Hows this small list for 1st mods? Noticable gain?

[BLK02TA]

Just got my t/a and wanna do the basics, I was thinking:

Some type of new filter lid.
Coolant Bypass
160* thermostat
Loudmouth (im set on it :notworthy: )
Pro 5-0 shifter

Is there anything else I should get? Dont wanna break the bank to bad? Local guys gonna tune it and remove the skip shift thing plus lower the temp for the fans to come on. :wall:

[BIG D's SS]

Sub frame connectors should be in the list for one of your first mods. YOu have a good list except no SFC's.

[jmhvenom]

If it has Ttops or Convert then SFCs are good. I have yet to get them and it is just fine, but notice a bit of rattle. I have those same mods, but I have a cutout instead of a Loudmount. I would definatly get an ASP Pulley, and a lid that doesnt have the AIR hole. Might get some Eibach lowering springs makes it look like a car and not a 4x4.

With those same mods plus the ones I mention, and Nitto DRs, I gained a second 14.3 -> 13.3 in an A4 with 2.73s

[BIG D's SS]

I got SFC's almost last on my list but I got them I started noticing rattles and my t-tops seemed like they shifted. Gears would also be a great mod. 3.73's for auto and 4.10's for m-6.

[BLK02TA]

Ya I want to get subframe connectors but the nice ones from slp are a little outta range right now.

Can I get a regular airbox lid and delete that hose??

[magnet]

i would port your own throttle body or pay me to do it lol....but its cheap and you see a real gain..also if you get a lid without the air whole just put a small filter in the tube a relocate it somewhere...

[SeVeReDiStOrTiOn]

While you're putting doing the bypass and before you put your new lid on...do the FRA mod. Some say don't cut the baffle underneath...but I did and haven't had any probs...filter gets dirty faster though. It'll walk you through the mod here....it's free and just takes a little time.http://installuniversity.com/install_university/index.htm

[djvaly]

some info on calculating HP, and my bolts on mods below:
A4 TA, substract 18% to 20% from the engine hp and you get hp to the rear wheel.
The M6 are said to be about 16% power loss..
so let's take my '99 A4 TA which claims 305hp to engine. That means
305-(305*0.18) = 304-54.9 = 250.1rwhp as stock engine.

my Mods:
I've got bolt on mods, lid and filter (5rwhp), SLP cold air induction kit (8rwhp), smooth bellow (5rwhp), Gratenelli MAF (5rwhp), 160F thermo, cat back Corsa (15rwhp), HyperTech Programer II (10rwhp), ASP Underdrive Pulley(12rwhp).

This dynoed the car at 315wrhp. so all those bolts on gave me only about 60-65 rwhp gain which is just about right. I did spent $850 on the Corsa, then $250 on the HPP3, and then another $300-$400 on the rest, about $1500 total which is about right for 60rwhp gain. If you were to spend $2000 on new head cyclinder it would bump you 50-60rwhp so I think I made a pretty good investment so far on the bolt ons.

My next move is to get jet-hot long tube haders and Y pipe which will add 20-25rwhp and then
get ls6 manifold intake adding another 10rwhp. And when I get $2-3k aside next year I can get the
head/cam package Patriot stage III probably which will get me in the 420rwhp with a nice tune.

PS. I did get the Eibach Pro kit lowering 1.25, it looks great.. use the stock shocks as you won't bottom out with this unless you go with 2inches springs.
If you lower your ride and want to do LT headers and Y pipe later, you can still do it just stay away from the SLP brand since they will eat an additional 1-1.5 inch into the clearance and may scrape/bottom out every now and then.

[99blueZ]

some info on calculating HP, and my bolts on mods below:
A4 TA, substract 18% to 20% from the engine hp and you get hp to the rear wheel.
The M6 are said to be about 16% power loss..
so let's take my '99 A4 TA which claims 305hp to engine. That means
305-(305*0.18) = 304-54.9 = 250.1rwhp as stock engine.

my Mods:
I've got bolt on mods, lid and filter (5rwhp), SLP cold air induction kit (8rwhp), smooth bellow (5rwhp), Gratenelli MAF (5rwhp), 160F thermo, cat back Corsa (15rwhp), HyperTech Programer II (10rwhp), ASP Underdrive Pulley(12rwhp).

