want to add rwhp

[dsack1]

iv'e got a stock ls1 only mod.is a k&n filter. i want to increase the hps to about 400 its at about 325 right now. i've got around $1600 to play with right now. what should i start with? also want to step up the exhaust.

[nhraformula]

pacesetter headers(coated) and a y pipe is about $500
hooker exhaust is about $300.
a full cam kit will cost about $700-800.
above so far is the 1600 you have to spend.
youre going to need more money for the instal and tune, around 1k or so.
i suggest you save up the money and do everything at once.

[dsack1]

well, i'm getting some mods done, i'm getting the ceramic headman headers and magnaflow 3" exhaust also getting a hyper tech programmer. should help out for now.

[c5ls1vette]

you might want to think about adding a small shot of nitrous. It is definitely the most bang for your buck.

[Capster78]

If you plan on ever being able to get that to the ground you beter look into some suspension mods.

[dsack1]

what do you mean (get it to the ground) and what do you suggest.

[Capster78]

Most stock F-bodies will run 2.2-2.0 60ft's on street tires. Some will dip into the 1.9's if the track is well preped. For every .1 you shave off your 60ft time you gain apx .15 at the end. So imagine if you could turn that 2.0 60ft into a 1.6 60ft. That could make a difference of .6 tenths on your 1/4 mile time. That is alot of time in a race. If you ever run at the track and run against a car that's .6 tenths faster than you its a sizeable lead. Add some suspension mods without even adding any power to the car at all and you will improve your time. Your car never really got any more powerfull, you just spent less time at the line spinning the tires.

Id recommend a tubular K-member and A-arms (lightens the weight up front alot so that you can get more of that weight transfering to the rear tires). An adjustable Torque arm set at -2 or -3 degrees pinion angle. A Race rear sway bar with spherical rod ends. Id get relocation brackets and lower control arms. Id also get some sub frame connectors. Remove the front sway bar, get a strutt tower brace. Get QA1 Drag shocks and springs. Get 4.10 gears and some Drag Radials. You should be on your way to 1.6 60fts with some practice.

[dsack1]

have'nt had the car on the track yet, but i do hear it calling my name, thanks for all the info, your never to old to learn, thanks.

[FireHawk#75]

Look dude - he never said he wanted drag times - i got a 1.78 60ft time with my 1995 trans am with 130,000miles and worn out shocks so i don't want to hear it(and for shit's sake don't take off the sway bar like a mustang owner!:dance: ) - he wanted 400hp - at the wheels or at the flywheel i don't know - but if he want's it at the flywheel he just needs a (lid)(85mmMAF)(TB)(catless y-pipe)(cut-out)(LT headers)(dyno tune) - if he want's that in rear wheel he needs all of the above plus (cam + springs)and mabey(mildly ported heads)

[Redphoenix1998]

Damn, 400, I think I went overkill with 500 :lol: If I had my way....again...and my goal was 400 and not some ridiculous amount, definately look into LT's with a catless Y, look into pacesetter for that one. Get a set of good header gaskets like seal 4 goods or copper as well as locking header bolts. It will save out in the long run. Look into an electric cutout, trust me, you won't be sorry. Some say there are no gains, but I've tested it myself on back to back runs with a friend and with the cutout open, there was a significant amount of pull in the midrange. Look into a pulley, LS6 or LSx manifold. Go to Shaner and get a ported TB not that BBK 80mm. Keep the stock MAF but get a set of ported MAF ends. Looks like you have an SS, look into the SLP underbody CAI kit, you're not getting much with that SS scoop. Get a lid, ditch the hypertech and look into a real tune. You only have to do it once so might as well have it done right. Go to Thunderracing and check out their cams. A lot will give you Dynographs with gains and loses and the powerbands of their cams and you pick a cam from there. 400 is attainable with stock heads just make sure you get a set of dual springs and squeeze out the HP with a set of rockers. Don't get harland sharps, I personally have had a bad experience with them and I've heard from others as well. Do all the other supporting mods as well such as your suspension cause it will help you when you hit 400 rwhp. Also start looking into a moser 12 bolt if you're planning on going to the track with 400 rwhp. You will fry the stocker. There are a lot fo opinions on what will get you to 400 rwhp or more, just do some research and ask around and check out other setups.

[broken]

nawsss

[broken]

cutouts alwyas leak and break :( buy a good one or none at all

[broken]

12 bolt is a good idea if u get sticky tires

[cam02ss]

how i progressed was first bolt ons, then a cam, then heads, etc. NOW im getting ready to order a 408. i guess i got bit by the bug

[dsack1]

thanks for all the responce's on adding hp. i'm just getting started with this and will take me some time to figure out whats best. i'm so f-n busy right now i don't know when i'll have time to run it. it only comes out of the garage once every couple of weeks as it is. damn. again thanks for the info, LATE.

[SeVeReDiStOrTiOn]

well, i'm getting some mods done, i'm getting the ceramic headman headers and magnaflow 3" exhaust also getting a hyper tech programmer. should help out for now.
Don't get a hyper tech programmer.....get a predator for a handheld. It does so much more then the hypertech...you can add and pull timing and fuel for starters....and RWTD has unlimited custom tunes for 6 months if you buy through them...although they are slacking on that part.

[Bombguy99Z28]

A tornado and hypertech will get you 400rwhp easy...










Or for reals, I'd get a cam, longtubes, and your choice of tuning software. Heads would be nice but would cost more money than would fit your plan.

Or get a 150 wet shot, and spend the other $1000 on a bunch of white chalky stuff and loose women.

[Capster78]

My personal opinion is that if your going to spend all that money on gaining power you should be able to use 100% of it. I cant tell you how many times a race is won in the first 60ft (be it street race, race at the track). There is a big difference between a 1.78 and low 1.6 60fts. Have people run 1.6 60fts on stock suspension, sure.. Most of that is due to the drivers ability, but imagine if they had the proper suspension. I can say from personal expirience that spending the money on suspension is well worth it. I went from running a 12.74 @ 108 MPH with a 1.86 60ft with mostly stock suspension to running a 12.26 @ 110MPH with a 1.64 60ft and all I did was a little weight reduction and suspension work. Do what you want but there is no better feeling that sticking that 1.6x launch.

[RGR Pete]

I have stock supension and cut 1.5's. I see all these people with $$$ set ups(DD) and they cut 1.7's. I will have a 1.4's 60ft this year on my stock sup. My car is a full weight street car (DD) I dont want road noise, banging, creaking. A good cam and headers will get you 400.