torque convertor

[bandit95]

well the ta is in the shop right now and it's gettin a new rear main seal among other things. so i figured while the transmission is out the i'll get a new tc. lookin at one of the milder ones from b&m. i've heard they aren't as good as the others but i figure anything is better than stock. all icould stall to last time at the track was about 1500 or so then it pulled through the lights. so wish me luck.

[tnthub]

Add a good tranny cooler and a lockup switch while you are at it so you don't burn it up or kill your highway mileage. Everybody has brand preferences and many of us have had good/bad experience and b&M is generally regarded as a lower end unit but in reality with a good install, a good cooler, and utilizing a lockup it whould work just fine unless you severely beat on it. Stay with non-synthetic tranny fluid so the bands continue to grip and not slip as much.

[Ed Blown Vert]

Just get a stall at least 3200

[nhraformula]

get a stall between 3000-3500.
an str around 2.0-2.2 will drive tightly and like a stock trans

[bandit95]

are the b&m's not lockup? and where do i find a lockup switch at?

[The Scientist]

Yeah, what are you talking about exactly with a lockup switch. Sounds like a good idea but didn't know you could contol when how a tc locks up.

[hammertime]

Yeah, what are you talking about exactly with a lockup switch. Sounds like a good idea but didn't know you could contol when how a tc locks up.

You should definitely get a lockup type converter. Generally speaking, the computer should still signal the converter to lockup as it usually does. I think the reason for a manual lockup switch is to keep the converter from flashing when the PCM unlocks it, like going up a slight hill, accelerating a little to change speed on the highway, other situations where it would be undesireable to go from 2200-2400 rpms up to 3000-3200 with just a light throttle input.

Funny I read this, as I was thinking about some kind of lockup switch for my daily driver for mileage reasons today.

[The Scientist]

You should definitely get a lockup type converter. Generally speaking, the computer should still signal the converter to lockup as it usually does. I think the reason for a manual lockup switch is to keep the converter from flashing when the PCM unlocks it, like going up a slight hill, accelerating a little to change speed on the highway, other situations where it would be undesireable to go from 2200-2400 rpms up to 3000-3200 with just a light throttle input.
I have a Vigilante 3000 being put in right now and I already knew why you would want one. I didn't know it could be done. The question is would it be a simple plug-n-play kit or would you need someone who knows what they are doing wire it up.

[hammertime]

I have a Vigilante 3000 being put in right now and I already knew why you would want one. I didn't know it could be done. The question is would it be a simple plug-n-play kit or would you need someone who knows what they are doing wire it up.

I doubt anyone has made a kit for it, but I don't think it would be too hard to identify which is the hot wire and what voltage is required, then run another hot wire and a switch for it.

I don't know how much current we're talking about either, so there maybe a relay in the circuit - might make it easier.

[Ed Blown Vert]

I am not understanding why you would need a manual lock-up switch.

[hammertime]

Maybe the original poster tnthub can help. I'm just speculating...

Besides, my car has three pedals, so as long as my foot isn't on the one on the left, its locked up :D