I think I am getting ripped offf help!!!

[sweetask1ng]

A guy is installing my stuff right now, supposedly he's a friend... Anyways he wants to hook my four stereo's (alpine type s speakers) into my headunit and then plug my amp into my headunit instead of plugging all of the speakers into the amp. If the amp is plugged into the head unit and then the speakers go through the head unit, will the speakers get the power from the subwoofer?? Please if any of you guys could help me I'd appreciate it!!!

Thanks,
Justin

[sills1]

What kind of amp is it, how many subs are you having installed, and does the amp have a crossover built-in to keep bass from being sent to the other speakers if in fact you do run power from the amp to the other speakers.

I had a JL amp and JL custom enclosure installed in my car and all the other speakers are running off of the deck.

You don't want to blow your other speakers with too much bass from a sub woofer amp. Some head units have seperate RCAs for sub woofer amps which basically only sends lows to the amp. Your friend is probably doing the install right just by what you said.

[White Rascal]

A guy is installing my stuff right now, supposedly he's a friend... Anyways he wants to hook my four stereo's (alpine type s speakers) into my headunit and then plug my amp into my headunit instead of plugging all of the speakers into the amp. If the amp is plugged into the head unit and then the speakers go through the head unit, will the speakers get the power from the subwoofer?? Please if any of you guys could help me I'd appreciate it!!!

Thanks,
Justin
If what you are saying is true it sounds to me like this "friend" of yours has no idea what he is doing.

[sweetask1ng]

Well the amplifier is a 4 channel Power Acoustik SP4X-600 ( info found here http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/POWSP4X600 ) and it is hooking up to four 6.5 Inch Alpine Type S Speakers ( http://www.bizrate.com/marketplace/product_info/details__cat_id--11930000,prod_id--11453354.html ) and I have a Alpine 9847 Head Unit ( http://www.hookedontronics.com/sales/A517288e9f7d_P128_alpine_cda-9847_car_head_units_cd_wma_mp3_player.htm ) . He is telling me that he wants to just keep the stereo's plugged in the way they are and just connect the amp to the head unit. The whole purpose of the amp is to power the speakers, I have a seperate amp for the subs.. He said he just didnt want to have to "fish" the wire from the speakers to the amp.. I'm not buying that it will work but correct me if I'm wrong.

[White Rascal]

I wouldn't let that guy touch my car with a 10' pole.

[sills1]

Yea, from your last post, I wouldn't let him touch my car either. You have to run speaker wire from the amp to the speakers. The only thing running out of the head unit needs to be the signal going to the amp which is more than likely RCAs. ABORT THE MISSION......ABORT

[sweetask1ng]

haha I think I may not have replicated what he said right. He works full time as an installer for Fry's Electronics, so I think he knows his stuff. It just sounded to me like he was trying to skate around something instead of doing it the right way =\...
If you guys know of anyone in the Indianapolis area that installs for cheap let me know!!

[RossRinSD]

you aren't getting ripped. The way he is doing everything makes it easier to do. He is going to use the factory speaker wires that are already run all over the car, and cut them right behind the head unit. That way all the speaker wires and the connections are in one place. He runs 1 bunch of speakerwires from the amp to 1 place in the car (behind the head unit) That type of wiring will work just fine. I've seen it done plenty of times.

But, for a high dollar install.... High quality wire should be run from the amp and directly to the speakers. But that means ripping the whole interior out. Sill plates, underdash trim, kick panels, door panes, back seat, quarter panels maybe seatbelts if the wiring won't lay down right.... He is saving himself AND YOU hours of work.

Hey, itz a hookup right? and you said u wanted cheap?!

[Orcus79]

From reading other peoples post and my own knowledge of high out put PA systems your friend is helping you save money by using the factory harness. You do not need to run the twisted pair oxyegen freee cables and what ever else they try to sell you on unless you are running some sierious draw, even then you won't need that large of cable. The monster cable is not needed, its just a money grab and show thing. You shouldn't need anything more than than a quality 12awg speaker cable at most again if you are running serious power for subs. If you want high quality cable go to a well established PA company and see if that have any damaged speaker cable that they would be willing to part with.

[White Rascal]

From reading other peoples post and my own knowledge of high out put PA systems your friend is helping you save money by using the factory harness. You do not need to run the twisted pair oxyegen freee cables and what ever else they try to sell you on unless you are running some sierious draw, even then you won't need that large of cable. The monster cable is not needed, its just a money grab and show thing. You shouldn't need anything more than than a quality 12awg speaker cable at most again if you are running serious power for subs. If you want high quality cable go to a well established PA company and see if that have any damaged speaker cable that they would be willing to part with.
I have to disagree with part of this statement. You DO need RCA cables that use "twisted pair" construction in a car audio installation. TP RCA cables have superior noise rejection characteristics over RCA cables that are just shielded alone. The inside of a car is very noisy electronically speaking. TP cables will reject radiated noise far better than an ordinary RCA cable.

12AWG speaker wire is plenty large enough no matter how much power we're talking about.

[sweetask1ng]

well at the moment I don't think my system is all that high powered except for my subs which are powered by a Rockford Fosgate 800 a2. In any case I dont have any clue as to what the last two posts said, but if you guys think what he is doing is alright then thats good enough for me! Thanks again for your help fellas, I really appreciate it!

Justin

[graphicsgod]

I have to disagree with part of this statement. You DO need RCA cables that use "twisted pair" construction in a car audio installation. TP RCA cables have superior noise rejection characteristics over RCA cables that are just shielded alone. The inside of a car is very noisy electronically speaking. TP cables will reject radiated noise far better than an ordinary RCA cable.

12AWG speaker wire is plenty large enough no matter how much power we're talking about.

Listen to him!! He knows his shit.

I'd tell the guy the same thing. If your gunna do it, do it right.

As soon as I get my GM card paid off from my last vacation, I plan on going to this one shop up the street that gets a lot of rich people in there to do a full custom install. I took my last car there (about ten years ago) and they do good work. It wasn't cheap, but man my hoopty (Pulsar Rx 1988, the stereo was worth more than the car three times over lol) sounded sweet ;)!

Rob