This dynoed the car at 315wrhp. so all those bolts on gave me only about 60-65 rwhp gain which is just about right. I did spent $850 on the Corsa, then $250 on the HPP3, and then another $300-$400 on the rest, about $1500 total which is about right for 60rwhp gain. If you were to spend $2000 on new head cyclinder it would bump you 50-60rwhp so I think I made a pretty good investment so far on the bolt ons.

My next move is to get jet-hot long tube haders and Y pipe which will add 20-25rwhp and then
get ls6 manifold intake adding another 10rwhp. And when I get $2-3k aside next year I can get the
head/cam package Patriot stage III probably which will get me in the 420rwhp with a nice tune.

PS. I did get the Eibach Pro kit lowering 1.25, it looks great.. use the stock shocks as you won't bottom out with this unless you go with 2inches springs.
If you lower your ride and want to do LT headers and Y pipe later, you can still do it just stay away from the SLP brand since they will eat an additional 1-1.5 inch into the clearance and may scrape/bottom out every now and then.


Way to open up a ancient thead.

Ok you got some problems with your post. Your T/A probably has about 330 crank hp stock - these cars are underrated. You car stock is probably 280rwhp. Thus you gained about 35rwhp from your mods. 315-280= 35. not the 60+ you were dreaming of. Here are the more realistic gains for your mods: lid and filter -10rwhp, SLP cold air induction kit -0rwhp, smooth bellow -0rwhp, Gratenelli MAF -0rwhp, 160F thermo, cat back Corsa -15rwhp, HyperTech Programer II -0rwhp, ASP Underdrive Pulley -10rwhp.

[djvaly]

a fresh look at things. thanks for the info :)

[Kyle C]

My dyno results are in the sig at various levels of simple bolt on mod.s

[BlackLT1Z28]

Yeah, there's really no way to estimate how much power your car gained from bolt-ons unless you dyno it before and after. All advertised performance gains are and should be treated as heresay. Most advertisers advertise their highest tested gain for any product, not the average gain. Like SLP advertises "gain up to # hp", but most people won't hit that #. Its a gimmick. You'll maybe get half.

[Silver Streak]

My dyno run of full stock except ffor a LG lid.. ran 306/323 to the wheels... which if figureing 18% that makes around 375 crank hp.. right?I'd say thats a far cry from the 325 GM said.. :)

[BLK02TA]

Hehe back from the dead :D

Now she's got:

LM2
Pro 5-0 w/ LSS + Hurst 6speed knob
MTI Lid w/ K&N
Ported TB (Done by myself, turned out really nice!)
SLP 160* Tstat
Tuning from a local guy w/ HP Tuners

Hoping to add a pulley, delete the AIR, and 17or18's soon!

[firesilver]

Yeah, there's really no way to estimate how much power your car gained from bolt-ons unless you dyno it before and after. All advertised performance gains are and should be treated as heresay. Most advertisers advertise their highest tested gain for any product, not the average gain. Like SLP advertises "gain up to # hp", but most people won't hit that #. Its a gimmick. You'll maybe get half.

Listen to him you cant trust the advertisers, on most of their products it will say something like up to 15hp.

[djvaly]

good info guys.. thanx

[Ripper415]

Way to open up a ancient thead.

Ok you got some problems with your post. Your T/A probably has about 330 crank hp stock - these cars are underrated. You car stock is probably 280rwhp. Thus you gained about 35rwhp from your mods. 315-280= 35. not the 60+ you were dreaming of. Here are the more realistic gains for your mods: lid and filter -10rwhp, SLP cold air induction kit -0rwhp, smooth bellow -0rwhp, Gratenelli MAF -0rwhp, 160F thermo, cat back Corsa -15rwhp, HyperTech Programer II -0rwhp, ASP Underdrive Pulley -10rwhp.

