How to launch wanting good times but not tearing up the car on launch?

[ErikElvis]

Hey Guys,

Like the title says. Mods are blackwing airlid, LM2, SFC's and STB. I was thinking dumping the clutch at 3gs and playing with the gas to control wheelspin. Im afraid of breaking the rear and burning out the clutch. Any tips would be great. Taking it to the track for the first time fri.

Thanks,

Erik

[preppy]

With street radials, drop the pressure to about 20pounds, do a decent burnout,let off brake spinning till it grabs, and rev to about 3500 rpm, slightly ride clutch till it grabs and give it hell.

[Mr.B]

What happened to the "good 'ol days" when you would simply red-line the tach and side step the clutch???....that was the only way to launch a standard.

[FasstChevys]

What happened to the "good 'ol days" when you would simply red-line the tach and side step the clutch???....that was the only way to launch a standard.

I don't know, but good luck doing that with a '98 and up LS1!

[ErikElvis]

What happened to the "good 'ol days" when you would simply red-line the tach and side step the clutch???....that was the only way to launch a standard.


Its worth a shot. Ill let you know how it turns out... :bomb:

plan on only doin a few runs so I better make it count.

Thanks guys,

Erik

[Bob'sWS6]

Most of the methods noted will fry your clutch, which is expensive to replace. The best way to launch it on street tires is to leave just a tad bit above idle rpms. I've left around 1300 rpms, and the car neither bogged, nor spun too bad. Mind you you have to roll into the throttle. On the stock gearing I only got a 2.2 sec. 60', but I can get a 2.1 sec. 60' on street tires with the 4.10 gearing. Gears make a world of difference.

Don't worry about the 10 bolt unless you are running slicks, over 400whp, or dumping the car on DR's at relatively high rpms. Some guy on here has over 500whp with the 10 bolt. It's a misconception that they blow out over anything. I think some mustang guy started that.

[third_shift|studios]

Don't worry about the 10 bolt unless you are running slicks, over 400whp, or dumping the car on DR's at relatively high rpms. Some guy on here has over 500whp with the 10 bolt. It's a misconception that they blow out over anything. I think some mustang guy started that.

:lmao: :haha: that was good

[Hawk241]

Bob, I got 2.0 and 2.1's all night with my 95 z28 A4 with cai and catback with 2.73's. I think your 60 ft. is on the slow end.

[Bob'sWS6]

Bob, I got 2.0 and 2.1's all night with my 95 z28 A4 with cai and catback with 2.73's. I think your 60 ft. is on the slow end.

You've got an A4. Comparing an A4 with an M6 is not an apples to apples comparison. Your car is practically dummy proof. My buddy had an A4 Camaro SS, and use to cut 2.0 sec. 60' times. He switched over to an M6 in a GTO (6.0 liter), and now knows how hard it is to launch a manual F Body. Autos are the way to go for drag racing, but I don't feel like it takes any skill to drive an auto (Sorry if I offend auto owners, i've raced an automatic car before, didn't take much skill).

[Hawk241]

No offense taken, your right, my last two f-bodies were m6', and it was frustrating to say the least launching them. I was thinking of your 4.10 and mods would of got you a better 60ft. But maybe its worse/trickier now...

[Bob'sWS6]

No offense taken, your right, my last two f-bodies were m6', and it was frustrating to say the least launching them. I was thinking of your 4.10 and mods would of got you a better 60ft. But maybe its worse/trickier now...

I think track prep may pay a factor. I can't say that either one of the tracks i've gone to spray vht, except for when a honda explodes on the track. I'm not the greatest driving wise, I just like to give advise on what worked for me. I usually outlaunch people by a car and a half out of the hole when I illegally street race. Dunno, I don't powershift, which may be the factor (Don't wanna try it, to dangerous).

If I were to get a serious car intended for 1/4 mile racing i'd buy an automatic, slap in some gears, stall converter, drag radials, and tuning. It would be nice to have a 1.7 sec. 60' regularly, and look at Evo owners face as I kept up with them out of the hole. Alas it is not to be yet :(

[Hawk241]

I think track prep may pay a factor. I can't say that either one of the tracks i've gone to spray vht, except for when a honda explodes on the track. I'm not the greatest driving wise, I just like to give advise on what worked for me. I usually outlaunch people by a car and a half out of the hole when I illegally street race. Dunno, I don't powershift, which may be the factor (Don't wanna try it, to dangerous).

If I were to get a serious car intended for 1/4 mile racing i'd buy an automatic, slap in some gears, stall converter, drag radials, and tuning. It would be nice to have a 1.7 sec. 60' regularly, and look at Evo owners face as I kept up with them out of the hole. Alas it is not to be yet :(

Hey I took the 02 Firehwak A4 to the track tonite, I am estatic! I got low 2.0 60ft's. Reved up till it to about 1,700 and let it go, got an 13.3 at 104 mph, totally stock slp car. F.Y.I., slp blackwing lid and slp exhaust, 345 h.p. according to slp...8.6 1/8 was on the slip as well. Cant wait till mods.!

