EU 700's, how much better than stock?

[brianthomas7]

One of the subs in my sail pannel is blown and I have been searching for a replacement. From searching this site, it sounds like the EU 700 works in our cars with the factory monsoon system. I just wanted to hear anyone's opinion on how these sound compared to the stock subs. I am not excpecting them to be a huge improvement, just want to see if there is any.

[daveb91]

The other thread on this kind of answers that.

[brianthomas7]

It really doesn't. All it says is that it is middy. That doesn't really offer me a straight comparison to the stock subs.

[daveb91]

Right now they just sound kinda "middy" unless the volume is really low-then they sound really boomy

he also said they sound under powered. If they make any sound then they are better than the stock ones.

[third_shift|studios]

that was my thread.

i think the eu700's are iffy. i seriuosly have had to go through too much BS in order to get them to work, so my advice to you is stay with stock, or put in 2x10's or a stealth box.

[ScrapMaker]

the eu-700s should work fine... but most people that use them are probably scrapping the entire stock monsoon system anyhow... at least that's what I'm doing....

the Eu-700s are only $50, while the stock speakers are $85....

[third_shift|studios]

well it's come to this:

eu700's + 4 channel amp with front/rear crossovers so that the door mids don't try to keep up with the sail panels.

Elemental Designs makes a 4 channel specifically for this purpose; this is a direct quote from the E.D. Tech i've been chatting with.
To wire the 700s, you'll just wire the coils on each in parallel, and then connect each speaker to one of the rear channels, for a two ohm stereo final load. The NINe.4 has gain and crossover(low pass or high pass from 40-240hz, as well as full range) on each pair of channels(front and rear). It also has the ability to play in 'two channel mode', if you ever wanted to use the amp as a large two channel in the future, as well as being able to output 4 independent channels from 2 channels of input.
NINe.4, RMS Power @ 12.5v : 4 x 65 @4Ohm, 4 x 100 @2Ohm, 2 x 150@4Ohm

http://edesignaudio.com/Products/NINe4Amplifier/Gallery/DSCF0125.jpg

it's not a monsterous amp, but it looks pretty inteligent; only $235.00

[ScrapMaker]

that's exactly what I plan on doing... except you start running into problems with your headunit RCA outputs... because you want to cross everything over from there... you will hpf your doors, and the rear output obviously...

so the question is, do you sacrifice adjustability from the headunit and run the sail subs along with the hatch speakers... or do you run them with your REAL subs, at which point you have little control over the volume of the subs from the headunit, because the big subs can handle so much more...

if you aren't going to have big subs, then it's super easy to do this... but for most, it starts getting annoying... which is why there are now headunits with 4 sets of outputs... eD is even reselling one called the ural cdd....

[third_shift|studios]

oral what? :lol: sorry...:jk:

i dumped my big 10's on my buddy a while ago. i was sick of the increased weight and toting them around all the time. i downsized to the eu700's but now i realized i need to "adjust" my whole system for them

[ScrapMaker]

"big 10s"?

okay...

[third_shift|studios]

i had 2x10's in my car before i downsized

[ScrapMaker]

hehe, I was getting at the fact that 10"s are small.... and you referred to them as "big 10s"

hey, maybe they were big for 10's and that would make sense...

every car I've ever owned, I've always had two 15s... so maybe I just can't see it from your point of view...

if I got the eu-700s, they'd just supplement the 15s in the rear... kinda flatten out response...

[third_shift|studios]

15's in an Fbody....do you hate your rear hatch?

[ScrapMaker]

not at all... and as long as you do some sound-dampening, you won't have rattles either.

in my 1990 Firebird, I put a peice of foam behind the license plate, and that was perfect... but the older f-bodys are more prone to rattles...

I just couldn't ever understand why people would go half-way and not finish up... if you want to big subs, why stop at 12s? unless they are brahmas or something, then normally the 15s would kick their asses...

if I can't build a decent dual-15 box, I MIGHT go with 12s, and use the brahmas.. but that's a big IF.

[third_shift|studios]

my 10's did me just fine. really, i miss them. but the weight reduction was a big +

[ScrapMaker]

yeah, I used to think 10's were pretty sweet... then I tried some 12s, and I was like, "holy shit!!"... then I figured, hey, why not 15s? and man, it was a world of difference... they effortlessly spit out the lows...

but for someone like you, maybe you could use the EU-700s, and somehow turn the sailpanel into some sort of ported enclosure? like the 3rdgens have... that may be a good solution for ya...