nothing beats a custom tune from a performance shop. Check out some local shops to see if they do any custom tuning. A programmer can cause some issues like pulling the wrong timing, wrong A/F Ratios, etc.

There are more mods than can possibly be listed, but this is a basic list. Pick and choose the route you take and do your research. On this site, you'll find a lot of informative sponsors. When shopping for a cam, look into Thunder Racing, they have some great custom Cams with full explanations and a few with Dyno Graphs. This site is full of info as well, do your research and surf through some posts.

Ok guys, if you want to add any more info into this list, feel free to add!

when you say the loaded lift, you mean like an alignment lift, correct?

[TimsLS1]

Hey guys i need help with my 2002 LS1 im not really sure what items to add to it just to get enough power that wont kill my daily driving of the car. do you have any ideas?

[sethta]

Start with a lid, good performance gain that doesn't effect driveablity. If you don't mind it being a little bit louder put a catback like hooker on, but if you want it really loud put a borla or corsa on. Also depending how loud you want a daily driver you can do headers, but make sure to have cats on unless you want to smell like gas. Depending on how many miles your car has a good tune-up will give a small gain and improve driveability.

[jrgswhitels1]

MAF...what is the deal with these suckers!! My buddy gave me an 06' GTO MAF, which by the way is much larger in diameter than my stocker,and now Im having problems with fuel trim(-14 up to -24) constant at cruising speeds and seems like its bogging down! I even maxxed out my Diablosport powertune enrichment all the way to lean and it only dropped down to -13 and as high as -14. Took to track and definetly felt slower. Had code of engine misfire and stuff like that. Can the MAF really screw things up that bad??

[99blueZ]

MAF...what is the deal with these suckers!! My buddy gave me an 06' GTO MAF, which by the way is much larger in diameter than my stocker,and now Im having problems with fuel trim(-14 up to -24) constant at cruising speeds and seems like its bogging down! I even maxxed out my Diablosport powertune enrichment all the way to lean and it only dropped down to -13 and as high as -14. Took to track and definetly felt slower. Had code of engine misfire and stuff like that. Can the MAF really screw things up that bad??

yes it can really screw things up. Put your stock MAF back on. Not worth the headaches.

[djvaly]

you need to retune with a pro tuner like LS1Edit. the Air and Fuel table constants and layout has changed...

[clg82]

i currently am running a ws6 with a k&n filter....with the slp smooth bellows connecting the maf and throttle body......if i purchase the slp lid will that eliminate the bellows and if i do get a lid will that still be a good hp gain even though i already have the ws6 intake and lid? and if so how is the slp lid better???

[Hurley711]

1. Best bang for the buck mod by far is a lid. When it comes to the different manufactureres, just remember, a lid is a lid. If you're looking for something cheap and affordable, check out the SLP lids. Great fit overall. I personally run the whisper lid but the fit isn't as good as the SLP.

2. Don't fall for the trick, stay with the stock MAF. DOn't spend the money for a bigger MAF or a Cold air tuned MAF. It will only give you more problems than gains. Detonation is a big issue! The most you should do with the MAF is porting and descreening the MAF which is a free MOD.

3. If you're running a 98-99 LS1, look into an LS6 or FAST manifold. Very good MOD and it makes a difference.

4. Freeing up your exhaust IE headers and cat back not only gives you more bark, but it will help you with the bite later after a cam install.

5. Pushrods are fairly easy to change. If you have an M6, Pushrods should be the first thing to change. The stock length is 7.400". The upgraded Chromoly's are only $150 approximately but it will save you from heartbreak when you ding past redline leading to bend or in my case, pushrods snapped in half.

6. Quarterpanel flex, leaky t-tops, twisted frames, it's all too common in our cars. Invest in a good set of Sub Frame connectors. Have them professionally installed, bolted, or welded on a loaded lift, not a frame off. On a frame off, once the car is lowered onto the tires and the suspension is preloaded, the welds will break and the bolts as well. For those who have questions on the loaded lifts, it's just a lift you drive up on and the whole car is lifted. Most shops have a roll on lift or a pit.

7. Rearend is a weakpoint when it comes to high horsepower. You can run a rebuilt stocker and be fine. The axles are usually what goes first.

8. Nothing beats a custom tune from a performance shop. Check out some local shops to see if they do any custom tuning. A programmer can cause some issues like pulling the wrong timing, wrong A/F Ratios, etc.

There are more mods than can possibly be listed, but this is a basic list. Pick and choose the route you take and do your research. On this site, you'll find a lot of informative sponsors. When shopping for a cam, look into Thunder Racing, they have some great custom Cams with full explanations and a few with Dyno Graphs. This site is full of info as well, do your research and surf through some posts.

Ok guys, if you want to add any more info into this list, feel free to add!


WOW! Can't believe no one has said anything about this. #3 lists 98-99 cars as needing LS6 manifold or FAST manifold, should list 98-00 cars. Little Easter Egg there

[02Hawk]

WOW! Can't believe no one has said anything about this. #3 lists 98-99 cars as needing LS6 manifold or FAST manifold, should list 98-00 cars. Little Easter Egg there


Not true I have an ls6 block and intake... stock in my 2002 many 2000 - 2002 came with ls6 intakes and some blocks... so look up part numbers before you go out and buy one for you 00 - 02

[JayErnie]

About the grill into the MAF sensor, on some cars it's there to keep the air incoming into the intake straight, whithout any swirl or disturbance caused by irregular surfaces in the intake pipes such as waved rubber tubes like the ones on about every car. Sometimes that grill serves as a protection against backfires so it doesn't actually set the airfilter on fire. The last purpose of that grill is simply to be a screen right before the intake, preventing incomings shrapnel or useless stuff for the combustion (like a rock or w/e could get there) to enter the engine.

Now on Fbodies LS1, I don't see any particular uses I mentionned above to be fulfilled by the grill xept for the fact that it serves as a screen. The air comes alredy straight into the engine with the air box and as the engine being longitudinal. Plus, that kind of grill won't protect much from a backfire. So, assuming you have an airfilter in good conditions, you can carefully remove that grill and polish the interior of you MAF safely.

[clg82]

I would start with airlid and catback first. Then I would do headers and ported throttle body.

where is a good place to get a ported throttle body and what exactly does it do in regards to horsepower gains and performance? and finally are they hard to install?:buttkick:

[99blueZ]

where is a good place to get a ported throttle body and what exactly does it do in regards to horsepower gains and performance? and finally are they hard to install?:buttkick:

you can port it yourself or send it out - prices range from $60 -100+ You will get 5-7ish hp. Piece of cake to install. 5 minutes.

[boodster]

You can Google port/polish info. The reason the port/polish would be necessary is, in front of the throttle blade (air filter side) there is alot of "meat" that can be removed to raise the CFM flow rating. Also there is a lip where the throttle blade almost touches the interior of the throttle body that should be removed. Be careful not to mess with the idle air port (bottom right opening) or you will have an erratic idle. If you look in the Pontiac High Performance mag archive, about 4-5 months ago they have an article: 10 free horsepower mods for free that explains everything. Hope this helps!:thumbup:

[mpunklil]

There is so much controversy over the MAF. If it really helped that much, then it would be a no brainer to replace it. Anybody who guts the screen out of one, pretty much deserves to have their motor blown in the end. I dont know about you, but I dont enjoy bent valves. Is a couple of HP really worth it?? You'll spend 100-300 bucks to gain 5-10 hp max. Instead of blowing your money on that, go get yourself a 50 shot of nitrous which is actually a lot safer than descreening your MAF. "Well its a free HP increase to descreen my MAF"....Common sense people, the screen is there to protect your motor. I understand if you are just gonna drag it on the strip, then whatever...but a daily driver? cmon now. Everything was put together, therefore everything will break in time. That includes your airbox, and that also include those very expensive heads and pistons on your ls1.

[mpunklil]

Not to beat a dead horse, but I finally gave in and bought a K&N. Well apparently the people who owned the car before me took out some sort of tray(?) and the filter wasnt sealing into the stock lid. Im very glad the screen was on my MAF, because it was full of leaves and shit. Just goes to show, you never know.

[transamterror]

Volant air filter is sick

[Black_WS6_TX]

Great list... I know I'm looking forward to starting on the new LS! and I'm happy to see that "Brass Headlight Gear" isn't a necessary mod on the LS1's :)

[99lsgun]

i agree this is great i just bought my stock camaro that has ben tuned gona take it to the track this weekend to do a baseline for my quater mile time

[dafizzman1]

now i hear all this talk of lids. i have suncoast creations ram air setup. who ever put it in definately screwed it up. it slides all over the place. i saw volant has a nice setup. think it will fit?????

[dlcarrales]

anyone have any experience with racing chips good or bad? How about the gorillaz?

[99blueZ]

anyone have any experience with racing chips good or bad? How about the gorillaz?

there aren't really chips for these cars. You can get a hand held tuner or a full dyno tune from a performance shop.