[PEWTER Z]

I think track prep may pay a factor. I can't say that either one of the tracks i've gone to spray vht, except for when a honda explodes on the track. I'm not the greatest driving wise, I just like to give advise on what worked for me. I usually outlaunch people by a car and a half out of the hole when I illegally street race. Dunno, I don't powershift, which may be the factor (Don't wanna try it, to dangerous).

If I were to get a serious car intended for 1/4 mile racing i'd buy an automatic, slap in some gears, stall converter, drag radials, and tuning. It would be nice to have a 1.7 sec. 60' regularly, and look at Evo owners face as I kept up with them out of the hole. Alas it is not to be yet :(

I can keep up with EVO's at the track as well by idling at the light, and stabbing the gas at the last amber. I cut 1.70-1.80's all night long with my bald DR's.

[Bob'sWS6]

I can keep up with EVO's at the track as well by idling at the light, and stabbing the gas at the last amber. I cut 1.70-1.80's all night long with my bald DR's.

See Elvis, you and I have problems cause we bought M6's. We can win on the dyno though :p

[PEWTER Z]

See Elvis, you and I have problems cause we bought M6's. We can win on the dyno though :p

True, but it's not the high HP numbers on the dyno that count, it's the low ET numbers on the time sheet that count.

[RWB]

I think I have only cut lower than 2's a couple of times. M6, nitto's subframe connectors, panard and control arms are all SLP. I worked hard at it, cut good reaction times, but couldn't get the 60's down where they should be. Extremly frustrating. I ran 12.70's no engine mods. I did manage to outdrive a few cobra's that thought I was easy pickin's.

[ErikElvis]

Well screw the 60 foots! Ill just make more HP to get the times I want. Ha!

Oh in the heads up racing at the track do the R/T's really matter or when you start movin?

[INMY01TA]

I ran 12.70's no engine mods. I did manage to outdrive a few cobra's that thought I was easy pickin's.
Nice. 12 bolt, Mcleod clutch, and a steel driveshaft. I leave at 5,500. :devil: I cut 1.7's on 16 inch ET Streets. Not great but I was pleased.

[1959ls1]

In my 99 Formula M6 with Yukon 4.11 gears, lid, K&N, B&M ripper, on some crappy street radials ran a 2.0993 60ft and an 8.7642 in the 8th mile at 83.40mph on sat. night, it was only my 2nd time at the strip ever, my first was friday and im hooked. My buddy swears once I put the spohn torque arm in Ill drop at least 2-3tenths off that and maybe I could pull a 1.9??? in 60ft.

[shady milkman]

Well screw the 60 foots! Ill just make more HP to get the times I want. Ha!

Oh in the heads up racing at the track do the R/T's really matter or when you start movin?

no..the e/t doesn't start untill the sensor is trippped...r/t only matters in top fuel and street racing

[stevegrizzle]

i have cut consistant 1.8-9's with just drag radials on an m6 leaving at 3700-3800 and just dumping the clutch. Its all about the fear factor of breaking something. Drive it like ya stole it. my car also weighs 3340 with 2 gals of gas.
I have no power windows/doors/seats/mirrors. the track i went to also has very good prep.

[01T-TopToy]

You've got an A4. Comparing an A4 with an M6 is not an apples to apples comparison. Your car is practically dummy proof. My buddy had an A4 Camaro SS, and use to cut 2.0 sec. 60' times. He switched over to an M6 in a GTO (6.0 liter), and now knows how hard it is to launch a manual F Body. Autos are the way to go for drag racing, but I don't feel like it takes any skill to drive an auto (Sorry if I offend auto owners, i've raced an automatic car before, didn't take much skill).

None taken here, it's about pre-thought and mods to me. I know I wanna drag it or at least have some fun with my girl. Thought long and hard on the m6 but the A4 won out, now that I have the shift pressures reset and a stall speed converter I am happy that I did. :flex: Simply can't outshift an A4 man..I have run a couple SS's Z's with sticks that are near my level of mod's and I remain happy too, ran a couple with better mods and I wasn't so happy heh ( envious of the power) but happy for those guys. I dont get the whole m6 A4 war issue, it's run what ya brung aint it? Some dudes fight over dumb arse stuff tho :nana:

[6sw00]

hm.. my 0-60 ft completely stock is 2.0 and ran 13.4 @ 105 so i guess the firehawk isnt all that great?? i just got slp subframes put on and soon getting the lid. wonder what ill be running then.