I've heard these cars were underrated from the factory, but I highly doubt by that much. If his car is advertised at 305 it probably has 315 MAYBE 320 at the crank, no way its 330. If thats the case, my 2002 SS w/ slp dual duals should have around 360 hp instead of the 335 advertised....cmon now. also, you dont think the slp CAI will net a gain of any hp? I know they advertise a 10hp gain, so realistically you get around 5. but 5 is still more than 0. However, it is true that you dont really get the full benefit until you're going at higher speeds.

[djvaly]

point taken Ripper man :)

[Phlash_riot]

I've heard these cars were underrated from the factory, but I highly doubt by that much. If his car is advertised at 305 it probably has 315 MAYBE 320 at the crank, no way its 330. If thats the case, my 2002 SS w/ slp dual duals should have around 360 hp instead of the 335 advertised....cmon now. also, you dont think the slp CAI will net a gain of any hp? I know they advertise a 10hp gain, so realistically you get around 5. but 5 is still more than 0. However, it is true that you dont really get the full benefit until you're going at higher speeds.


for ls1 engines just goto GM web site.... bah just click link below

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/GMPerformanceParts/EngineShowcase/index.jsp?engId=LS1&engine=LS1&sku=25534322&engCat=ls

third paragrahph says it all

[djvaly]

good info from GM link above, pasted it here in case the content disappears one day. ;)

LS1 engine:
A new small-block legend in its own time!
When GM dared to release a redesigned small-block in 1997, it succeeded beyond the expectations of enthusiasts around the world. Known as the LS Family V-8 small-block, the first and most popular version is the high-performance LS1 –available here as a complete crate engine from GM Performance Parts.
In many ways, the LS1 is superior to any small-block that came before it. A deep-skirt, six-bolt-main block, with structural oil pan and other carefully engineered features, helps make the LS1 a strong, smooth running and dependable engine. A highlift camshaft actuating big 2.00/1.55 valves in symmetrical-port cylinder heads helps make it a uncompromised performer.
The engine is rated at 350 horsepower and 365 lb.-ft. of torque. The engine includes a GTO-style oil pan, electronic drive-bywire throttle body, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, fuel rail with injectors, balancer, and 14" automatic transmission flexplate. It makes a great performance engine for your performance vehicle project – just add your wiring and electronics.
A handy reference guide is available to help install the engine in older cars with minimal guesswork.

Go high-tech with your next project!
*Applications have not been validated. They are merely suggestions of how you might enjoy your GM Performance Parts crate engine. Some applications may affect engine warranty. Some applications may not be emission legal; check state and local ordinances.

[Hurley711]

I've heard these cars were underrated from the factory, but I highly doubt by that much. If his car is advertised at 305 it probably has 315 MAYBE 320 at the crank, no way its 330. If thats the case, my 2002 SS w/ slp dual duals should have around 360 hp instead of the 335 advertised....cmon now. also, you dont think the slp CAI will net a gain of any hp? I know they advertise a 10hp gain, so realistically you get around 5. but 5 is still more than 0. However, it is true that you dont really get the full benefit until you're going at higher speeds.

Sorry man but you are just wrong on this one. No biggie, but it's been proven time and time again on the dyno that these cars WERE underrated big time. 2 reasons.....1. To keep Corvette guys happy that they had more power....2. To keep insurance rates down. 98-00 models frequently dyno in the 285-300 range at the wheels, and 01-02 with the LS6 manifold usually put down over 300. Do the math, 300 at the wheels is well north of 320 at the crank.:true:

[Phlash_riot]

i wish someone had some dyno sheets on a stock car to prove all this. a T/A buddy of mone said to me yesterday that my 99 T/A only havd 320 at the crankand the ws6 was like 325 even after i showed him the GM WEB SITE!!!... sigh* some people can never take black and white proof....