A hand held such as the predator is good for a car with light mods, but if you keep modding you will grow out of it. Most people say to wait until you have a good amount of mods (such as full bolt-ons) then get a full dyno tune from a shop. A dyno tune will get you the most power!

[dlcarrales]

Thanks,

After further research, I came up with same conclusion on the chips. My neighbor has a tuner, so I guess I will use his until I do all the MODS I can afford and then get the dyno tune.

[Grimm6058]

1. Best bang for the buck mod by far is a lid. When it comes to the different manufactureres, just remember, a lid is a lid. If you're looking for something cheap and affordable, check out the SLP lids. Great fit overall. I personally run the whisper lid but the fit isn't as good as the SLP.

2. Don't fall for the trick, stay with the stock MAF. DOn't spend the money for a bigger MAF or a Cold air tuned MAF. It will only give you more problems than gains. Detonation is a big issue! The most you should do with the MAF is porting and descreening the MAF which is a free MOD.

3. If you're running a 98-99 LS1, look into an LS6 or FAST manifold. Very good MOD and it makes a difference.

4. Freeing up your exhaust IE headers and cat back not only gives you more bark, but it will help you with the bite later after a cam install.

5. Pushrods are fairly easy to change. If you have an M6, Pushrods should be the first thing to change. The stock length is 7.400". The upgraded Chromoly's are only $150 approximately but it will save you from heartbreak when you ding past redline leading to bend or in my case, pushrods snapped in half.

6. Quarterpanel flex, leaky t-tops, twisted frames, it's all too common in our cars. Invest in a good set of Sub Frame connectors. Have them professionally installed, bolted, or welded on a loaded lift, not a frame off. On a frame off, once the car is lowered onto the tires and the suspension is preloaded, the welds will break and the bolts as well. For those who have questions on the loaded lifts, it's just a lift you drive up on and the whole car is lifted. Most shops have a roll on lift or a pit.

7. Rearend is a weakpoint when it comes to high horsepower. You can run a rebuilt stocker and be fine. The axles are usually what goes first.

8. Nothing beats a custom tune from a performance shop. Check out some local shops to see if they do any custom tuning. A programmer can cause some issues like pulling the wrong timing, wrong A/F Ratios, etc.

There are more mods than can possibly be listed, but this is a basic list. Pick and choose the route you take and do your research. On this site, you'll find a lot of informative sponsors. When shopping for a cam, look into Thunder Racing, they have some great custom Cams with full explanations and a few with Dyno Graphs. This site is full of info as well, do your research and surf through some posts.

Ok guys, if you want to add any more info into this list, feel free to add!

9. A throttle body works well too 85mm or so would be a good mod 150-200
dollars but makes a difference good torque gain as well.

[HurricaneLS1]

Does anyone have a link to a list of all or most free mods? I mean, hey are kinda scattered all over the forum and I was just wondering if they have a list somewhere.

[Wesman]

Does anyone have a link to a list of all or most free mods? I mean, hey are kinda scattered all over the forum and I was just wondering if they have a list somewhere.

Here you go, this is the article:

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0311htp_ls1_fbody_10_free_modifications/

[coolboarder720]

major noob here. both to the forum as well as cars. bought an '00 trans am automatic with what seems to be an after market ram air system. just wondering what i could do to start giving this thing the power it deserves. ~thanks

[dlcarrales]

Did all the free mods above as well as ported throttle body, bigger MAF, headers & cutout.

Need new tires. Best run has been 13.01 in the 1/4

[sjones69]

If most say it isn't good to remove the screen in the MAF, then why don't the after market ones have them?

http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1287

[DarthD]

:iagree:

[Speed Psychosis]

If most say it isn't good to remove the screen in the MAF, then why don't the after market ones have them?

http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1287

lol because aftermarket doesn't care about reliability. same as many aftermarket filters aren't good, especially in dusty areas.


not saying i know if its bad or not but using aftermarket as a source isn't proving anything. now does a lexus with that reliable toyota engine have a screen in its maf? that would be something to look up as proof.

[DarthD]

The factory LS6 Maf does not have a screen either.

I found this for the Lexus - I do not see a screen
http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/knowledge/index.php?page=index_v2&id=152&c=11

[dlcarrales]

http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=23060

I put on the SLP MAF. It does have the screen.

[Speed Psychosis]

i think it might depend on the filter you use. some race filters are thin and a pebble might be able to break through, but i doubt anything would get past a k&n filter.

[cobrakiller99]

what would give me a better boost in power... a volant cold air intake or the SLP "flo pac" kit which includes, f body smooth bellows, k&n air filter, and a high flow slp lid box.