1000 bucks

[mrdirtyz28]

my question is which mod should i do 1st i have a 98 z28 a4 with fra mods. the car has 3.23's i was wondering should i get 3.73's or a stall 1st. the guy at the shop said i need to get the gears.what do you guys think i have 1000 bucks and its burning my pockets dont want to mess up please help before i do the wrong thing:help:

[Corvettekid82]

My $ would go to a stall and I have the 2.XX gears. Stall with a tranny cooler and shift kit is the way to go.

[8ualive]

i got a stall first and eventually got my gears, i had 3.23 but i put 3.42's in mine, but the stall definately i think from experience! good luck

[Italiano]

ok, not to jump in and stray from the subject but could you guys help me understand how a stall converter works? I have an A4 also and everyone says to get one... what will it do for me? Thanks guys

[Capster78]

You might want to get the gears first. I know when I bought my 3500 stall they recommended 3.73 gears. I had some shifting issues with my stock gears and had to tune them out (adjust shift points) to keep it from stalling out on me.

The way I understand it, A stall converter interfaces the driveshaft with the rear end. It allows the drivetrain to run while the car is in park or while at a light without stalling out (kinda like a clutch in a M6, would have to be depressed or in nuetral to allow the drivetrain to spin while at a stop or in park). The stock converter is set at about 1200 RPM's meaning the drivetrain isent fully engaged to the rear untill you hit that rpm. Aftermarket converters raise that RPM level (ex 3500 stall). Which is almost like tacking up an M6 to 3500 rpm's and feathering the clutch. The high stall converter will keep you in the meat of the power band in every gear. It also is a torque multiplier which gets you off the line better.

Before you go and get a torque converter I would also suggest a good suspension setup or your just going to spin all day. Sub Fram connectors are a must even on stock cars. Lower control arms and relocation brackets help keep wheel hop down along with a heavier duty rear sway bar. I recommend Spohns race sway bar with end links. I also recommend an adjustable torque arm.

[CamaroKillZ28]

You might want to get the gears first. I know when I bought my 3500 stall they recommended 3.73 gears. I had some shifting issues with my stock gears and had to tune them out (adjust shift points) to keep it from stalling out on me.

The way I understand it, A stall converter interfaces the driveshaft with the rear end. It allows the drivetrain to run while the car is in park or while at a light without stalling out (kinda like a clutch in a M6, would have to be depressed or in nuetral to allow the drivetrain to spin while at a stop or in park). The stock converter is set at about 1200 RPM's meaning the drivetrain isent fully engaged to the rear untill you hit that rpm. Aftermarket converters raise that RPM level (ex 3500 stall). Which is almost like tacking up an M6 to 3500 rpm's and feathering the clutch. The high stall converter will keep you in the meat of the power band in every gear. It also is a torque multiplier which gets you off the line better.

Before you go and get a torque converter I would also suggest a good suspension setup or your just going to spin all day. Sub Fram connectors are a must even on stock cars. Lower control arms and relocation brackets help keep wheel hop down along with a heavier duty rear sway bar. I recommend Spohns race sway bar with end links. I also recommend an adjustable torque arm.


I second everything he says! Make sure you get a trans cooler, but if I were you I would go with suspension, and maybe a nice exhaust. If you are looking for #s at the track imo thats the way to go. Then you are set up for the stall converter, other than that if you have the stall and no suspenion its gonna be bouncy bouncy off the line and will kill ur 60' times, thus killing ur ET.