It's really a mute point though i guess.... were still mustang slayers

[Silver Streak]

My stock car.... only thing done was an LG lid.
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n302/TheGeno/GenoDyno2.jpg

[Phlash_riot]

so just add for drive train loss and have base flywheel hp.
is your auto or manual?
What % on an auto anyhow?

[Silver Streak]

Thats an auto (you can tell by the torque converter at the beginning) and for an auto its like 15-18% loss.. manual is like 12-15% I believe. So with figuring that.. I SHOULD have around 375flywheel hp.. STOCK

[djvaly]

yep, for stock ls1 98-00 TA is 350flywheel, WS6 370+

[LS2Tuner]

I would start making EVERY bit of horsepower your making now put to the ground!!!
As in hooking up........Starting with a good old pair of V-6 rear springs from the junkyard.........:yup: Then I would bolt on a pair of Mickey Thompson or M&H Drag Radials.......And then if the car hooks up I would move on to making more power......Is the clutch slipping now that your getting traction......?

Theres my 2 cents....:worship:

[djvaly]

here's a good explanation of LS1 and diferences on each application of LS1.
read the LS1 section....
depending on the application the hp can vary, but it is about 345-350 at crank. notice the diference in 2001 and 2002 models, WS6 and firehawks.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LS1

[Ripper415]

interesting.....ok, so if the corvette and fbodys both used the same engine, they should both have the exact same hp at the crank then? also, in the last article, it said that some 2002 fbodys were made using the ls6 engine block. how would us 2002 owners be able to see if our cars had them?

[djvaly]

if you dyno stock bone @290rwhp then you most likely don't have LS6 intake manifold.. For Fbody, WS6 and firehawks pull 300-305rwhp stock usually because of the LS6 intake manifold and the air lid. also 2001-2002 WS6 models/firehawks definetely have them see below link..
For FBody, read the sticky post on the differences... it's out there, similar to Camaros evolution:

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27514

[hiramsuito]

i would port your own throttle body or pay me to do it lol....but its cheap and you see a real gain..also if you get a lid without the air whole just put a small filter in the tube a relocate it somewhere...

Hey man, how much would you charge me for the TB porting ?
I don't have much free time and I don't wanna buy those expensive TB's from ebay.

[dan23467]

interesting.....ok, so if the corvette and fbodys both used the same engine, they should both have the exact same hp at the crank then? also, in the last article, it said that some 2002 fbodys were made using the ls6 engine block. how would us 2002 owners be able to see if our cars had them?


yep, this proves it
ourworld.cs.com/jrp98ls1/proofofpower.jpg

edit: sorry didnt have 5 posts yet so i couldnt make a link

[nhraformula]

if you dyno stock bone @290rwhp then you most likely don't have LS6 intake manifold.. For Fbody, WS6 and firehawks pull 300-305rwhp stock usually because of the LS6 intake manifold and the air lid. also 2001-2002 WS6 models/firehawks definetely have them see below link..
For FBody, read the sticky post on the differences... it's out there, similar to Camaros evolution:

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27514

all f-bodys got the ls6 intake in 01, not only firehawks and ram airs.

[nhraformula]

interesting.....ok, so if the corvette and fbodys both used the same engine, they should both have the exact same hp at the crank then? also, in the last article, it said that some 2002 fbodys were made using the ls6 engine block. how would us 2002 owners be able to see if our cars had them?

no they wouldnt have the same power at the crank. the corvette has a true dual exhaust and the f-body doesnt.

[nhraformula]

who gives a fiddlers fuck about crank h.p.
its all about rwhp.

[Hurley711]

who gives a fiddlers fuck about crank h.p.
its all about rwhp.

Big M....I do sincerely care about the fiddlers fuck......:hahano:

[Phlash_riot]

If you had two intake manifolds side by side how could you tell the LS6 from the LS1?