PDA

View Full Version : No traction

Dayak
06-12-2006, 01:12 PM
Hello
I have a 98 trans am 6 speed manuel tranny 411 posi. I had the engine rebuilt and stroked with cam now I cannot get any traction. Even with drag radials on the track I turn them badly. what would be the best thing to do to get hooked up..I have even tried to pull off the line slowly then hit the gas and it will still turn them.
Ratdaddy07
06-12-2006, 02:02 PM
Somebody please, I am dying to know as well.
oneBADDz
06-12-2006, 03:14 PM
Do you have any suspension upgrades? LCAs? Torque arm or panhard rod?
Ratdaddy07
06-13-2006, 08:10 AM
I don't, what would you suggest first and what exactly do they do?
oneBADDz
06-13-2006, 09:36 AM
Taken from Mrr23s sticky in the suspension section:

TRAILING ARMS - Some call them rear LCAs. These also help to keep the rear from rotating upward. Stock are stamped steel flimsy things. Some come with spherical rod ends. While this may be the best way to go as there is no rubber type mounts to flex from, they transfer all noises as they are metal. Also, over time, using the spherical rod ends on the street will wear out relatively quick due to dirt and such getting in them. Some are adjustable. What this does is help you to make sure the rear is pointed straight with the centerline of the car. If the rear is point left/right, the car will dog leg to that direction.

TORQUE ARM - This controls the rear from twisting upwards. Acting like a traction bar, it takes this upward movement and uses it to push down on the tires. This improves traction during acceleration. Stock one is made out of stamped steel and flimsy.

The lower panhard rod is to keep the rear centered as the car corners, lifts, lowers, etc... They come in non-adjustable and adjustable versions. If you lower the car, definately get the adjustable. Even not lowered, you can benefit from the adjustable one. The rear ends aren't centered perfectly from the factory.

There is much more information to be had here:
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9487
and here although I don't agree with the order he has things in, he has info on the suspension parts that is helpful also:
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1844
SeVeReDiStOrTiOn
06-13-2006, 11:11 AM
nice post
Ratdaddy07
06-13-2006, 11:37 AM
Thanks that helps.
MysticZ28
06-13-2006, 01:22 PM
You've got a cammed stroker ... supension is just part of your solution. DRs aren't going to cut it anymore. And if you didn't upgrade to a 12 bolt or a 9 inch neither is your rearend.
Dayak
06-17-2006, 08:08 AM
Newly rebuilt 12 bolt posi 4:11
MysticZ28
06-18-2006, 12:44 AM
Newly rebuilt 12 bolt posi 4:11

Then get some 15 wheels, slap some slicks on that bitch and make an appointment with a chiropracter ...
oneBADDz
06-18-2006, 02:50 AM
Then get some 15 wheels, slap some slicks on that bitch and make an appointment with a chiropracter ...
he still needs suspension. <----------that's a period at the end of that sentence
MysticZ28
06-18-2006, 11:30 PM
he still needs suspension. <----------that's a period at the end of that sentence

That's a capital at the beggining of this sentence ----->If he has any idea how to launch, a properly set up and tuned suspension might gain him tenth. Good tires are going to be worth 2 to 3 tenths, particularly with the power he should be putting down with a cammed stroker ... <-------- Herb Caen school of 3 dot journalism ...
oneBADDz
06-19-2006, 12:17 AM
People with less power than him are breaking torque arms, people with as much power as him are screwing up LCAs. He has a 12 bolt with 4.11s and gobs of power, and you think he needs to just slap slicks on it and run the hell out of it? He NEEDS suspension. Slicks are asking for trouble. Suspension first.

Dayak, do you even have subframe connectors yet?
oneBADDz
06-19-2006, 12:18 AM
I'm not just trying to be a jerk and argue. You need to prepare a car for the stress that slicks and that much power are going to put on it
1fastcamarosss11
06-19-2006, 12:32 AM
i want slicks...
MysticZ28
06-19-2006, 12:23 PM
People with less power than him are breaking torque arms, people with as much power as him are screwing up LCAs. He has a 12 bolt with 4.11s and gobs of power, and you think he needs to just slap slicks on it and run the hell out of it? He NEEDS suspension. Slicks are asking for trouble. Suspension first.

Dayak, do you even have subframe connectors yet?

Now you're talking apples and oranges .... Suspension mods for traction or suspension mods to keep from breaking?

If he's taken the time to put in a 12 bolt, I would suspect that he has done the rudimentry suspension mods. As far as breaking, now that he has a 12 bolt, he's more likely to lose the clutch, if he hasn't upgraded, than a stock torque arm.

Tires are going to be his biggest bang ... but if he is going to get serious and consistant, he has shit load of work and learning to do. He has to do sway bars - lose the front/beef up the back, shocks and probably airbags, then he has to learn how to tune them all in and how to tweek it for track conditions.
Ratdaddy07
06-19-2006, 01:09 PM
The guy who is doing my motor work right now has none of those things. Running high tens on motor and high nines on bottle with Mosler rear-end and slicks thats all. Green LT1 TA, will be in the next issue of GM high tech performance magazine in the budget car article.
tnthub
06-19-2006, 03:33 PM
15 inch rims and some slicks will take care of the problem. if you break something... Upgrade it.

I do have drag springs on the four corners, an airbag on the right rear, and 90-10s up front and long ago removed the front sway bar. However I still have the stock torque arm but am planning on replacing it in the near future.

Bear in mind my car has about 4500 passes on it and I said stock torque arm...

The first thing to change are rims and tires. I would probably recommend ET streets on some 15 in rims. Unless the tires hook you can't figure out what else you need and you can waste a lot of money on suspension components trying to hook up with tires that are not adequate.

No matter what you do you will want tires and rims so get something appropriate. Also, make sure you have a driveshaft loop and that your u-joints are new. I have seen many people screw things up becasue of a cracked u-joint or some other ten dollar part...
ss~zoso~ss
06-19-2006, 04:54 PM
4500 passes really?
Bob'sWS6
06-19-2006, 10:01 PM
Well, since no one has mentioned it, coil over shocks help out alot from what i've read. QA1 is suppose to make a relatively cost effective kit.

The other mods are already mentioned. I think some air bags would help too.
ProwlerZ
06-20-2006, 03:27 PM
4500 passes really?

I'm guessing he meant 4-500 passes. Otherwise he lives in his car and keeps it parked at the strip. Man, even 400 passes is a hellofalot. I haven't seen that many!
MysticZ28
06-20-2006, 10:15 PM
I'm guessing he meant 4-500 passes. Otherwise he lives in his car and keeps it parked at the strip. Man, even 400 passes is a hellofalot. I haven't seen that many!

It's 4,500 ... I put over 600 on mine in 2 years and he's been racing his for years and is one of the top bracket racers in the NE. Check out his website.
Roastem
06-23-2006, 08:15 AM
4500 passes really?

Damn, that is like 1125 miles of 1/4 drag strip action, and 18 hrs and 20 minutes of drag time.

Talk about durability.
Roastem
06-23-2006, 08:18 AM
I'm guessing he meant 4-500 passes. Otherwise he lives in his car and keeps it parked at the strip. Man, even 400 passes is a hellofalot. I haven't seen that many!

Yo, prowlerZ. I plan to go to Myrtle Beach a couple times this summer, maybe we can line 'em up, I should have the heads on it early next month. I want a piece of that look alike.