I'm a Oil Junkie

[GatorSS]

Please explain where you get your information. Many people have tested their Havoline, and have found that it's not "pure crap". In fact, it was non-pure crap enough to go 12000 miles in a 5.3 truck that was beat on, and have enough non-pure crapness to have what the tester called a good 1000 miles left. 13000 on a cheap dino oil isn't what most would call pure crap. Search bobistheoilguy.com for the used oil analysis on the truck.

I wouldn't take everything 'bobistheoilguy.com' says as absolute truth. Bob may have some good info, but, in short, Bob ain't the oil guy he thinks he is.

[Sarge]

Havoline dino is probably the most robust oil you can buy in the dino flavors. Nice shot of moly in it. I'd pour Havoline in before I would Mobil 5000 that's for damn sure.

[ocshaman]

I wouldn't take everything 'bobistheoilguy.com' says as absolute truth. Bob may have some good info, but, in short, Bob ain't the oil guy he thinks he is.

It has nothing to do with who Bob is or what he is about; it is the numbers (read empirical information) that come out of the sumps of similar vehicles. In other words, it really has nothing to do with Bob, and I don’t see how Bob came into play with this, but the fact that the information that is better than probably anything any person can tell you on this board, is posted on his website.

I feel safe to say this because 1 UOA can tell you infinitely more than my brother’s uncle’s cousin’s mechanic’s mistress’s uncle ran Pennzoil for 10000000000000 miles in his VW, so it will work for you.

[Sarge]

BITOG has really gone downhill. One must have all their internet filters turned up high when reading threads there anymore. Lots of trolls pimping their particular oils....bashing and childish bullshit big time over there now. Too bad.
I read lots of UOA's and use the VOA section quite alot...other than that...it is just Mobil1 is great or Mobil1 sucks threads out the ass....I stick with mainly my own damn UOA's and those of folks with bowtie motors that I know here locally that utilize UOA's....dyno runs...engine tear downs etc. that I witness or participate in hands on....these things I share when I respond to many oil related questions...versus some string on BITOG.

[lonewolf37]

In order to separate fact from opinion I suggest you send oil samples to Blackstone Labs. They perform a complete oil analysis and tell you if you engine has any problems. I am changing my oil at 5,000 miles and Mobil ! is showing the least wear.

[ErikElvis]

I have from what I hear a crappy fram filter on my car now. Can I swap it out w/o makining and oil change or will it just be a mess? I normally use purolator but it bought what was handy at walmart. I drive the car maybe once a week.

[Sarge]

I have from what I hear a crappy fram filter on my car now. Can I swap it out w/o makining and oil change or will it just be a mess? I normally use purolator but it bought what was handy at walmart. I drive the car maybe once a week.
No problems. Just have a quart to top off after the change.

[LT4Vette]

I have read nearly all pages and got a lot of good info here. Sarge, I have a 2000 SS with nearly 90k miles on it. The car is completely stock and is never raced. I have been running 5-30 Mobil 1 since I bought it early in the year.

My complant is that I have the piston slap noise and what sounds like rocker noise until I drive it for about 30 minutes. Also, I have more oil pan leaks since I bought it and don't know what oil was in the car when I bought it. I live in central Florida so I rarely see 40 degrees at winter.

Should I go with a 10-40 oil to solve all these problems or a 0-40? My concern is a going with a 0-40 will possibly make the oil leaks worse. I don't want to replace the oil pan gasket at this time. I would prefer to stick with a dyno oil for cost reasons. Recommendations?

[Sarge]

Sure....I would AutoRX her.....it is not a solvent....but gently cleans and restores seals and gaskets while it removes varnishes and sludge..... http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html .....so often we all think a quality oil is cleaning ( and they do) however this stuff is amazing and does a top notch job at restoring leaking gaskets and seals without all the solvents........and is the only product that cleans your ring packs and restores compression....you'll think you have a new engine...no marketing bullshit here.....
after a clean/rinse with AutoRX of your ride I would consider Castrol GTX 10-40 or Havoline 10-40 with a maintenance dose (3oz's) of the AutoRX...lets run this mixture for 3-4 oil change intervals.....then if you wish you can go back to a good synthetic....Now I'm gonna be called a Mobil1 basher...however I base the following statement on multiple UOA's here guys....Mobil1 5-30 shears and is too fricking thin for our motors.....I would consider (after the above regimen) a Pennzoil Platinum 10-30 or a Royal Purple 10-40......both easily available (RP is at NAPA's now and PP is everywhere and a great value).....for your engine in Florida.....I think you will see a few things after all is said and done...and I am very confident here....you will have a smoother running engine getting better mileage and making more RWHP than you remember....2ndly.....the piston slap is what you are describing....you'll never get rid of it....the piston skirts are too damn short and slap the side of the cylinder walls until the walls are coated with oil then it dies down....PP or RP will greatly reduce this "slap" because of superior cling characteristics over Mobil1....give it a shot....any questions or comments please fire away....

[LT4Vette]

Thanks for the quick reply. Do you have any experience in LTx engines? I am looking for a recommendation on my new engine for the Vette. It is a 96 383 LT4 engine, solid roller, forged internals, etc. Street/strip

I am looking for break in oil and procedure as well as after. I suppose I need to get you the bearing clearances to advise me, right?

[01blackbird]

Just a little info if your willing to do the work. GM has a revised piston with a Teflon type of coating on the sides of the pistons to stop the piston slap. The part # is 88984245. No matter what oil you use, it won't stop the slap and eventually the cylinder walls wear in a concaved pattern.

[Roadrunner]

I've not read anything on Valvoline Synth. I tried it this last oil change and it has quieted my engine noise down. Plus ther has not been the need to add oil so far after 2500 miles. Any comments on this brand?

[Sarge]

Thanks for the quick reply. Do you have any experience in LTx engines? I am looking for a recommendation on my new engine for the Vette. It is a 96 383 LT4 engine, solid roller, forged internals, etc. Street/strip

I am looking for break in oil and procedure as well as after. I suppose I need to get you the bearing clearances to advise me, right?
Just overhauled the LT1 in my 25th Anniversary T/A.....
Good 10-40 Castrol or Havoline with a quart of RedLine mixed in for the Moly you'll be needing and the new SM rated oils dont have....once your happy you nailed your valve clearnace :) drive it like you stole it.....from day one....
Just dont maintain a steady highway speed for a few hundred miles....vary your speeds as much as you can....I like to (brand new motor)...pour in the above mix....and go out....get up to like 40-50mph and let the engine slow you back down to like 20 mph ( downshifting if your a manual)...yes everyone will think your drunk off your ass....but the back pressure from the engine braking is setting those rings and that is a very good thing...dont baby it....run the above mix for the first 10 hours or so of engine op....then change the oil with the exact same mix or just straight RedLine or equivelant.....by the way...Havoline has a good dose of Moly straight out of the bottle....

[Sarge]

I've not read anything on Valvoline Synth. I tried it this last oil change and it has quieted my engine noise down. Plus ther has not been the need to add oil so far after 2500 miles. Any comments on this brand?
I have it in my Dodge R/T right now. When I see Valvoline Synthetic on sale or in the bargain bin at WallyWorld I grab it. Good add packs.....but if it is over $3 bucks per quart I pass.....it is good oil....fucked up old man aint I? LOL....I always go straight to the oil section at WallyWorld when I go in there to see what is in the discount baskets :) NAPA is good about Pennzoil Platinum sales.... recently I got 36 quarts of 10-30 PP for $2 a quart :)

[Firebug]

When it comes to oil, Bug has no idea. I should read this thread and learn a little...

[Sarge]

Just a little info if your willing to do the work. GM has a revised piston with a Teflon type of coating on the sides of the pistons to stop the piston slap. The part # is 88984245. No matter what oil you use, it won't stop the slap and eventually the cylinder walls wear in a concaved pattern.
Yup...I read that.....Just drop a 408 Stroker Iron Block in there instead...voila...no more slap :) GM should be giving those things away for free....dumbasses who designed it should be horse whipped...some oils with thicker film and cling do mute it substantially.....but you are correct....your never gonna eliminate it altogether....

[Sarge]

You want a real 100% synthetic....killer oil....less than $5 bucks? Here it is.....deal of the century.....
http://www.vpracingfuels.com/RS530.html

[LT4Vette]

I spoke with my engine builder and has had a lot of failures with solid roller lifters and synthenic oil. This was 20 years ago when he experienced this and has not used it since. I had my lifters fail and take the engine with it too and I was using synthenic. Doing research on the best brand of lifter I found it interesting that Crower does not recommend it either. The quote below was taken from http://www.crower.com/misc/faq.shtml

Use of Synthetic Oils
Crower does not recommend the use of synthetic motor oils in any racing applications, particularly hydraulic and flat tappet camshafts. The minimum gains in horsepower are offset by the excessive wear to cam and lifter surfaces. Crower recommends Kendall GT-1 (20W50) Petroleum based motor oil in all high performance applications. If your manual suggests running synthetic oil, then do so. We have found, however, that the benefits do not outweigh the costs. For additional information click

Anyway, I don't know if it is true but I thought I would pass that along to you guys.

[Sarge]

Many synthetics dont have the ZDDP you need with solids.....and it burns em up....Todays SM rated oils dont have it either.....

[tonyjnjz]

hey sarge..ive asked u a question about my car and oil once before but after reading this post im wondering again...as my sig states my car has a lpe 383 stroker in it....and they recommend a 15-50 weight oil.....as it sits now it has mobil 1 15-50 in it...u recommended me a 20-50 amsoil ...i keep reading about what your saying about your car ..and its a bigger monster than mine and your running a 0-30 weight oil???? i understand it gets to moving parts faster on cold start up...but is an oil this light good for an engine with all forged heavy parts??? my car sounded funnny when i was running 5-30 m1 when i first got it..glad i wrote an email to lpe to find out they want 15-50 in it.......do i want a heavier oil or a 0-30 to keep wear down on start up???????? confused after reading what u use......thanks sarge

[Sarge]

I used 0-30 before the stroker motor...when we had the LS1 in it...it performed well...but had a tick higher wear metals in the UOA's....nothing big though....with the stroker I use Royal Purple 10-40...cuz it is great oil and I get it free from NAPA (thank you sponsors)....you said you had a LPE Stroker motor and I am familiar with their bearing clearances/tolerances and recommend a 20-50 weight oil.....dont confuse a Head/Cammed LS1 with a LPE 383 Stroker motor...I know it is all confusing and folks keep waiting for the "best oil" and "best weight" of oil and it aint ever gonna come....you have to tune your oil just like you do your A/F....

[tonyjnjz]

ahhhhhh yes..thank u for clearing that up for me.....is that a bad thing there bearing clearances are wider and therefore need a thicker motor oil? Sooo much to learn.....its a good thing i get to play on this site all day at work and absorb as much as possible :D

[Sarge]

No...various motors utilize various bearings and components for varying purposes....having crank bearings at .0001 or .0003 doesnt make one better or worse than the other...

[02z28ls1]

http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/BaseOils/docs/ebot.pdf Here's an interesting document that helps explain some of what is going on with motor oils recently -if anyone's interested. If it gives you a headache just skip down to the last paragraph where it gets summed up. Realizing that there is some controversy on PAO's and Group 3 oils , but this helps explain some of what's going on. It's interesting what they have to say about the evolution of motor oils.

[Sarge]

Good read and good post man. Yup...Dino oils are on par (so close you would never tell the difference in a motor) to synthetics due the new generations of Group II and Group III basestocks. Add the fact these now superior basestocks are much cheaper than PAO basestocks and voila! You now see Group III basestocks in Mobil1 and others. What does all this mean? It means the high cost of synthetics is getting really really really tough to justify over Dino oil. If not impossible.

[Banshee1967]

If anyone is interested, There is a guy on Ebay selling Mobil 1 M-107 filters by the case of 6 at $39. The M-107's sell here for $10.99 so if the shipping is decent, may be worth a look.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160058986000&fromMakeTrack=true

[2000M6SS]

So what would be the best bet for a stock internal LS1 with 76k DD but wrung out occasionally (few/several times a week but for just a gear or two usually)? Best bet for the dollar?

Also, currently best make of oil filter? Again, for the dollar.



I just bought the car (00' SS M6) recently and am very new to paying attention to oil like this.

Did go ahead and pay the big bucks for Royal Purp. XPR 10w40, RP Synchromax, and RP 85w140 gear oil. It is all waiting to go in finally this weekend. Oh, also splurged for an Amsoil Ea064 oil filter, and their air filter. I've never ever spent this much for fluids before, but I really like the new car and figured I'd see what all the hype was about finally. Again, all hopefully going in this coming weekend. But, I am looking for cheaper alternatives (a compromise) as I don't know that I'll be able to afford the RP engine oil each time or that expensive of an oil filter. Maybe, but would sure like to not feel the need.


Like the sounds of the Amsoil oils, but again.......dollars like the RP.

[Sarge]

So what would be the best bet for a stock internal LS1 with 76k DD but wrung out occasionally (few/several times a week but for just a gear or two usually)? Best bet for the dollar?

Also, currently best make of oil filter? Again, for the dollar.



I just bought the car (00' SS M6) recently and am very new to paying attention to oil like this.

Did go ahead and pay the big bucks for Royal Purp. XPR 10w40, RP Synchromax, and RP 85w140 gear oil. It is all waiting to go in finally this weekend. Oh, also splurged for an Amsoil Ea064 oil filter, and their air filter. I've never ever spent this much for fluids before, but I really like the new car and figured I'd see what all the hype was about finally. Again, all hopefully going in this coming weekend. But, I am looking for cheaper alternatives (a compromise) as I don't know that I'll be able to afford the RP engine oil each time or that expensive of an oil filter. Maybe, but would sure like to not feel the need.


Like the sounds of the Amsoil oils, but again.......dollars like the RP.
If your changing your oil every 3-5K or 6 months then Castrol GTX and AC Delco filters will provide you with all you will ever need. I'd utilize Lube Control or Auto RX to this mix and your golden man.
A good synthetic (whatever that is anymore) and bang for the buck is hands down Pennzoil Platinum.....$3.99 a quart and on par with RedLine/RP/Amsoil for half the price. Outstanding add packs. Also VP is selling really great synthetics (100% Ester Synthetic) for around $3-$4 bucks a quart and I really like the UOA/VOA of that stuff.....great value in PP or VP. Here is the VP 5-30 Synthetic....as you can see it is $44 a case plus shipping.....not bad at all.....let the price wars begin!!!!!
http://www.vpracingfuels.com/RS530.html
LubeControl http://www.lubecontrol.com/
AutoRX http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
The real "trick" to superior lubrication isn't the oil but a clean engine. I highly recommend Lube Control or AutoRX to anybody and everybody regardless of what brand of oil or molecular makeup one is utilizing.

[2000M6SS]

Thanks much for the links Sarge, interesting products/info.

Think I'll give the Auto RX a try.

One thing I found interesting about the Auto RX was its supposed ability to stop oil leaks (rear main). Wonder (curious) about that as my LS1 has some rear main leakage with 76k on it, and unfortunately so does a 5000 mile fresh stout 351 windsor I have in a Bronco. I'm thinking the rear main leaks between the two are likely for two different reasons on my vehicles. Thinking on my LS1 it would be normal seal wear due to mileage and then on my Windsor maybe improper seal installation or surface finish, but....... and neither seem to be too bad.

So, after a quick browse of the Auto RX site it would seem I should use dino oil in both my vehicles if I'm useing the RX. Any thoughts on that with the RX?

Also, I know its been asked, but I never seem to be clear on the viscosity requirements. I've honestly always had a tendency to run 20W50 in my oldschool muscle cars that I've owned and really anything else. I'm in AZ, but do go to the mountains where it gets down to 0 F on occasion in the winter. Did 20W50 on the LS1 on my first change simply from habit, then didn't leave it in very long and went to 10W40 Syn. Blend GTX.

Really really would appreciate some input on the viscosity I should be useing for both of my vehicles, and year round or seasonal, or change if I know I'm going to be going up north???? Really always felt like I might be off on the always 20W50 thing in the past, and I realize the LS1's from reading apparently have tighter bearing clearances hence my quick switch to 10W40. Feels like we are finally going to be feeling winter here in AZ shortly so that adds to my interest.

[2000M6SS]

Did a little more reading via google search.

Sounds like with my LS1 and the mileage I should likely stay with a 40 weight. The question being on the 0, 10, or 15W.

Then on my Windsor since it has looser bearing clearances should likely stay with a 50 weight, and again the question just being on the cold startup W viscosity.

Wonder if I got that right at all.

[Sarge]

Thanks much for the links Sarge, interesting products/info.

Think I'll give the Auto RX a try.

One thing I found interesting about the Auto RX was its supposed ability to stop oil leaks (rear main). Wonder (curious) about that as my LS1 has some rear main leakage with 76k on it, and unfortunately so does a 5000 mile fresh stout 351 windsor I have in a Bronco. I'm thinking the rear main leaks between the two are likely for two different reasons on my vehicles. Thinking on my LS1 it would be normal seal wear due to mileage and then on my Windsor maybe improper seal installation or surface finish, but....... and neither seem to be too bad.

So, after a quick browse of the Auto RX site it would seem I should use dino oil in both my vehicles if I'm useing the RX. Any thoughts on that with the RX?

Also, I know its been asked, but I never seem to be clear on the viscosity requirements. I've honestly always had a tendency to run 20W50 in my oldschool muscle cars that I've owned and really anything else. I'm in AZ, but do go to the mountains where it gets down to 0 F on occasion in the winter. Did 20W50 on the LS1 on my first change simply from habit, then didn't leave it in very long and went to 10W40 Syn. Blend GTX.

Really really would appreciate some input on the viscosity I should be useing for both of my vehicles, and year round or seasonal, or change if I know I'm going to be going up north???? Really always felt like I might be off on the always 20W50 thing in the past, and I realize the LS1's from reading apparently have tighter bearing clearances hence my quick switch to 10W40. Feels like we are finally going to be feeling winter here in AZ shortly so that adds to my interest.
The 351 will do well with a 20-50 or a 10-40 either one...the LS1 I'd keep a 10-40 in it for sure. AutoRX cleans with dino oil ( I use Castrol GTX 10-40) as the synthetics keep the AUTO RX from reaching the affected or dirty areas to clean them due the add packs found in most synthetics "suspend" the Auto RX.....after the clean and rinse phases you can go back to synthetics if you wish no problems...

[2000M6SS]

Cool, thanks a bunch Sarge.

Another thing I was wondering about was if the 0W's and 5W's etc. are going to help with lubrication on startup then why wouldn't a person always in my case want to run like an 0W40 or 5W40???? If such an animal exists in a decent oil. Wouldn't that be the best protection all around? If viscosity was everything that is.

[Sarge]

Well many brands utilize poor viscosity enhancers that allow thinning of the oil after a short time ( Mobil1)......but yes.....a 5w or 0w reaches critical parts quicker on start up where 90% of your wear occurs......I like Castrol 0-30 or Amsoil 0-30 for the 30 weights....or Pennzoil Platinum 5-40 (hard to find but I ordered 2 cases) Royal Purple is also very good at start up in the 10-40 or 30 weights.........Dino oils like Castrol GTX 5-30 or 10-40 is also excellent for start up flow.....
Your after the thinnest oil you can get away with and still manage wear....see film thickness at op temps.....

[2000M6SS]

Any domestic source for Mainlube 175 Synthetic SAE 10w60 ????

If there is I bet thats not cheap. On the surface sounds like good stuff though. To me, at my oil knowledge level anyways.

[blue02Z]

holy shit, i read this entire thread and i have learned an ass load. thank you, and hats off to Sarge as you are a smart feller. i run amsoil 0-30 now but i think i'm gonna run a little auto rx with the castrol 10-40 and then go back with amsoil and maybe some valvoline oil treatment. and hey Sarge, what do you think about amsoil filters

[Sarge]

Amsoil filters are excellent. Great flow with great filtration. If your gonna do a Auto RX run...then do it right....change the oil and filter. Use Castrol GTX oil....pour the whole bottle of Auto RX in. Run it 1500 miles. Change the oil and filter. This time use Pennzoil Platinum 10-30 or 5-30 for the rinse phase. Run it 2000 miles. Now go back to your regular oil and filter.
A clean engine is an amazing thing. Ring Packs get cleaned up and compression goes up. Seals and such are cleaned up. I've seen leakers and oil burners stop after the clean/rinse phase. Stuff is just excellent with no solvents. I aint smart....just ask my wife.

[blue02Z]

well thanks again Sarge. you are the man, i think i'm gonna auto rx all my vehicles.

[blue02Z]

hey sarge, on the subject of filters, what about delco, k&n , mobile 1, bosch and such.

[Secret Formula]

Hey all, Just bought 6 qt's of Mobil 1 5W-30, and a Mobil 1 filter. I wanted to try Royal Purple, but autozone dosent carry it I guess.

[GatorSS]

You want a real 100% synthetic....killer oil....less than $5 bucks? Here it is.....deal of the century.....
http://www.vpracingfuels.com/RS530.html
Thanks for the tip, Sarge. I just ordered a case. :)

[bmyers]

last year my cousin(owns a t/a) told me not to run synthetic in my car so i called the dealer and he told me not to use it in my car until i had over 70000 miles on it, i only have 30k on mine now. is there any truth to this?

[GatorSS]

:bs:

[bmyers]

thats kind of what i thought but why the hell would they say that??

[Sarge]

last year my cousin(owns a t/a) told me not to run synthetic in my car so i called the dealer and he told me not to use it in my car until i had over 70000 miles on it, i only have 30k on mine now. is there any truth to this?
Yes your dealer married his sister and is an idiot.

[bmyers]

Yes your dealer married his sister and is an idiot.

no dispute here, just thought id run by you guys

[2000M6SS]

:hahano: :uzi: too funny........

[Goatdriver]

Hoping Sarge or someone else out there can answer my question, is auto rx compatible with synthetic oil? I plan on running Mobil-1 5-30 or 0-40 with Valvoline synthetic oil treatment and would like to run the auto rx as well. Just want to feed the goat the right mixture.:seesaw:

[blue02Z]

Hoping Sarge or someone else out there can answer my question, is auto rx compatible with synthetic oil? I plan on running Mobil-1 5-30 or 0-40 with Valvoline synthetic oil treatment and would like to run the auto rx as well. Just want to feed the goat the right mixture.:seesaw:

dude, use castrol when using auto-rx. and use a new filter fo sho. then use pennzoil platinum for the rinse faze. sarge says so, so it must be right:yup:

[Sarge]

True. Utilizing a synthetic during the cleaning phase is a waste of sorts. I'll explain....
Synthetics have significant add packs to suspend "stuff" and deliver it to the filter. When you mix Auto RX with a synthetic oil it fights against Auto RX cleaning the surfaces....in other words working against Auto RX to clean the ring packs and surfaces...so you do not get as good of a cleaning....the cleaning cycle is so damn short anyway you wouldn't want to put $5 per quart synthetic in there and drain it after just 1500 miles. Now the rinse phase you can utilize Pennzoil Platinum which works well with Auto RX.....bottom line is this...Auto RX has no solvents...Esters/Lanolins clean the shit out of your internals allowing your oil to do its job on the surfaces that normally are coated with crap.....cleans and conditions the seals...all good man...so use Castrol GTX or Pennzoil Dino for the cleaning phase and the rinse phase then go back to your oil of choice.
I've seen compression go from 20lbs per cylinder to over 90lbs after using Auto RX...cars run smoother and put down more RWHP. No snake oil going on here. Just really good chemistry and results. I'll invite the inventor and patent holder Frank over to share and answer any questions you guys may have.

[Sarge]

Just spoke with Frank. He is issuing discount coupons for LS1.COM members. I will post up the code as soon as he gets them loaded onto his website.
Thank You Frank!

[blue02Z]

hell yeah Sarge! thanx, i'm about to order some auto-rx pretty soon.

[Goatdriver]

:flex: Sarge, a couple more questions and then I'll let it rest. We bought a carryover Jeep overland with a 5.7 litre hemi which calls for 5-20 weight oil, I was in wal-mart one day and was buying some Mobil-1 oil and the only oil they had in 5-20 was Motorcraft synthetic blend and Pennzoil platinum so I went with the Pennzoil since it was a full synthetic, my question is how good is Pennzoil platinum compared to Mobil-1 or Amsoil and do you think I could run 5-30 synthetic in this vehicle (seems to me that 5-20 is awfully thin and in the summer would really thin out). Also what do you think of Shell Rotella full synthetic 5-40 oil? It says it is recomended in Detroit diesels as well as the Duramax diesel in the GMC pickups as well as gas engines. The price is similiar to Pennzoil platinum at Wal-mart less than $4 per quart and I was thinking of running it in my GMC Sierra pickup with the 5.3 litre gas engine instead of 5-30 mobil-1. Thanks for your input.:seesaw:

[GatorSS]

Thanks again, Sarge. I'm in for the Auto-Rx with the discount.

[Sarge]

:flex: Sarge, a couple more questions and then I'll let it rest. We bought a carryover Jeep overland with a 5.7 litre hemi which calls for 5-20 weight oil, I was in wal-mart one day and was buying some Mobil-1 oil and the only oil they had in 5-20 was Motorcraft synthetic blend and Pennzoil platinum so I went with the Pennzoil since it was a full synthetic, my question is how good is Pennzoil platinum compared to Mobil-1 or Amsoil and do you think I could run 5-30 synthetic in this vehicle (seems to me that 5-20 is awfully thin and in the summer would really thin out). Also what do you think of Shell Rotella full synthetic 5-40 oil? It says it is recomended in Detroit diesels as well as the Duramax diesel in the GMC pickups as well as gas engines. The price is similiar to Pennzoil platinum at Wal-mart less than $4 per quart and I was thinking of running it in my GMC Sierra pickup with the 5.3 litre gas engine instead of 5-30 mobil-1. Thanks for your input.:seesaw:
Pennzoil Platinum is damn good oil. Not just good...damn good. I know 5-20 seems like water but the UOA's are stellar...so I'd run the PP 5-20 and not worry a lick....Hell many a drag racer ( including myself) use Shell Rotella)...high detergency and excellent film strength...many say the HDEO's ruin catalytic convertors...yeah they do...after about a kabillion miles....good oil....I mean it is API rated for gas engines....I love the stuff...
To be clear...I find Pennzoil Platinum to be superior to Mobil1 and on equal to Amsoil. No doubt.

[Sarge]

We have the Auto RX coupon for members....when ordering Auto RX use this code for your discount....
ARXLS1
This stuff is the real deal. Follow the instructions............

[blue02Z]

hey Sarge, sorry to bother you but what do you think about delco, wix, bosch, and k&n filters. just wondering

[Goatdriver]

:) Thanks for the reply Sarge, one more question about filters how do the Purolator pure one filters stack up against AC/Delco or Napa Gold filters?

[Sarge]

On filters....I have cut open more than I care to admit too :) I have read every "flow and filter" test ever published and I have come to this conclusion. Fram sucks. AC Delco and Purolators are good...WIX/NAPA are great and all the rest ( KN/Mobil1) are top of the line but you wont ever be able to justify the cost of those filters and realize an equal amount of benefit over say a AC Delco....make sense? I run NAPA on everything I own except the Mercedes and it gets the lambs wool filter :)

[GatorSS]

Sarge, I received the "$44 special" case of VP Racing oil last week. In your opinion, how does it measure up compared to Amsoil S2000, Royal Purple XPR, Redline, etc.?

[Sarge]

Add packs are top shelf. PAO oil for $5 bucks....excellent results...I mean...who can compete with that? It is on par with the oils you mention. Equal should I say. No doubt.

[GatorSS]

Thanks. That's what I presumed, but I wanted to get the expert opinion to confirm. Like you say, for that price, who can compete? I'll go ahead and order some more.

[GatorSS]

Sarge, have you heard of Platinum Research Organiation (PLRO) and their TechroBond technology for oil? If so, what is your opinion of it? I'm seeing more money being poured into its testing, but I haven't really looked into it much.

[Sarge]

I know what it is. They talk about it on the other oil forum every once in awhile. Like moly on crack. Folks been "announcing" a new chemistry that bonds to metal and makes it slicker than Anna Nichole's bar stool after watching male strippers. So many issues with clogged oil passages/ring packs seized and shit....but ...I havent read enough real world experiances nor have I seen a single UOA on a car running it. So I have no opinion yet. All I have seen is marketing stuff.....

[GatorSS]

Thanks for your input. I ask because I have a few colleagues who are wanting me to invest in PLRO while gushing with enthusiasm on how it is such an awesome oportunity, etc. One has recently joined their board of directors. I asked for some detailed information from them and one of them brought a large packet of info to my office. I glanced through it and saw some pretty hard-to-believe financial projections, a bunch of marketing fluff and very little test info. So, I thought I'd ask an oil guru like yourself.

[imflyn]

I've always heard Kendall was top notch dino oil because they used oil that was from Pennsylvania. Supposedly this crude oil had some qualities that were better than most. Just wondering if anyone has heard of this and if it remains true? Now that Mobil1 is just another blend (for $6 a quart :nono: ) I'm trying to figure out what oil to switch to and hadn't really see Kendall mentioned much.

[Sarge]

I've always heard Kendall was top notch dino oil because they used oil that was from Pennsylvania. Supposedly this crude oil had some qualities that were better than most. Just wondering if anyone has heard of this and if it remains true? Now that Mobil1 is just another blend (for $6 a quart :nono: ) I'm trying to figure out what oil to switch to and hadn't really see Kendall mentioned much.
Kendall is damn fine oil and hard as hell to find. I'd steer you to VP Racings PAO oils....

[Sarge]

Thanks for your input. I ask because I have a few colleagues who are wanting me to invest in PLRO while gushing with enthusiasm on how it is such an awesome oportunity, etc. One has recently joined their board of directors. I asked for some detailed information from them and one of them brought a large packet of info to my office. I glanced through it and saw some pretty hard-to-believe financial projections, a bunch of marketing fluff and very little test info. So, I thought I'd ask an oil guru like yourself.
Yeah I've been "approached" myself....Slick 50/ZMax etc. etc...the problem with the projections of any aftermarket additive is brand loyalty will kill the new guy quick as shit...very very few success (financially) stories out there....its all about shelf space and the average Joe in Auto Zone on Saturday morning getting his Fram filter and 5 quarts of Mobil1 ain't gonna buy it. The average Joe is a sum bitch to convince anything is "good or great" and it is his wallet that does the talking....I mean look at the Tornado....POS snake oil no results...but big time marketing push...but look at the return on investment for the early investors....under 5% on the dollar.....that sucks....why so low?...overhead is 90% marketing reinvestment of AR funds...

[fritzah]

Wow, what a great thread thanks for all the great info. I still however am not sure which viscosity I should use, LS1 with 70K, piston slap for about 10 minutes after start up, no mods, generally not raced. Has been running mobil 1 10w30. Could someone recommend a better brand or viscosity, I was probably going to try the amsoil 0w30, but will wait for the experts response. thanks all.

[tonyjnjz]

uh oh...somone opened back up the oil thread........sarge is gonna get a woody :nana:

[GatorSS]

Yeah I've been "approached" myself....Slick 50/ZMax etc. etc...the problem with the projections of any aftermarket additive is brand loyalty will kill the new guy quick as shit...very very few success (financially) stories out there....its all about shelf space and the average Joe in Auto Zone on Saturday morning getting his Fram filter and 5 quarts of Mobil1 ain't gonna buy it. The average Joe is a sum bitch to convince anything is "good or great" and it is his wallet that does the talking....I mean look at the Tornado....POS snake oil no results...but big time marketing push...but look at the return on investment for the early investors....under 5% on the dollar.....that sucks....why so low?...overhead is 90% marketing reinvestment of AR funds...
So, did you ever use the ZMax? What is your opinion of it? Inquiring minds want to know.

[Rabbit]

Sarge.... Quick question. Of your top 5 oil list earlier in this post the castrol apprears to be the highest on your list that is readly avalible where I live. I am a bit confused tho, I see you reffering to differnt kinds. German and green label and this and that. I am a bit confused. If I go down to the ole autozone I assume I should get 0 30 weight but which oil do I get? It may be obvious once I get to the store. I am posting this before I go to try and same myself some cunfusion. Oh I'm driving a 01 Z28 stock if that makes a any differance. Thanks ahead of time.

[tonyjnjz]

lol sarge needs to go into the oil selling business!!!! wont be any mobile 1 at his shop!!!! :Popcorn:

[1BADDLS1]

Sarge.... Quick question. Of your top 5 oil list earlier in this post the castrol apprears to be the highest on your list that is readly avalible where I live. I am a bit confused tho, I see you reffering to differnt kinds. German and green label and this and that. I am a bit confused. If I go down to the ole autozone I assume I should get 0 30 weight but which oil do I get? It may be obvious once I get to the store. I am posting this before I go to try and same myself some cunfusion. Oh I'm driving a 01 Z28 stock if that makes a any differance. Thanks ahead of time.

the "good kind" will say made in germany on the back ... european formula on the front

[blue02Z]

Sarge.... Quick question. Of your top 5 oil list earlier in this post the castrol apprears to be the highest on your list that is readly avalible where I live. I am a bit confused tho, I see you reffering to differnt kinds. German and green label and this and that. I am a bit confused. If I go down to the ole autozone I assume I should get 0 30 weight but which oil do I get? It may be obvious once I get to the store. I am posting this before I go to try and same myself some cunfusion. Oh I'm driving a 01 Z28 stock if that makes a any differance. Thanks ahead of time.

if your going to vatozone, just get some pennzoil platinum, proly 10w30

[Rabbit]

Cool, as always thanks for the help guys.

[a338566]

Do you guys that use Mobil 1 Use 5w 30 or 10w 30?

[blue02Z]

Do you guys that use Mobil 1 Use 5w 30 or 10w 30?

i use 0w30 or 5w30. i think you should proly use the same;)

[a338566]

I have been using mobil 1 10w 30, the only reason is i read my owners manual and it lists 5w 30 and 10w 30 along with some outdoor temp ranges, this car is parked during the coldest part of the year and is rarely ran in any temp below 30 degrees. Is 5w 30 still the way to go? What is 0w 30 oil i have never heard of this

[blue02Z]

it should be fine i would think, 0w30 amsoil is what a lot of people use go to amsoil.com and research, or read this whole thread

[GatorSS]

Where did all the oil junkies go? This is the thread to get your fix. Where's the oil chief? OK, how about an oil fix question to get me out of Joan's pestering grip...she's tight.

How many agree that zMAX is the best thing for motor oil? Haven't some big wheels in motor sports, like A.J. Foyt, said it's the best speedway cocktail for race cars? They're even claiming that the Federal Trade Commission agrees with all of zMAX's claims. Or is it just mineral oil with a little coloring and a bunch of fancy marketing?

Sarge, we need your counsel. What is this zMAX cocktail?

[Sarge]

Zmax is a chemical that soaks into metal. OK....You never have to "add" a damn thing to todays oils....some are better than others....granted....but no additives...waste of money.....about the only things worth adding would be AutoRX and that is to clean and drain.....I use to use Valvoline Oil Treatment...it was good stuff....but hell the add packs in PP 10-30 dont even need that.....

[lonewolf37]

I have learned my lesson about snake oils. However this one comes with a twist. First the store has a 2 for 1 special. Then a $10 rebate per quart. They are not just giving this stuff away, they are paying me to take it.
Now that I have two quarts of this stuff, I am wondering what to do with it.
I have no idea what it is.
Should I try this treatment in my motor?
I am thinking about using it in the wifemobile (MonteCarlo 3.8 V6)
Sarge: I could use your insight on this one.

[Sarge]

The residuals that shit leaves in the passages bothers me frankly. I would give it to a Mustang guy or throw it away.

[Spaz]

The residuals that shit leaves in the passages bothers me frankly. I would give it to a Mustang guy or throw it away.

:haha:

[lonewolf37]

Point taken, Thanks for the input.

[GatorSS]

Yes, give it to a Mustank guy.

[4Bowties]

Royal Purple. No paricular reason why. After reading this may change. Only Purolator filters.

[Y2KArcticSS]

Mobil 1 Synthetic Extended Performance...just in case I go a little over the 3,000 mark...and stupid me just found out that there are Mobil 1 filters :suicide: so that's on my next oil change.

[fezz]

Castrol dino works. always slippery even after a missed change


:ar:

[02blkws6]

I don't have time to sift through all the posts. I have been experimenting with oils lately. I have used Wal-mart's SuperTech Synthetic 10w30 with a Delco filter. I switched to Valvoline Full Synthetic with a Delco Filter. I switched again to Valvoline Synthetic with K&N filter. I now am running RP with a Delco filter. After reading through some of this, I think that I am going to switch to Purolator filters for good.

Being that this car sees more track time than street use. I monitor my guages like a hawk. I noticed when switching to the K&N filter I had a little more oil pressure. I guess the Delco filter is a little more restrictive.

[KCB50L]

I use a blended oil, Penrite HPR10 witch is in the 10w50 bracket. The filter I use is a Ryco unit. (Both these Brands are local to Aust)

PS since the temps in Sydney rarely go below 0c (that's 32F) I don't see the need for thinner oils.

[Sarge]

I don't have time to sift through all the posts. I have been experimenting with oils lately. I have used Wal-mart's SuperTech Synthetic 10w30 with a Delco filter. I switched to Valvoline Full Synthetic with a Delco Filter. I switched again to Valvoline Synthetic with K&N filter. I now am running RP with a Delco filter. After reading through some of this, I think that I am going to switch to Purolator filters for good.

Being that this car sees more track time than street use. I monitor my guages like a hawk. I noticed when switching to the K&N filter I had a little more oil pressure. I guess the Delco filter is a little more restrictive.
Why all the switching? What are you after? Who is doing your UOA's? Don't confuse pressure with flow rate.

[Sarge]

I use a blended oil, Penrite HPR10 witch is in the 10w50 bracket. The filter I use is a Ryco unit. (Both these Brands are local to Aust)

PS since the temps in Sydney rarely go below 0c (that's 32F) I don't see the need for thinner oils.
People often confuse ambient temps with oil viscosity......thinner oils provide less resistance thus more HP. Today's blends provide a very stout HTHS ( High Temp High Shear) protection and you can get the same if not better protection with a thinner oil. Running too thick of oil actually wears the bearings out as the oil is too thick to get to where it needs to be and lubricate.....

[CompSyn]

People often confuse ambient temps with oil viscosity......thinner oils provide less resistance thus more HP. Today's blends provide a very stout HTHS ( High Temp High Shear) protection and you can get the same if not better protection with a thinner oil. Running too thick of oil actually wears the bearings out as the oil is too thick to get to where it needs to be and lubricate.....

:iagree:

The two functions of motor oil are to lubricate, and the other is to provide cooling. If you are running too thick of a motor oil than you need, you are reducing oil flow and thus reducing the cooling capacity of that motor oil.

Many hot rodders live by the adage that more is better. For example, if I am running 10W-30 motor oil, then 15W-50 should be way better for my car. This is generally not the case.

CompSyn

[GatorSS]

:iagree:

Many hot rodders live by the adage that more is better. For example, if I am running 10W-30 motor oil, then 15W-50 should be way better for my car. This is generally not the case.

CompSyn

Probably some of those same hot rodders who still insist that Fram oil filters are the best.

[lonewolf37]

When I change my oil I like to leave the drain plug open all night. The theory being getting the last drop of the old oil out.
Good/Bad idea?

[440 rwhp trans am]

i would say bad. just because i wouldnt like mostiure to get in the hole. just me though

[lonewolf37]

I did not think about moisture. Then again, I live in a very dry valley. It begs the question: How long to drain? This assumes you change your own and have the time.

[440 rwhp trans am]

I did not think about moisture. Then again, I live in a very dry valley. It begs the question: How long to drain? This assumes you change your own and have the time.

i wait about 30 min when im not in a hurry. or when i buy a used car. like my work trucks, when i change the oil i pour a little clean oil in and let it drain out to "flush" some of the grimmy crap the guy before me was using.

[GatorSS]

Yep, that "flush" method is what I do each oil change to get virtually all the old oil out.