Best shocks/struts

[Mr. Luos]

To use with the Eibach ProKit???

Gets some drag track time, but mostly street.


Actually, for that matter...what struts/shocks fit with those springs period?

[viper99ta]

Koni SA's, revalved Bilsteins both work well with the Eibach's. I ran option 2 for 4 years , loved it.

[Mr. Luos]

What about KYB AGX??

[viper99ta]

No experience personally with them, but Sam Strano has said for years they are not enough to handle the Eibach's.

[ninobrn99]

What about KYB AGX??

:no: they're made for the stock springs, but are just a cheap and minor upgrade to stock. Revalved bilsteins or Koni's as mentioned. Id suggest the DA's since they're adjustable in car. If you go with the revalved they're gonna be valved for those spring rates, so if you decide to change springs, your probably gonna have to do shocks/struts also. the adjustable koni's are worth the money IMO. I went with bilstein HDs since they suit my needs and my budget at the time.

[ErikElvis]

I had the KYB AGX's on my eclipse. Car sat uneven. Redid them... swapped sides and still didnt sit evenly. I may have adusted them twice in 6 yrs. Sooo I swapped them out with some tokicos I believe and the car sat fine. I wouldnt get adjustables again.

[Ed Blown Vert]

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http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22868

[Hot Black Trans-Am]

I have the AGX's and pro-kit now and they work fine and are more than enough to handle the pro-kit. I havn't had the time to mess with differnt settings much yet. I'd go for Koni SA's if I did it again.

[Mr. Luos]

Well I ordered the AGX for the rears...gonna see how that works for now.
Ordered before I saw the responses.

Guess I find out now. :lol:

[third_shift|studios]

Luos, for as much money that you put in that engine, you'll want double adjustables. I think Qa1's will work for you

[heliskiier]

Koni SA's...just awesome. DA's only needed if you're goin road racin.

[Eugenio_SS]

Koni SA's...just awesome. DA's only needed if you're goin road racin.

and even then.... DAs can be overkill and give you more room to litterally screw up the suspension.

[Mr. Luos]

Okay...should I try out the KYB AGX??

Or just go with a revalved Bilstein and try to get a good amount of my $$ back for the KYB's?
I don't have a lot to spend right now.

[Eugenio_SS]

Okay...should I try out the KYB AGX??

Or just go with a revalved Bilstein and try to get a good amount of my $$ back for the KYB's?
I don't have a lot to spend right now.

don't go KYB... way better with revalved Bilsteins.

[maroonZ]

I just bought Koni DA from SLP on Thursday for $700 for complete set. They were trying to clear them out.

There should have been 2 sets left in stock.

I have them installed in a couple of weeks

[Mr. Luos]

I just can't afford that.

Revalved Bilsteins seems like the best route for me.

[ninobrn99]

they are..go with them...at the least.

[Azrael]

Koni's are the best, followed by revalved Bilsteins...

KYB is just an acronym for Keeps You Bouncing! :yup:

[Eugenio_SS]

Koni's are the best, followed by revalved Bilsteins...

KYB is just an acronym for Keeps You Bouncing! :yup:

even your smiley has kyb :rotfl:

[Chad97z]

IMO you don't need a shock that really resists a lot of movement unless you slam the car way low and its constantly bouncing. A 1" drop won't create a lot of bounce. I have factory SS shocks on the rear of my car, and it is has the eibach 1" to 1.5" drop kit. I dont remember how much drop I have now. And there is ZERO bounce in the rear. The front I have installed bilstein because there is more weight up there to control. However, I would avoid buying "Monroe heavy duty". Those are not heavy duty enough for an extreme drop. I know because I tried it. haha Its like the shock would not respond fast enough to the spring action. So if you want to save some money, just get some cheaper shocks for the rear and something more heavy duty for the front.

If you really want to elminate a lot of lean in the car when cornering, get a 35mm front anti-sway bar and the matching rear anti-sway bar. I removed my factory ones and oh my gosh! soooo much better. Drastic sotp difference.

[Mr. Luos]

Not really looking for handling as much as a good ride and good stance.

Gonna try the revalved Bilsteins.

[Chad97z]

Not really looking for handling as much as a good ride and good stance.

Gonna try the revalved Bilsteins.


well shocks and struts dont effect the stance or ride height. Just controls bounce.

And the lower you drop, the more bouncey a car can get, and you will feel the bumps a bit more.

I personally would not go more than 1.5" drop.

[Mr. Luos]

I have the Eibach ProKit on the car already.

Stance is great, ride sucks. That is what I am looking to improve.

http://home.comcast.net/~mrluoss/Drive33.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~mrluoss/Drive27.JPG

[Chad97z]

I wonder if BMR's are good? I'd be interested in checking those out.

[Mr. Luos]

BMR makes struts and shocks??

I am not changing the springs.
I have looked at the Koni's, but I just cannot afford that right now.

[Chad97z]

oh.. BMR makes springs.. or used to. But You car is very low. It looks a little lower than mine. Not sure how much drop you have on it. But if you have a 2" drop, you're going to have to live with a rough ride unless you want to change the springs. I would leave a heavier duty strut on the front and put a lighter one on the rear. That might help a lot. But like I said, I have factory SS shocks on the rear of my car and its not harsh at all and there is no bounce at all. And thats all I want it to do. So you might be able to use KYB on the rear with no problem. I'm not sure with your drop if they would be ok on the front though.

[KageSS]

I have the Eibach ProKit on the car already.

Stance is great, ride sucks. That is what I am looking to improve.

http://home.comcast.net/~mrluoss/Drive33.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~mrluoss/Drive27.JPG

Stance is the best i've seen yet :yup: my PO.... How would you rate the ride now to stock ? scale 1-10

[Mr. Luos]

Thanks!!
ProKit is supposed to be a 1.2" drop. Pretty sure it is closer to 1.75".

3 or 4.
Bumps are rough, but it could actually be worse. Cornering is great, but if you hit a bump...be ready for a ride. Smooth roads are fine, but if there are little 'waves' in the road it gets bad.
Ride is REALLY bad when there is passengers in the back. Rarely happens, but it can be felt.
The ProKit is one of the stiffest springs out there, thus the reason they require a strong strut/shock set-up.

[KageSS]

Mr. Slowass, you have 315's on the rears right, so do i. No problems with the drop or did you have to mod it ?

[Chad97z]

I used to have a 96 black formula with bilstiens all the way around and a eibach pro kit. same springs I have now.. But that car skipped around on the back whenever you'd hit a bump and going in a curve and hitting a bump was really bad. The car wouldnt hold the ground in the rear. My camaro doesnt do that.. but like I said, I dont have bilstiens on the rear.

[Mr. Luos]

Mr. Slowass, you have 315's on the rears right, so do i. No problems with the drop or did you have to mod it ?
I did have some minor rubbing when I first installed the springs and the wheels.

Once I got the LCA's and the brackets in they sat in the wheels great, no rubbing.

[KageSS]

You didn't do any mods to bump stops at all ? And your wheels, do they have the same offset as replica ZR1's ?

[Mr. Luos]

Nope.
No hammering the body either.
No rolling the fenders.

I have heard though that the TTII's fit better than most other 17x11 wheel.

[KageSS]

Nope.
No hammering the body either.
No rolling the fenders.

I have heard though that the TTII's fit better than most other 17x11 wheel.

Koni's are freaking expensive, no shit...... but that's the way to go, ha? ProKit and Koni's, to get the perf/comf. ride... As you can tell i don't know shit about suspension drops on F-bodies.. Lifted Trucks yes..

[Mr. Luos]

I wasn't all that familiar with it either.
Learned once I started playing around.

I believe the offset if a touch different from the ZR1's to the TTII's.

Couple more pics of the stance...
http://home.comcast.net/~mrluoss/Red_Rocks30.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~mrluoss/Drive31.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~mrluoss/Red_Rocks28.JPG

I can go down my sloped curb without scraping pretty easily. If I go straight off it, it does catch that radiator air dam.

[Azrael]

IMO you don't need a shock that really resists a lot of movement unless you slam the car way low and its constantly bouncing. A 1" drop won't create a lot of bounce. I have factory SS shocks on the rear of my car, and it is has the eibach 1" to 1.5" drop kit. I dont remember how much drop I have now. And there is ZERO bounce in the rear. The front I have installed bilstein because there is more weight up there to control. However, I would avoid buying "Monroe heavy duty". Those are not heavy duty enough for an extreme drop. I know because I tried it. haha Its like the shock would not respond fast enough to the spring action. So if you want to save some money, just get some cheaper shocks for the rear and something more heavy duty for the front.

If you really want to elminate a lot of lean in the car when cornering, get a 35mm front anti-sway bar and the matching rear anti-sway bar. I removed my factory ones and oh my gosh! soooo much better. Drastic sotp difference.

Hmm... I think you don't know what it is like to have good dampeners, because the stock deCarbons you have in the rear (even if they are the upgraded Bilsteins) can not dampen the higher spring rate of lowering springs. Shoot they do a terrible job with the stock springs!

Hey but whatever floats your boat; or rearend for that matter... :dot:

[Azrael]

Koni's are freaking expensive, no shit...... but that's the way to go, ha? ProKit and Koni's, to get the perf/comf. ride... As you can tell i don't know shit about suspension drops on F-bodies.. Lifted Trucks yes..

I still am baffled by the "Koni's are expensive..." arguement. Shoot I have as much in tires as I do in my Koni's and I will have to replace the tires 50 times before touching the shocks again (especially with Koni's warranty)...

Shoot another 10k-20k miles before I have to replace my 315 Nitto DRs again! If I take it easy on them... (which isn't going to happen... hahah)

[KageSS]

I still am baffled by the "Koni's are expensive..." arguement. Shoot I have as much in tires as I do in my Koni's and I will have to replace the tires 50 times before touching the shocks again (especially with Koni's warranty)...

Shoot another 10k-20k miles before I have to replace my 315 Nitto DRs again! If I take it easy on them... (which isn't going to happen... hahah)

So what are you saying? Go with Koni's and ProKit? I want perf/comf. if posible.......

[Azrael]

So what are you saying? Go with Koni's and ProKit? I want perf/comf. if posible.......

It is what I would recommend at the very least if you want to go with the Pro-Kit. Koni's will work the best for handling, and if you are like me; you can tweak them (adjust them) for the personal touch and for track appearances!

Revalved Bilsteins will also work, but you just lose the adjustability if you find it isn't what you wanted or needed. All I am saying though it is your decision and your money, but my mind was made up when I compared the cost to the tires I was replacing at the same time and did a double take! The Koni's will be on our car long after I have ripped the Nittos to bare threads! :notworthy: