Monsoon help plz

[dayoungone]

I have never heard of the monsoon car audio system. Is it anygood? Anyone got any links. Also what models do they come one thanks guys.

[DrMilhouse]

monsoon is the factory system that is in either camaro or firebird or TA. It's not that great, not horrible.

[dayoungone]

DOH i shouldve known :woot:

[BrandonDrecksage]

its fucking horrible..the door speakers blow out ever other week and sound like shit. the stock system in my old ford focus sounded better. not to mention if you want to change the speakers from non-mooson type..its really annoying.

[eddierox]

Almost all factory stereo systems are fairely crappy.
The Monsoon sounds prety good for a "Factory High Performance" stereo and wasn't meant to play loud like you would with aftermarket systems capable of infinite decibals.
The monsoon was GM's cheap answer to having a nice stereo for its high perf cars like camaro & corvette and obviously were more concerend with the cars perfromance than its stereo performance.
The Monsoon CD head unit is the true culprit for shitty sound and you can expect it to start skipping cd's & dysfunctioning fairely quickly.
Its always recommended to change head units and if you have steering wheel controls you will need to have a sensor installed to use the aftermarket head unit on the controls.
Its always recommended to swap out the whole system for aftermarket.
You keep the stock monsoon system in case you want to sell the car as prospective prefer to have the OEM stereo to keep the integrity of the camaro.

[third_shift|studios]

its fucking horrible..the door speakers blow out ever other week and sound like shit. the stock system in my old ford focus sounded better. not to mention if you want to change the speakers from non-mooson type..its really annoying.

whao...sucks to be you, mine kicks ass. the woofers blew and i replaced them with 2x10's and an amp =)

[ur jlus]

whao...sucks to be you, mine kicks ass. the woofers blew and i replaced them with 2x10's and an amp =)
My door speakers blew on my Monsoon system too. I replaced them with some Infinity speakers And the 12" sub and amp are in the trunk. Oops not much room for the boot for the vert.

[supermando]

When my woofers blew I just replaced them straight out with some Alpine Type R's. There's not as much bass because the originals are DVC but it sounds OK. I'll probably get a new amp to replace the factory amp to get more power to them. I'll see how that goes.

[GatorSS]

its fucking horrible..the door speakers blow out ever other week and sound like shit. the stock system in my old ford focus sounded better. not to mention if you want to change the speakers from non-mooson type..its really annoying.
My driver's door speaker is blown.:brick: So, I guess I'll have to get another stock speaker, or get rid of the Monsoon system all together. :dunno: I don't feel like replacing the whole system right now, so I guess I'll get another stock speaker. But I know it's gonna blow sooner or later, too.

[sparkymarktx]

I gotta agree - the Monsoon system is horrible. Well, let me clarify - I mean to say that it's NOT RELIABLE. It sounds/plays great while it's working. I've had two T/A's (1995 and 2000) and I've had the CD player quit working FIVE TIMES. On the 1995 T/A, the CD player went out twice while it was under warranty, so I had it replaced with new ones both times, and then it went out again when the warranty was expired. When some fool rearended my 1995 T/A and totalled it, I got a new 2000 T/A WS6. The CD player went out once when it was under warranty, was replaced with a new one, and then it went out again when the warranty had expired. So now I'm driving around listening to the radio... Can't afford to fix the CD player - it's estimated (at the Chevy dealership) at around $250 to fix it. The speakers, on the other hand, have NEVER given me any trouble. Go figure. I hear that's unusual.

[MdFormula350]

wow i enjoyed my monsoon system on the way back with my car, way better than my thirdgen stock system! it sounds darn good i think its 500 watts also thats more than enough for me.

[supermando]

My monsoon sounds good except the volume control on the deck is starting to crap out. It only works half the time. Luckily the volume control on the steering wheel works fine.

[GatorSS]

wow i enjoyed my monsoon system on the way back with my car, way better than my thirdgen stock system! it sounds darn good i think its 500 watts also thats more than enough for me.
:yup: ...waaaay better than 3rd gen system. Not the best, obviously, but a big improvement. Well, except maybe for those darn door speakers. :umm: My driver's door speaker is blown. :brick:

[IronBird]

My monsoon sounds good except the volume control on the deck is starting to crap out. It only works half the time. Luckily the volume control on the steering wheel works fine.


:yup::yup::yup:

[98-LS1]

my CD player on my monsoon quit working which sucks because I actually like the factory system, guess my kenwood is going in

[SeVeReDiStOrTiOn]

I like the monsoon...sounds better than any vehicle i've owned

[IronBird]

In 98, I dont know about later models, the Monsoon also came in the Hummer.

[Shpoone]

I'm still using the stock Monsoon head unit, in order to maintain the stock appearance of the car. But, I went with Eclipse speakers all around, and a JL Audio 300 Watt x 4 amp, with a JL Audio 10" subwoofer in a custom molded box in the hollow in the driver side rear quarter. Doesn't sound too bad, and I can turn it up without the weak-ass "subs" provided with the Monsoon system puking their guts out. :Puke:

[Mudvayne]

Why don't you guys with cd player problems just get an aftermarket hu

[MadSeason]

Why don't you guys with cd player problems just get an aftermarket hu

simple

1. Stock Appearence
2. Use of steering controlls without pricey adaptors
3. If you have monsoon or bose, you'd have to rewire everything in your car and replace speakers, also ditch the amp in most cases
4. 12 Disc cd changer won't work without additional adaptors or harnesses
5. made in the USA

[MadSeason]

BTW anyone having trouble with monsoon head units, i've basically taken them apart and can tell you how to fix what may be wrong with it.

[Mudvayne]

simple

1. Stock Appearence
2. Use of steering controlls without pricey adaptors
3. If you have monsoon or bose, you'd have to rewire everything in your car and replace speakers, also ditch the amp in most cases
4. 12 Disc cd changer won't work without additional adaptors or harnesses
5. made in the USA
I'll have to find this write up I saw where you can do 2-4.

/begins search/

[MadSeason]

I'll have to find this write up I saw where you can do 2-4.

/begins search/

there's no cheep way around it unless you want to cut factory wires, adaptors are for everything and usually run at a minimum of 15 bucks per each one you need. i know it can be done

[Mudvayne]

there's no cheep way around it unless you want to cut factory wires, adaptors are for everything and usually run at a minimum of 15 bucks per each one you need. i know it can be done
All you have to do is get a wiring harness, you can still use the stock amp. Only thing that would be expensive is the harness for your steering wheel, I dono where the hell you got the idea you'd have to re-wire everything if you get an aftermarket hu

[MadSeason]

All you have to do is get a wiring harness, you can still use the stock amp. Only thing that would be expensive is the harness for your steering wheel, I dono where the hell you got the idea you'd have to re-wire everything if you get an aftermarket hu

Do you under stand any part of Ohm's Law? Guess not, you're only 17. There are no line level outputs in the harnesses for aftermarket head units to goto the amp and they are not compatiable with the the speakers in the system since they're 2ohm. The only thing an after market head unit will run properly with a harness is the front tweeters and rear fill speakers in the trunk in a monsoon system. The amp won't work right at all and you will have no woofers in the system unless you redneck it and want them to blow often due to mismatched impedance. In a Bose System the speaker crossovers are within the Headunit and will not funtion properly at all without replacing the whole system.

[Mudvayne]

Do you under stand any part of Ohm's Law? Guess not, you're only 17. There are no line level outputs in the harnesses for aftermarket head units to goto the amp and they are not compatiable with the the speakers in the system since they're 2ohm. The only thing an after market head unit will run properly with a harness is the front tweeters and rear fill speakers in the trunk in a monsoon system. The amp won't work right at all and you will have no woofers in the system unless you redneck it and want them to blow often due to mismatched impedance. In a Bose System the speaker crossovers are within the Headunit and will not funtion properly at all without replacing the whole system.
Yes I do understand ohm's laws (being in a physics and principles of tech class) The monsoon hu is 4 ohms, so it powers the front tweeter and the rear mid/tweeters, then the rest of the system is powered by the amp which runs at 2 ohms So if an aftermarket 4 ohm hu replaces the monsoon hu (already at 4 ohms) it shouldn't make a difference. As long as you have a hu with speaker outputs you'll be fine

I'll post up the link for you after I get 10 posts

[MadSeason]

An Aftermarket Head Unit doesn't help the fact you're sending double the wattage to the factory speakers that are 4ohm if the Head unit is even at a minimum of 50 watts RMS. The total for the monsoon is 500watts on the model that makes the most power and that's only peak. Peak watts are 75x4 for the woofers, 30x2 for the front tweeters and 30x2 for back, and 40x2 for the mid bass in back. If you want to properly add an aftermarket HU you will need to replace all of those speakers since RMS wattage is usually around 1/3rd peak power, basically saying with that aftermarket head unit you're pumping at a minimum 4 times the amount of power those speakers can properly handle

[Mudvayne]

An Aftermarket Head Unit doesn't help the fact you're sending double the wattage to the factory speakers that are 4ohm if the Head unit is even at a minimum of 50 watts RMS. The total for the monsoon is 500watts on the model that makes the most power and that's only peak. Peak watts are 75x4 for the woofers, 30x2 for the front tweeters and 30x2 for back, and 40x2 for the mid bass in back. If you want to properly add an aftermarket HU you will need to replace all of those speakers since RMS wattage is usually around 1/3rd peak power, basically saying with that aftermarket head unit you're pumping at a minimum 4 times the amount of power those speakers can properly handle
Now I agree with you

[rotwiler]

Do you under stand any part of Ohm's Law? Guess not, you're only 17. There are no line level outputs in the harnesses for aftermarket head units to goto the amp and they are not compatiable with the the speakers in the system since they're 2ohm. The only thing an after market head unit will run properly with a harness is the front tweeters and rear fill speakers in the trunk in a monsoon system. The amp won't work right at all and you will have no woofers in the system unless you redneck it and want them to blow often due to mismatched impedance. In a Bose System the speaker crossovers are within the Headunit and will not funtion properly at all without replacing the whole system.

Originally Posted by MadSeason
simple

1. Stock Appearence
2. Use of steering controlls without pricey adaptors-PAC swi-x $45
3. If you have monsoon(not true) or bose(true), you'd have to rewire everything in your car and replace speakers, also ditch the amp in most cases
4. 12 Disc cd changer won't work without additional adaptors or harnesses-can buy one for the aftermarket hu if you want one
5. made in the USA-? My car was made in Canada, has german shocks, headlight bulbs are made in Japan....Is any newer car %100 US made?

The Monsoon system does not require any type of special adaptors or line converters like the bose system. The Monsoon deck is 4 ohm, the Monsoon amp in the rear well converts it to a 2ohm load. Simple upgrade for the speakers is a set of Infinity 62.7i kappa's, the Infinity is 2 ohm and has 2 inputs(1 for the 6.5, 1 for the tweeter like the stock Monsoon speakers), connect the 6.5 to the Monsoon and let the built in crossovers work on the mids, wire the highs with the supplied crossover. A pac SWi-x costs about $45 and works great for keeping steering wheel controls. A simple $7 wire harness to not have to cut the factory harness is all you need. I have a Kenwood mp922 and sounds much better than the factory Monsoon hu. The speakers don't distort as fast as with the Monsoon and I can adjust how much bass I want to go through the stock speakers. Hearing about how much better the Infinty 62.7i's sound it will be my next upgrade. I have never blown a stock Monsoon speaker and I listen to it at around 3/4 volume most of the time and actually sounds great compared to stock. I use a Mtx amp and 2 Memphis 10's for my bass in a Millhouse box. I bought the Kenwood mp922 refurbished with warranty and pac swi-x for $150,a $7 harness and a kit for install I found on ebay for $2 plus $2 shipping, and also a antenna adaptor. Since the Kenwood plays mp3's who needs a 12 disc changer. I sold both the Monsoon Hu and changer for around $200. I am a member of 2 major F body clubs in my area and I only know of 1 or 2 people still running a stock HU. If you have ever put one in a car with a Monsoon stereo your whole outlook would change. I was worried when I first wanted to change the HU since I had so many problems with a cadillac I had and a Bose system. The Monsoon is not the same type of system. Firehawks I am pretty sure have a little different wiring for the 6.5's than the Camaro. I have spent hours researching the Monsoon system to ugrade it and never once have seen anyone in 100's of posts complain a aftermarket HU messed up the Monsoon amp or sounded worse than the stock HU.

You can look at crutchfields, shows all that is needed is a typical 1985-up GM wire harness for the Monsoon they include free or can buy for $9.99 without a hu purchase.

[MadSeason]

Hey Rot, you replaced the stock speakers, which completely nulls the argument and point I was trying to get across with the kid. I own a camaro with the bose and a firebird with the monsoon. I know how much harnesses and aftermarket systems cost, I put one in the camaro and it sounds awesome. I'm currently upgrading my monsoon and will be replacing the HU, which means I'll replace the speakers, and if i'm going to have those be nice I'm going to go the whole 9 yards and replace the amp for something more powerful. It's a chain reaction that you can't just swap out one thing at once and have it sound nice for a while without taking the risk of damaging the speakers that are currently there. If you underpower or overpower, things will blow. Human ear hears distortion when it's at 10% so by the time your stock speakers are sounding bad, they're long gone.

My comment about rewiring did not mean pulling new wires, cutting into the harness, ect... It simply ment for bose, you toss it all out. for monsoon, its best to replace it in chunks, not piece by piece or you'll blow aftermarket speakers with the stock HU or vise versa. Also those speakers you bought, they are good, but the tweeters will blow since you're pushing a 2ohm load from the HU to them, it's only a matter of time. If I understood you correctly the Woofer is still being run by the amp, which is fine, but the Monsoon amp also adds a lot of distortion to the woofer system we can't hear

[rotwiler]

I haven't replaced any speakers yet, still all factory except the HU and I put some 4 inch Pioneers in the hatch. I am running a seperate MTX amp with Memphis audio 10's. This week I am ordering some Infinity kappas(62.7i's require less power) I was going to get the seperates, but the 62.7i's are less watts rms and the seperates are 90 watts rms, so using the Monsoon amp should push the lower rms ones better. I did read some posts that people were asking about the 2 ohm tweeters running off the 4 ohm HU and what was said by the audio guru's was that Tweeters vary with their ohms and rarely get down to two ohms of resistance because of the way they are designed, so there wouldn't be a problem running them. The rear seat has a sub only, so I may wait on them. I seen only certain freeair subs work good, but I haven't taken the cover off yet. The fronts for mids and better highs is what I am really after now. I was even thinking about using the rear 4 inch connection and connection a 3 way in the rear seat spots so it runs off the Kenwood. The hu is only something like 25 watts rms, so not sure how much of a improvment it would be if any.

[WhiteBird00]

Do you under stand any part of Ohm's Law? Guess not, you're only 17. There are no line level outputs in the harnesses for aftermarket head units to goto the amp and they are not compatiable with the the speakers in the system since they're 2ohm. The only thing an after market head unit will run properly with a harness is the front tweeters and rear fill speakers in the trunk in a monsoon system. The amp won't work right at all and you will have no woofers in the system unless you redneck it and want them to blow often due to mismatched impedance. In a Bose System the speaker crossovers are within the Headunit and will not funtion properly at all without replacing the whole system.
You know, I vowed I wouldn't come back to this site after all the problems (and the loss of post count) but this drivel really needs correction.

There is absolutely nothing special about a Monsoon head unit. It is simply a Delco radio with an extra label saying Monsoon on the face (some older models don't even have that). The difference in a Monsoon system is all in the amp and speakers. The amp takes speaker-level input from the HU and provides amplified output and crossover function to the 2-ohm speakers (all except the tweeters in coupes, all speakers in convertibles).

So, you can plug in any GM head unit that fits or any aftermarket HU that has normal 4-ohm speaker-level output. All you need is the harness adapter that comes with the mounting kit (or can be purchased separately for a few dollars). No other modifications are necessary - the HU will provide speaker-level input to the Monsoon amp which will, in turn, power the factory speakers. Regardless of the power capability of the HU, it's the Monsoon amp that will power the speakers so no speaker upgrades are necessary. That's not to say that speaker upgrades can't be done - just that it's not necessary.

The only way rewiring would be required is if you replace or bypass the Monsoon amp. If you do that then you would also have to consider if the replacement amp is stable into 2-ohms or if you have to change the speakers.

You are correct that Bose systems are completely different but, even there, you can buy adapters to allow an aftermarket head unit to run with the Bose individually-amplified, high-impedance speakers.

Sorry, I don't mean to come down too hard here but I hate to see people get misdirected by incorrect information when they come here for help.

[MadSeason]

OMG I didn't realize I was misdirecting people by aready saying what you just did! I never said the monsoon headunit what a god send, it blows chunks in my book and was mearly making sure anybody who swaps it out does it right or they'll be opening their pocket book back up in the future due to improper installation. Go whine to your mamma about your post count, Ed can fix that.

You apparently didn't read anything I had to say and just bypassed it thinking hey just swap out the head unit and be done with it. You still have to match wattage and ohms up buddy, so shut it...

[WhiteBird00]

OMG I didn't realize I was misdirecting people by aready saying what you just did! I never said the monsoon headunit what a god send, it blows chunks in my book and was mearly making sure anybody who swaps it out does it right or they'll be opening their pocket book back up in the future due to improper installation. Go whine to your mamma about your post count, Ed can fix that.

You apparently didn't read anything I had to say and just bypassed it thinking hey just swap out the head unit and be done with it. You still have to match wattage and ohms up buddy, so shut it...
Now that's exactly the misinformation I was refering to - you don't have to match anything! You just remove the original head unit and plug a new one in. It's as simple as that!

If, and only if, you want to replace the Monsoon amp then you have to either get a replacement amp that is 2-ohm stable or you have to replace the speakers. If all you want to do is replace the head unit then just replace it. No matching of ohms or watts is necessary because the speakers run off the amp (so they're already matched to the amps output) and the amp takes speaker-level input - no pre-amp output from the replacement head unit is necessary (nor would it work).

Do a little research before you go shooting your mouth off.

[MadSeason]

The only thing that runs off of the amp are the woofers!, the Head unit supplies power to everything else, if you throw something with more RMS than the speakers can handle its not going to work. My reasearch was done by tearing a couple of Fbody cars up from experience, so you can stop shooting your mouth off

[WhiteBird00]

The only thing that runs off of the amp are the woofers!, the Head unit supplies power to everything else, if you throw something with more RMS than the speakers can handle its not going to work. My reasearch was done by tearing a couple of Fbody cars up from experience, so you can stop shooting your mouth off
I guess you didn't look closely enough (nor read my other post). In a coupe all speakers except the front and rear tweeters are powered by the Monsoon amp. In a convertible ALL speakers (including the tweeters) are powered by the amp.

The Monsoon system will work fine (well, at least as good as it is from the factory) with an aftermarket head unit. There are very, very few head units with built-in amps that would overpower the system. The logical reason for that is that the better, more expensive aftermarket units don't add more power - they add more features and better quality components. This is because the manufacturer knows that the kind of customer buying high-end equipment will be connecting to high-end amps using the unit's pre-amp output. They have no reason to build head units with high-powered output because that's not what their customers are looking for. In fact, the average RMS output for systems at Crutchfield is somewhere around 20 watts RMS x4. The 500 watt (peak) Monsoon system is about 250 watts RMS into 10 speakers for a 25 watt RMS per speaker power capability so they can certainly handle almost any aftermarket head unit's power. (Unfortunately, the distortion from the stock amp would be so bad at that level that nobody would want to listen to it.)

Almost all aftermarket head units are designed to run with 4-ohm speakers since that has become the industry standard. Guess what? The Monsoon amp and the tweeters are all 4-ohm. So, that's another thing that you don't have to worry about.

Now, I suppose if you really went looking you might be able to find a head unit that put out 50 watts RMS per channel into 8 ohms (although I've never seen one). This could potentially be a problem. But who goes looking for oddball stuff like that? The average person upgrading is going to buy mainstream equipment from a major manufacturer and have absolutely no problem just plugging it in and using it.

You're so busy trying to impress people with your "knowledge" that you over-complicate what is really a simple swap. As Freud said, "sometimes a cigar is just a cigar".

[MadSeason]

The "average consumer" you are talking about is going to walk into best buy or circuit city and buy a 50x4 rms head unit and blow the cheap 10-15 watt rms speakers. yes a 25rms head unit is better and we established this before you started posting here.

I did read your whole post and I am not refering to just the convertable. BTW if I was listening to you and just swapped the head unit out, great.. but oh shit now my steering controls don't work. Forgot something did you? But we mentioned that earlier too and you forgot to bring that up like everything else.

no where did i mention 8ohms in a head unit. if ohms was mentioned anywhere it was when buying replacement speakers. freud also had an obsession with men going after their mother or finding a women like her to have sex with... don't bother me with your "knowledge" of quotes, it doesn't make you look smarter.

FYI I have a Bachelors of Science and have taken numerous electronic classes, I own the repair manual for the monsoon system. Case in point, I really do know my shit. So stop trying to win an argument with stuff that's already been done and said with.

I'm done with your trolling, will refer you to Ed if you keep it up, and was only offering my expert advise when entering this thread in the first place. The only one over-complicating anything in this thread is you.

[WhiteBird00]

The "average consumer" you are talking about is going to walk into best buy or circuit city and buy a 50x4 rms head unit and blow the cheap 10-15 watt rms speakers. yes a 25rms head unit is better and we established this before you started posting here.

I did read your whole post and I am not refering to just the convertable. BTW if I was listening to you and just swapped the head unit out, great.. but oh shit now my steering controls don't work. Forgot something did you? But we mentioned that earlier too and you forgot to bring that up like everything else.

no where did i mention 8ohms in a head unit. if ohms was mentioned anywhere it was when buying replacement speakers. freud also had an obsession with men going after their mother or finding a women like her to have sex with... don't bother me with your "knowledge" of quotes, it doesn't make you look smarter.

FYI I have a Bachelors of Science and have taken numerous electronic classes, I own the repair manual for the monsoon system. Case in point, I really do know my shit. So stop trying to win an argument with stuff that's already been done and said with.

I'm done with your trolling, will refer you to Ed if you keep it up, and was only offering my expert advise when entering this thread in the first place. The only one over-complicating anything in this thread is you.
We're obviously not going to see eye-to-eye on this but if you can't stand having anybody disagree with your "expertise" then you need to find something else to do.

The Monsoon speakers are designed for about 30 watts RMS in order to handle the 25 watt output of the Monsoon system (not the 10-15 watts you guessed at). However, even if somebody were to buy a 50 watt system they would never turn it up enough to damage the speakers because the distortion of the factory amp would be sickening and nearly impossible to listen to.

You said that all speakers except the woofers are powered by the head unit. I was not just pointing out the convertible (although it's a valid example) but even the coupe has all except the tweeters powered by the amp. That's six out of the 10 elements - two subs and four midrange speakers. So "all except the woofers" is just not correct.

I mentioned the 8-ohm system as an example of something odd that a consumer would have trouble getting to work if they happened to find one. The point I was making is that your earlier comment about replacing the speakers to match the impedance was incorrect because everything powered off the head unit (tweeters and amplifier input) are 4-ohm which is what the vast majority of aftermarket head units are designed for.

The Freud comment was an attempt to inject a little humor but I guess it went over your head. I won't debate qualifications with you. I have no doubt that you are an intelligent person with proper training who just happened to be wrong in this case - it happens. Without knowing how old you are I would guess that my own experience likely goes back to when you were still in grade school.

Aside from all that, I know of dozens of people on both ls1.com and ls1tech.com that have done head unit replacements without any problems. I have done it in my own car and can tell you that the improvement in sound relative to the cost and amount of work involved is well worth it.

Oh BTW, if you must stoop to threatening sanctions on the board because somebody tells you you're wrong then you need to grow up. Besides, go ahead. I wasn't missing this board before we got a complaint about you on another board and I won't miss it after this either.

[Mudvayne]

Whitebird00 > * > poop > madseason

[MadSeason]

The Monsoon speakers are designed for about 30 watts RMS in order to handle the 25 watt output of the Monsoon system (not the 10-15 watts you guessed at). However, even if somebody were to buy a 50 watt system they would never turn it up enough to damage the speakers because the distortion of the factory amp would be sickening and nearly impossible to listen to.

Didn't guess, it's in the repair manual

You said that all speakers except the woofers are powered by the head unit. I was not just pointing out the convertible (although it's a valid example) but even the coupe has all except the tweeters powered by the amp. That's six out of the 10 elements - two subs and four midrange speakers. So "all except the woofers" is just not correct.

By Definition, The only thing that classifies as woofers in the manual are the two in the doors and two in the sail panels

I mentioned the 8-ohm system as an example of something odd that a consumer would have trouble getting to work if they happened to find one. The point I was making is that your earlier comment about replacing the speakers to match the impedance was incorrect because everything powered off the head unit (tweeters and amplifier input) are 4-ohm which is what the vast majority of aftermarket head units are designed for.

When you buy speakers, most people opt for the 2ways. They can be either 2ohm or 4ohm in most cases. They're either going to end up with mismatched resistance in the tweeter or woofer in the door panel, in which case most people get the 4ohm and run the woofer at 1/2 its avaliable power

Aside from all that, I know of dozens of people on both ls1.com and ls1tech.com that have done head unit replacements without any problems. I have done it in my own car and can tell you that the improvement in sound relative to the cost and amount of work involved is well worth it.

Ditto, never said anything against it or created the 11th commandment

Oh BTW, if you must stoop to threatening sanctions on the board because somebody tells you you're wrong then you need to grow up. Besides, go ahead. I wasn't missing this board before we got a complaint about you on another board and I won't miss it after this either.

You're so :Owned:, since this is the only board I post to :haha:

[rotwiler]

Why don't you guys with cd player problems just get an aftermarket hu

The original question we are reponding to is getting off track. The question was "Why don't you guys with cd player problems just get an aftermarket hu".
Response should have been either, I like the look of stock, so I don't want to upgrade to aftermarket. Or, I can't afford a new HU. Or, Aftermarket HU's work great, but you would need a standard 85+ GM harness($7) a antenna adaptor($6), a dash kit(12.00) and a pac swi-x($45) to retain steering wheel controls.
None of the other things have any bearing on adding a aftermarket hu to the Monsoon. My 50wx4 Kenwood puts out 22 watts rms per kenwood specs and sounds much better than the stock. Plus the advantage of Mp3, adjusting the lower bass out of the Monsoon which in turn causes the speakers to last longer and not distort as much. With the stock Monsoon HU, the bass sounded so bad I turned it down almost all the way. Now, even when I have my subs out of the car when going to the track, I can still turn it up and sounds ok.

[MadSeason]

The original question we are reponding to is getting off track. The question was "Why don't you guys with cd player problems just get an aftermarket hu".
Response should have been either, I like the look of stock, so I don't want to upgrade to aftermarket. Or, I can't afford a new HU. Or, Aftermarket HU's work great, but you would need a standard 85+ GM harness($7) a antenna adaptor($6), a dash kit(12.00) and a pac swi-x($45) to retain steering wheel controls.
None of the other things have any bearing on adding a aftermarket hu to the Monsoon. My 50wx4 Kenwood puts out 22 watts rms per kenwood specs and sounds much better than the stock. Plus the advantage of Mp3, adjusting the lower bass out of the Monsoon which in turn causes the speakers to last longer and not distort as much. With the stock Monsoon HU, the bass sounded so bad I turned it down almost all the way. Now, even when I have my subs out of the car when going to the track, I can still turn it up and sounds ok.

:usa:

[WhiteBird00]

Didn't guess, it's in the repair manual

Not in GM's factory vehicle service manual.

By Definition, The only thing that classifies as woofers in the manual are the two in the doors and two in the sail panels

Again, not in GM's service manual or parts manual. The sail panel speakers are classified as subs while the doors and hatch area each have component sets consisting of tweeters and mid-range speaker elements. There are no woofers as such in the entire car.

When you buy speakers, most people opt for the 2ways. They can be either 2ohm or 4ohm in most cases. They're either going to end up with mismatched resistance in the tweeter or woofer in the door panel, in which case most people get the 4ohm and run the woofer at 1/2 its avaliable power

This had nothing to do with buying speakers. It was about the possiblility of buying a headunit with an odd impedance requirement that wouldn't match the 4-ohm standard that the rest of the Monsoon system uses (amp and tweeters). The point was that you wouldn't need to worry about mismatched impedance unless you bought some oddball head unit that didn't have 4-ohm output.


You're so :Owned:, since this is the only board I post to :haha:

No, somebody was complaining on another board about your posts here. They even provided a link to this thread.


The original question we are reponding to is getting off track. The question was "Why don't you guys with cd player problems just get an aftermarket hu".
Response should have been either, I like the look of stock, so I don't want to upgrade to aftermarket. Or, I can't afford a new HU. Or, Aftermarket HU's work great, but you would need a standard 85+ GM harness($7) a antenna adaptor($6), a dash kit(12.00) and a pac swi-x($45) to retain steering wheel controls.
None of the other things have any bearing on adding a aftermarket hu to the Monsoon. My 50wx4 Kenwood puts out 22 watts rms per kenwood specs and sounds much better than the stock. Plus the advantage of Mp3, adjusting the lower bass out of the Monsoon which in turn causes the speakers to last longer and not distort as much. With the stock Monsoon HU, the bass sounded so bad I turned it down almost all the way. Now, even when I have my subs out of the car when going to the track, I can still turn it up and sounds ok.

You're exactly right. I'm glad somebody sees through the misinformation and realizes that an aftermarket HU can make a significant improvement in the Monsoon system sound without requiring any other system upgrades.

I'm going to move on to something more interesting. Have a happy Thanksgiving everyone!

[98-LS1]

I can't figure out why ya'll say in order to run an aftermarket head unit you'll have to change the speakers, that's a bunch of B.S. ! I took my car to Tweeter and had them install a Kenwood head unit since my factory Monsoon CD player quit working, they said that 50W X 4 Kenwood would power the speakers just fine and they wouldn't have a problem. In my opinion the Kenwood sounds better than the monsoon, everything works great and the stock subs hit really good. I bought all new eclipse speakers for the car though and will be putting them in soon.

[rotwiler]

I can't figure out why ya'll say in order to run an aftermarket head unit you'll have to change the speakers, that's a bunch of B.S. ! I took my car to Tweeter and had them install a Kenwood head unit since my factory Monsoon CD player quit working, they said that 50W X 4 Kenwood would power the speakers just fine and they wouldn't have a problem. In my opinion the Kenwood sounds better than the monsoon, everything works great and the stock subs hit really good. I bought all new eclipse speakers for the car though and will be putting them in soon.

I agree, mine works fine with the stock speakers, and I have a 50x4 Kenwood too. I will go to the 2ohm Infinity's soon for better highs etc.

[lrader99]

after reading this whole post i must say that i agree with madseason almost 100%...the only reason people are arguing is that someone feels that they have a better knowledge of somthing than the next person...people are saying stuff, but the person who replies to the post is not even reading what they typed, because their answers contradict what they had just said...

with the Monsoon system....is it prewired to accept the factory 12 cd changer...even if the car wasnt equipped...ive also heard of a 10" sub that mounted in the pocket in the driver rear quarter well (adjacent to the spare tire)... was there an upgraded power output to the factory monsoon amp....are there upgradeable monsoon speakersI(aftermarket, but within the specs of the monsoon system?)

[227HAWK]

Monsoon on paper = Great
Monsoon in reality = PLEASE REPLACE @ first opportunity.

[rotwiler]

after reading this whole post i must say that i agree with madseason almost 100%...the only reason people are arguing is that someone feels that they have a better knowledge of somthing than the next person...people are saying stuff, but the person who replies to the post is not even reading what they typed, because their answers contradict what they had just said...

with the Monsoon system....is it prewired to accept the factory 12 cd changer...even if the car wasnt equipped...ive also heard of a 10" sub that mounted in the pocket in the driver rear quarter well (adjacent to the spare tire)... was there an upgraded power output to the factory monsoon amp....are there upgradeable monsoon speakersI(aftermarket, but within the specs of the monsoon system?)

I've heard some say that there is the wire for the changer already there, since my car came with the changer I am not sure. But, I do know that even if the car is pre wired for it, the braket the changer attaches to isn't there. I sold my stock 12 disc changer to someone on here and he had to buy the braket from GM to install it like stock, mine looks welded from the factory.

The Monsoon did not have a 10 inch sub option. People install subthumb box, JL audio stealth box etc....and it is made to fit in that area, if you remove the 12 disc changer and add a aftermarket amp.

With the upgradeable speakers, most of this thread was mentioning that. The stock Monsoon speakers tend to blow alot. The Monsoon amp to run optimal needs the 6.5's in the doors and sail panel that run at 2 ohm like the stock. If you go to 4 ohm like most 6.5's, you get 1/2 the power. Very few speakers are out there in 6.5's that run 2 ohm. So in past people have had good results with Alpines at 4ohm since they are efficient. I just bought new to 05 Infinity 62.7i's that run at 2 ohm and should be a perfect upgrade to the front door speakers. Guess I will see in a day or 2 when they arrive, people have claimed great results. As far as I know the Infinity are closest matched to the Monsoon amp in rms and being 2 ohm like the stock ones. Everything else in the Monsoon system runs off the head unit power, weather it is the stock Monsoon hu or aftermarket(2 tweeter in door, and rear 4inch speakers) and they are all 4 ohm. Is a odd setup for a car audio system. The convertible cars are a different setup I think though.

[lrader99]

thanks man

[MadSeason]

the 12 disc harness is only in 93-99 cars that have the 12 disc cd player option, in 2000 they all came standard with or without the cd changer. But they also changed the face and one internal part of the monsoon HU that year. One of the controller boards is different atop the cd drive internally. if you have a 2000+ system and have replaced the monsoon HU with one from an earlier year the 12 disc wont work unless you change the part... If for some odd reason this comes up I have pics of the procedure

[MadSeason]

Also look into EU-700 Speakers for woofer replacement off the monsoon amp, they sell 2 ohm and dual vc 4ohm(runs at 2ohm) that sound much nicer. Personally I'll take the Infinitys up front and the EU-700 in the sail panel for more thump behind me and a broader range in front

[Shpoone]

...ive also heard of a 10" sub that mounted in the pocket in the driver rear quarter well (adjacent to the spare tire)...

I have a custom molded box with a 10" sub in this pocket...but that's the opposite side of the spare tire of course. My amp is mounted in the space above and forward of the spare tire itself.

[Thewilldog]

simple

1. Stock Appearence
2. Use of steering controlls without pricey adaptors
3. If you have monsoon or bose, you'd have to rewire everything in your car and replace speakers, also ditch the amp in most cases
4. 12 Disc cd changer won't work without additional adaptors or harnesses
5. made in the USA



1. Fair enough
2. Sort of, the adapter is around $50
3. No, all you have to do is buy an aftermarket harness for the new stereo and plug it into the stock wiring harness in the car.
4. True, not everyone has a changer though. MP3 compatible stereos have pretty much made changers obsolete.
5. Highly doubtful, electronics were probably made in Japan; installed in Canada or Mexico.

[Transamapleleaf]

I love this stuff...I should be paying money for this. madseason rocks! Whitebird rocks!
BTW....since the Monsoon is 80's technology...try listening to 80's hair metal only in thecar. I put a nice modern cd in and the subs are dying from the 20hz-40hz sub assault burned on to most cd's these days. Gotta hate pro-tools. But my old Van halen cd's recorded at eddie's house (5150) have nothing below 40hz on em...haha...the monsoon works fine. Keep the darn volume down too. Listen for that ambulance....save yer hearing. My car stereo will never sound as good as my home studio near field monitors or my far field monitors. I accept the monsoon for what it is. I have a left rear sub that rattles intermittantly. It's not blown. Some days it works...some days it doesn't. Dislodged voice coil??...Blown or blowing amp channel?

[Fin02-Z28]

I just bought a standard monsoon HU with CD player from e-bay. I replaced a aftermarket Sony HU that was in the car when I bought it.

But after installing the Monsoon HU I realize that the Power button doesn't work, the only way to turn it on is by putting in a CD, but then I can't turn it off, unless I unplug it. The Power button doesnt move when you push it, like it does in my Grandam GM HU. I tried to slide the side switch under the Power button up and down as well, but nothing happens.

Second problem, the lights doesn't work. So i am fumbling in the dark knowing what CD is being played.

Does anyone know if these things have some easy fixes? Or do I have to return it to the seller?

Otherwise this player works fine.

Could also someone explain in simple language the setup of the speakers in the Monsoon system, if they are treble or bass, and from where they get the signal,(HU or Amp), what ohm they should be etc..
I counted that I have 1:st set of speakers in the Doors (Original), 2:nd set of speakers in the back-seat panels(4 ohm Pioneers), 3:rd set in the trunk side panels (Original).

The 2:nd set of speakers does not play properly, just some rumbling low frequency noise. Same problem with the aftermarket HU , as well as the Monsoon HU. I have tried to switch the speakers from the trunk (3:rd pair) and they dont play in the back seat (2:nd speakers position) so it seems like the signal is corrupted.

What could be the problem?

[MadSeason]

I just bought a standard monsoon HU with CD player from e-bay. I replaced a aftermarket Sony HU that was in the car when I bought it.

But after installing the Monsoon HU I realize that the Power button doesn't work, the only way to turn it on is by putting in a CD, but then I can't turn it off, unless I unplug it. The Power button doesnt move when you push it, like it does in my Grandam GM HU. I tried to slide the side switch under the Power button up and down as well, but nothing happens.

Second problem, the lights doesn't work. So i am fumbling in the dark knowing what CD is being played.

Does anyone know if these things have some easy fixes? Or do I have to return it to the seller?

Otherwise this player works fine.

Could also someone explain in simple language the setup of the speakers in the Monsoon system, if they are treble or bass, and from where they get the signal,(HU or Amp), what ohm they should be etc..
I counted that I have 1:st set of speakers in the Doors (Original), 2:nd set of speakers in the back-seat panels(4 ohm Pioneers), 3:rd set in the trunk side panels (Original).

The 2:nd set of speakers does not play properly, just some rumbling low frequency noise. Same problem with the aftermarket HU , as well as the Monsoon HU. I have tried to switch the speakers from the trunk (3:rd pair) and they dont play in the back seat (2:nd speakers position) so it seems like the signal is corrupted.

What could be the problem?

Sounds like you need a new face for your monsoon HU, return it to the seller or get it fixed. Did your car originally come with the monsoon? It's a camaro correct?
Front speakers:
2 ohm woofers

0.6 inch, 4 ohm Dome Tweeters positioned adjacent to the midbass drivers.
Rear speakers:
4 inch extended-range speakers in the rear hatch area.
Sail panel subwoofers:
6 inch, 2 ohm subwoofers are mounted in the sail panels (rear seating area).


If your set on using a replacement stock HU I have spare parts and could fix yours cheap as long as its the model with the EQ's

[Fin02-Z28]

Thanks for your reply, Yes its a Z28 2002 equipped originally with the Monsoon system, HU with inbuilt CD player, Amplifier behind the spare tire and a 12 disk CD player on the other side. I am not sure what you meant with EQ:s?

How much do you want for a new face?

Still about the 2:nd pair of speakers (Sail Panel speakers) that doesnt work. Do you think it is because they are 4 ohms and should be 2 ohms? Or is there something wrong with my Amplifier that it wont send the right signal to the Sail Panel speakers?

I opened the cover for the Front speaker in the door and saw that there are Pioneers mounted there as well. Are the Pioneer speakers original or aftermarket?

[MadSeason]

stock speakers should say delco electronics on them. it may be a problem with the amp or the speakers could be blown in your sail panels, maybe not even hooked up right. I'll post a pic of the face in a min to see if its the same

[MadSeason]

http://edigras.iweb.bsu.edu/Public/Picture%20005.jpg
same as yours?

[WhiteBird00]

That's a Pontiac head unit. Firebirds have dark gray faces with gray buttons and red illumination. Camaros have black faces with black buttons and blue/white illumination. Firebirds have the graphic equalizer while Camaros have normal tone controls. However, Camaros have speed sensitive volume that Firebirds don't.

As far as speakers, Camaros have tweeters and mid-range speakers that are coaxially mounted in the doors. Firebirds have tweeters and mid-range speakers that are mounted separately in the doors. Both models have subs in the sail panels but Camaro's are 2-ohm single voice coil where the Firebird has dual voice coil 4-ohm elements wired to show a 2-ohm load. The rear speakers are mid-range/tweeter combos again.

The front and sail panel speakers are 6.5S (oversized 6.5 inch). The rears are 4 inch. The headunit in a coupe powers the tweeters and the amp powers all the other speakers. In a convertible, the speaker configuration is different and the amp powers all the speakers.

[MadSeason]

Sounds like you need a new face for your monsoon HU, return it to the seller or get it fixed. Did your car originally come with the monsoon? It's a camaro correct?
Front speakers:
2 ohm woofers

0.6 inch, 4 ohm Dome Tweeters positioned adjacent to the midbass drivers.
Rear speakers:
4 inch extended-range speakers in the rear hatch area.
Sail panel subwoofers:
6 inch, 2 ohm subwoofers are mounted in the sail panels (rear seating area).



Whitebird :wtcslap: you never quit repeating what I say do you, I also was just mearly asking him if thats the HU he purchased. I'm well aware its the pontiac model, thats just the replacement face i have laying around:brick:

[WhiteBird00]

Whitebird :wtcslap: you never quit repeating what I say do you, I also was just mearly asking him if thats the HU he purchased. I'm well aware its the pontiac model, thats just the replacement face i have laying around:brick:
Repeating you? I was correcting you, you fool! :haha:

You ask "Camaro, right?" and then offer a Firebird faceplate that isn't interchangeable and ask him if it looks like his. Of course it doesn't look like his - a screen name of Fin02-Z28 should make that obvious. The mid-range speakers are 6.5S (6.5 inch oversize - 6.75 inch will fit) NOT 6 inch as you said. You also mention door speakers with separate tweeters although the Camaro has coaxial door speakers - only the Firebird has separate tweeters.

I wrote this very slowly because I know you can't read very fast... :lmao:

[Thewilldog]

Thanks for your reply, Yes its a Z28 2002 equipped originally with the Monsoon system, HU with inbuilt CD player, Amplifier behind the spare tire and a 12 disk CD player on the other side. I am not sure what you meant with EQ:s?

How much do you want for a new face?

Still about the 2:nd pair of speakers (Sail Panel speakers) that doesnt work. Do you think it is because they are 4 ohms and should be 2 ohms? Or is there something wrong with my Amplifier that it wont send the right signal to the Sail Panel speakers?

I opened the cover for the Front speaker in the door and saw that there are Pioneers mounted there as well. Are the Pioneer speakers original or aftermarket?

Have you popped the cover off the sail speakers and watched what they do when the stereo is on? They only produce low range base, so you may not hear them if you're just listening for them. If the speakers are moving when the stereo is on, they're working, they're just not that loud.

[MadSeason]

look up adjacent in the dictionary, he bought the unit.. it didnt come with his car, was seeing if he got the pontiac version so STFU. Sail panel speakers are 6" and i did not say the size of the front, but those are 6.5S. I'm sure he can measure them either way since he's looked in there to see they're pioneer anyway

[Fin02-Z28]

Thank you guys! Sorry for causing yet another heated, but yet entartaining discussion. You never seem to run out of ideas how to insult eachother:-)

Anyway, The speakers installed Pioneer , in doors (1:st pair) and sailpanel area (2:nd pair), and Delco original in the Hatch area (3:rd Pair).

The HU I bought is a original Z28, Cabriolet. Works fine except for the Power button and a dark display. Madseason, I guess you don't have a spare then?

Like you said Willdog, the sailpanel (backseat area, 2:nd pair) speakers move but they just give a low rumbling sound, sounding like they are blown (even if they are not). You cant here any music, drums or vocals. They actually worsens the whole sound picture so I have disconnected them. Again, could this terrible sound be because they are 4 ohms instead of the 2 ohm I understand should be factory default?

I have tried the speakers from the hatch (3:rd pair) and they are not blown, because they play great in the hatch area, but in the sailpanel they play just as awful.

[MadSeason]

if you clock is the only thing not lighting up you can take the face off and replace the bulb thats behind it. I'd tinker with the powerswitch while you have it off also. get some contact cleaner in there and it might be a simple fix unless it is broken and just jammed in

[Fin02-Z28]

Not sure what you mean with light. The clock is part of the LCD which is solderd to the plate with some 40 points. Looks like the LCD display need to be changed, which is more expensive than a new HU.

[rotwiler]

If someone hooked up the Pioneer 2 ways in the sail panel and didn't remove the tweeter or bypass it, you may be hearing the blown tweeter buzzing since the Monsoon only sends low feq to the 6.5's and would easily blow the tweeters and possibly blow the speaker. Even being 4ohm a mid should sound ok, may be a little less bass or more depending on the brand and efficiency. There is no way you should hear highs at all if it is connected like the factory is, since there ar no highs to the sail panel speakers. I would look over the front ones too, whoever put them in may have just hooked the tweeter wires to the Pioneers up front and may not even be using the Monsoon amp to power them since the tweeter inputs are not crossed over and play full freq. That is the reason many people go with the Alpine 4 ohm, since they are easily modded to work with the factory amp and tweeters are easier than most to still keep the crossover. I just took my front door speakers out today to put in Infinity 62.7i's, and they hook up exactly like stock and are 2 ohm, so is a simple install. I haven't listened to them yet due to I went to get a screwdriver stepped in a hole(now I think I tore a ligament in foot or muscle) and just returned from the ER, so will be a few days or more before I can test it out. Sucks, been wanting to do this for a couple years.

[ScrapMaker]

Do you under stand any part of Ohm's Law? Guess not, you're only 17. There are no line level outputs in the harnesses for aftermarket head units to goto the amp and they are not compatiable with the the speakers in the system since they're 2ohm. The only thing an after market head unit will run properly with a harness is the front tweeters and rear fill speakers in the trunk in a monsoon system. The amp won't work right at all and you will have no woofers in the system unless you redneck it and want them to blow often due to mismatched impedance. In a Bose System the speaker crossovers are within the Headunit and will not funtion properly at all without replacing the whole system.

Pretty cocky there. Maybe he's referring to the Trans Am variant? Every single speaker in my 2000 WS6 has an overall load of 4 ohms.

Door woofer - 4
door tweeter - 4
sail sub - 2+2 = 4
hatch woofer = 4
hatch tweeter = 4

I don't understand the misconception that it's "hard" to work with the monsoon system. You can get great sound by simply buying an aftermarket headunit, and using the $10 wiring harness... or you can do it yourself.

Most high-end shops will actually by-pass the speaker-level input for the monsoon, and use the RCA output from the headunit instead... works great, no headunit amp distortion...

You can replace ANY speaker in the car with aftermarket... they are standard, run-of-the-mill 4-ohm speakers. even if you get a single-coil subwoofer @ 2ohms, you can still wire it properly. You can put in ANY 4 ohm replacement speaker up front, (as long as it fits,)...

What's the big deal? People don't seem to know much about the Monsoon... either that, or their obsession with aftermarket goodness makes them try as hard as possible to get others to convert...

Madseason, you may know *some* of what you're talking about... but damn, you sure come off like an arrogant ass... and about 80% of what you say is wrong, or contradicting...

maybe you could check out this page here? they also have detailed information on the Camaro Monsoon as well.

--w.houston-f-body.org/tech/monsoon/

and if you already knew this information then... wow, you have a strange way of explaining it... (wrongly)

[MadSeason]

First of all www.houston-f-body.org/tech/monsoon/ has the wrong information up there for the Firebird. They don't even list the information for a vert. The schematics drawn up are also incorrect and poorly drawn. Here are some pictures of the speakers in your WS6 Monsoon System

Midwoofer's 4ohm Dual Voice Coil.. That means it runs at a 2ohm load
http://edigras.iweb.bsu.edu/Public/midwoofer.jpg

Front Woofers, Single Coil, Run at 2ohm loadhttp://edigras.iweb.bsu.edu/Public/frontwoofer.jpg

Proof that their website is wrong.

You can replace ANY speaker in the car with aftermarket... they are standard, run-of-the-mill 4-ohm speakers. even if you get a single-coil subwoofer @ 2ohms, you can still wire it properly. You can put in ANY 4 ohm replacement speaker up front, (as long as it fits,)...

no you can not use any speaker you want to replace them as long as they fit, and they will not function properly. You need a speaker with two inputs, one for the tweeter and one for the woofer. You also can run 4ohm but it will be at 1/2 the power and much quieter than running 2ohm. Thus making you turn up that volume on your stock or aftermarket HU causing the speakers to blow in time much sooner than their life expectancy. It's people like you saying this and then we get users comming back wondering why they're not getting any bass or highs from their speakers. Do your homework before you go running your mouth.

[ScrapMaker]

Funny... I've read that in many places... I wondered why the Camaro would be 2-ohm, and the Firebird 4-ohm

that aside, there still really wouldn't be a problem using an aftermarket headunit with the monsoon... buy the harness, splice yourself, or use the RCA-method.

still think you're being a bit arrogant in this thread... why not tone it down? Maybe you have a personal problem with one of the other posters?

so anyway, the main woofer is 2-ohm... so what impedance is the tweeter that is separately-run off of the headunit itself?

[MadSeason]

Everything that runs off the headunit isn't pictured above and is all 4ohm. An aftermarket Head unit will work much better but can be a pain if you want to use your 12 disc and steering wheel controls.

[ScrapMaker]

is it like this?

Headunit
- door tweeter - 4 ohm
- rear tweeter - 4 ohm

Amp
- door woofer - 2 ohm
- rear woofer - 2 ohm
- sub woofer - 2 + 2 ohm

?

some people are telling me the headunit also powers the rear speakers, and that the amp only powers the front door speakers, and the subs...

[rotwiler]

The Camaro for sure runs the 4inch rear coaxil off the Headunit. Madseason would be better to answer the T/A's far rear speakers setup. I just looked back at what he posted and he said the fronts woofers are 2ohm the back seat subs are 4+4=2ohm and the rest run off the headunit at 4ohms.

[dayoungone]

Jeez! all i wanted to know if it was good or not. I like my friends fosgate system ^_^

[MadSeason]

is it like this?

Headunit
- door tweeter - 4 ohm
- rear tweeter - 4 ohm
- rear 4" mid - 4ohm

Amp
- door woofer - 2 ohm
- sail panel woofer - 2 ohm (via 4ohm dual voice coil)

i corrected you

[02z28ls1]

Jeez! all i wanted to know if it was good or not. I like my friends fosgate system ^_^
:lol: don't get these guys started!!I've had plenty of people comment on how good my monsoon sounds for a factory stereo-I love it.It took me four years to blow a door speaker-thats alot of abuse from me cranking it up-lol.

[ScrapMaker]

if you are referring to the fosgate system that appears in the Nisan Titan... or any comparable 'Fosgate' system... then you have low expectations. My boss has the fosgate and he says that my monsoon sounds better.

oh, and earlier you mentioned the EU-700, MadSeason... just so you know, those won't fit without extensive modification, and you may/maynot be able to keep stock speaker covers afterwards. This was a dream of mine from the first moment I heard of these being released, but everyone on the eD boards says it won't work.

Maybe you have tried this?? I would buy them in a heartbeat, along with the 6500s, and some cdt 4"s and yank the stock monsoon completely.

[MadSeason]

The only Eu-700 I have tested is the 4ohm dual voice coil and it works fine in the sail panels, I didn't have to change anything around to make it fit. I do not know how well the 2ohm single voice coils fit up front if they fit at all. One other person also tried this but had to make a baffel in the sail panels for it to work, I didn't need the clearence but they did. -Mad

[IronBird]

The only Eu-700 I have tested is the 4ohm dual voice coil and it works fine in the sail panels, I didn't have to change anything around to make it fit. I do not know how well the 2ohm single voice coils fit up front if they fit at all. One other person also tried this but had to make a baffel in the sail panels for it to work, I didn't need the clearence but they did. -Mad
Soooo...is this Eu-700 4ohm dual vc a good replacement for the factory sub or what? If so, is it a direct fit? :think:

[ScrapMaker]

MadSeason... so you know for sure that the DVC 4ohm EU-700 fits in with no modifications?

because all the people on the eD forums seem to think that they won't fit...

did you try to use them on the stock monsoon amp?

[MadSeason]

MadSeason... so you know for sure that the DVC 4ohm EU-700 fits in with no modifications?

because all the people on the eD forums seem to think that they won't fit...

did you try to use them on the stock monsoon amp? Yes they worked with one modification, I took the old speaker connection and soldered it up to the new speaker so It would fit perfect without cutting any wires. I'll get some pics posted eventually but I have to reinstall them. So when it warms up I'll show you all that they fit my car just fine with no problems. I used them on the stock amp, but because I'm saving to replace the whole system I took them out until then. I was test fitting and seeing how they sounded through the stock system. Much better than what was there, but I don't want to underpower them with the stock amp

[ScrapMaker]

I don't want to underpower them with the stock amp

Bingo! That's why I haven't even considered replacing them yet... because the distortion back there makes me cringe... while from the front seat, they sound 'acceptable'... in the back seat, it just sounds like they are ripping apart from distortion... and I literally have my stock deck's lowest 3 eq bars all the way down... (they seem to have very little effect)

man this is music to my ears... because so many people told me that I would have to rip the crap out of my car to get those EU-700s from eD to fit in there...

you were able to get the factory speaker grilles to fit over when you were done? and did you actually power them and see if the speaker bottomed-out on anything or the surround scraped on anything?? I may have to order a pair of these soon because they are only $50... compared to the $80 for the stock ones... damnit I feel like a moron because I asked a bunch of trans am owners on the eD forums before I bought a stock replacement woofer... what a friggin' waste of money... :(

[MadSeason]

Bingo! That's why I haven't even considered replacing them yet... because the distortion back there makes me cringe... while from the front seat, they sound 'acceptable'... in the back seat, it just sounds like they are ripping apart from distortion... and I literally have my stock deck's lowest 3 eq bars all the way down... (they seem to have very little effect)

man this is music to my ears... because so many people told me that I would have to rip the crap out of my car to get those EU-700s from eD to fit in there...

you were able to get the factory speaker grilles to fit over when you were done? and did you actually power them and see if the speaker bottomed-out on anything or the surround scraped on anything?? I may have to order a pair of these soon because they are only $50... compared to the $80 for the stock ones... damnit I feel like a moron because I asked a bunch of trans am owners on the eD forums before I bought a stock replacement woofer... what a friggin' waste of money... :(

yes the factory grills fit over them and I did power them up and they worked fine. Did you also ask those trans am owners if they actually tried it?

[ScrapMaker]

haha one of them said they did try it and they had to hack away at stuff... which really deterred me from buying the Eu-700...

I plan on buying a pair of 6500s, a nINE.4 to (someday...actively) power them... and a set of 700s for the sails... and I will probably just rig a set of kappa plates for the hatch... off the headunit power...

the only problem I can think of now is that I like to low-pass my REAL subs at 50-60hz... when I would assume that the EU-700s (WHEN in the sail panels in IB setup,) will not partiularly play these low notes so well... so where do I get the signal for the sail subwoofers?? I will be running a HPF on both the front and the rear... unless the cross-over on the 6500s is so good that I don't have to... in that case I could run the non-cross-over signal to the nINE.4, then patch it over to another amp to run the EU-700s...

I bet I will still need to High-Pass the 6500s though... even if the cross-over is good enough.. cuz the doors rattle too much.

I will probably have to cross over the sub output at 150hz or something, then tweak each amp individually for the sub output... but I hate that, I'd rather have full control with the headunit... any ideas?

[ScrapMaker]

it almost sounds like I would need the Ural CDD that eD is getting ready to sell... with 6-independent channels plus subwoofer output... but I don't know if I trust it like I would the new pioneers...