lowering process

[GottaHaveLS1]

How difficult is it to lower an F body? Are lowering springs the only thing you need? I heard that if lowering springs are used on stock struts, it will gradually damage the struts. Can someone describe what i would have to do once i have the new springs?

[krazyz28]

How difficult is it to lower an F body? Are lowering springs the only thing you need? I heard that if lowering springs are used on stock struts, it will gradually damage the struts. Can someone describe what i would have to do once i have the new springs?
You will get about 5,000 miles or so from the stock struts/shocks after installing springs with a 1 1/2inch drop. Also I would get sub frame connectors as soon as u can if you havn't already done so. I would recommend purchasing the springs/struts together that way you don't have to do things twice.

After installing the springs/struts make sure you get an alignment as soon as possible to prevent improper tire wear.

Also will you be lowering the car yourself?

[GottaHaveLS1]

I would probably do the lowering myself. The guides on ls1howto.com are very clear and helpful.

[third_shift|studios]

don't use subframes unless your tracking b/c they aren't worth the weight. get front sway bars instead. If your gonna do springs, yes do shocks. SLP has a kit for 600, or you can spend up to 2000 on koni's shocks and BMR springs. It's all up to you.

[bad99ta]

I would do subframe connectors so you can strengthen the chassis. You can get Koni Single Adjustable shocks for $800 + $25 shipping from www.stranoparts.com. They also make Double adjustable's $1,300 but most people recommend the SAs because there's a lot more room for error with the DAs. Lowering springs usually run from $200-$250.

[third_shift|studios]

the whole world is crazy but me. SFC's are a waste

[bad99ta]

the whole world is crazy but me. SFC's are a waste Why would it be a waste to stiffen the chassis, especially on a car that is a convertable or T-Tops? If you put down enough power your going to twist the car's frame. SFC's will prevent that from happening. Ok, maybe a stock F-body won't need SFC's but when you start putting down serious RWHP then SFC's are a must. IMO any F-body that is a convertable or T-Tops, SFC's are a must even if it's stock. So you have a trade off happening, you gain weight which is bad, but your car gains strength which is good. A reduction in chassis flex is going to help you any way you look at it.

[mrr23]

lowered a 98 once. the rear shocks immediately bottomed out when hitting a bump. i think they were jamex springs. so, shorter shocks are in order.

[98_Formula]

i put eibach sportlines on my 98 formula with teh stock rear shocks, it has 83,000+ miles on em and there still fine, that was a year ago, i replaced the fronts

[krazyz28]

don't use subframes unless your tracking b/c they aren't worth the weight. get front sway bars instead. If your gonna do springs, yes do shocks. SLP has a kit for 600, or you can spend up to 2000 on koni's shocks and BMR springs. It's all up to you.

I agree with bad99ta. Subframe connectors are a must on any fbody that is a convertible or t-top especially if you run tires that can hook up. BMR boxed subframe connectors only weigh in around around 20-30 pounds. Most stereo systems weigh more than that.

I waited way too long to install mine and am paying for it now. Car has 45,000 miles on with visible signs of a twisting chassis. Most of my body paneling doesn't line up anymore and the driver side t-top has a slightly visible air gap in it now when looking from behind the car. Plus My torque arm is now warped which will be replaced shortly.

If you drive your car even somewhat hard, then subframe connectors are a must to help keep your suspension geometry where it should.


:drivin: :drivin: