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ls1camino
03-21-2009, 12:47 AM
Well, I just spent almost hours of grunting, busting up my hands, tearing my jeans and bruising my knees putting my new 9" into Nymphadora. After all of that work, my drivesaft doesn't match the new rear. I'm wondering, can I just swap out end caps on the the u-joint for smaller ones? And how do I go about finding the right size?

ls1camino
03-21-2009, 12:53 AM
Also, how much gear oil do I put in the rear? Cause I put about 1.5 quarts in and it didn't even look any was in there (flashlight in the fill plug :lol:). I also just realized that one of the quarts I put in said "LS" on the bottle. I'm assuming that means Limited Slip, which my rear is not (locker). Does it really make a difference (it's the smae weight...75W90)?

bills98ta
03-21-2009, 02:17 AM
They make an adapter u-joint. Had to get one for my moser rear. two caps are larger. I don't think you can buy just two larger caps. Is it a spool rear ?

Bottesini
03-21-2009, 08:05 AM
For the driveshaft you will need a 1350 conversion U-joint (Napa part #447) unless you went with the 1310 yoke of course.

The rear should hold right around 3 quarts, and I would just put in whatever the manufacture recommends (mine with the true trac did not need any additive).

One_Bad_TA
03-21-2009, 06:23 PM
For the driveshaft you will need a 1350 conversion U-joint (Napa part #447) unless you went with the 1310 yoke of course.

The rear should hold right around 3 quarts, and I would just put in whatever the manufacture recommends (mine with the true trac did not need any additive).

I had to buy 4 quarts because I kept spilling it trying to poor it into the hole. I had the bracket for the torque arm on and couldnt get fluid in with the stupid hose. I also have the trac loc so no additive was needed. These 4.56s are crazy!! :burnout: I love them!!

9t8z28
03-28-2009, 05:56 PM
I considered getting the conversion U-joint but decided against it after I saw a 1350 spicer! The 1350 Spicers are hugh and will most likely last a lot longer than a 1310/1350 but they will require a different driveshaft. I have a Strange 3" chromoly DS and it is robust.

RedVertTA
03-29-2009, 11:27 AM
Got pics of the work in progress?

blackbirdbrain89
03-29-2009, 07:37 PM
used my stock drive shaft and the nappa 447 u joint works out just right. and note for the books take ur drive shaft to a good shop too put the u joint in cus the stock one is put in then injected with nylon to hold it

pajeff02
03-30-2009, 09:53 AM
I had the driveshaft out over the weekend to change my trans seal and noticed that the rear joint had a tight spot. To change it I welded up a simple tool for pressing out the u-joint end caps. The ends contact the u-joint on each side of center so there is no chance of bending anything during removal or reassembly. The plastic injected rings just shear away as you press the caps out -- but it did take some pressure to get them started.

pajeff02
03-30-2009, 10:03 AM
Got pics of the work in progress?

And I forgot to mention, +1 on the request for pics.

blackbirdbrain89
04-02-2009, 07:11 PM
when i did mine i uses a 15 inch bench vise and a huge ass hand press with a 3 ft bar and was doing chin ups trying to get that pos out.... ok im 175 X3 =575 ft lbs and i even tryed to heat it up with a torch

pajeff02
04-03-2009, 05:18 AM
Ouch! Shop press from Grizzly for $209 -- has a good size frame and no chin ups required!

ls1camino
04-05-2009, 06:43 AM
Pictures as promised:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h231/ls1camino/Winter%20Rebuild/IMG_1698.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h231/ls1camino/Winter%20Rebuild/IMG_1699.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h231/ls1camino/Winter%20Rebuild/IMG_1702.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h231/ls1camino/Winter%20Rebuild/IMG_1703.jpg

I still don't have the sway bar...kinda interesting driving without it...ass end goes everywhere :lol: I also need to get the e-brake brackets welded on, have to put it in gear when I park it.

shady milkman
04-05-2009, 06:48 AM
oh shit electronic cutout son! ...good work so far...i hate all you guys buliet proofing your drivetrain right now

pajeff02
04-05-2009, 07:04 AM
Nice! +1 on the cutout!

9t8z28
04-05-2009, 07:42 AM
Looks good!

Why don't you just temporarily bolt on the stock sway bar?

One_Bad_TA
04-05-2009, 07:28 PM
Yea the stock sway bar is a PITA. Stock clamps dont fit around the axle tubes nor do 3" exhaust clamps. I still dont have mine in. Im still trying to figure out what to do with it. But my 9" is worrying me a bit, its been whining and Im getting a vibration when Im coasting or under light acceleration. Dont mean to thread jack but does anyone have these problems? It could be my steep gears(4.56) or me being paranoid and I dont want my expensive investment to blow up

ls1camino
04-05-2009, 08:29 PM
Yea the stock sway bar is a PITA. Stock clamps dont fit around the axle tubes nor do 3" exhaust clamps. I still dont have mine in. Im still trying to figure out what to do with it. But my 9" is worrying me a bit, its been whining and Im getting a vibration when Im coasting or under light acceleration. Dont mean to thread jack but does anyone have these problems? It could be my steep gears(4.56) or me being paranoid and I dont want my expensive investment to blow up

Exact same with mine...I figure it's the Detroit Locker and 4.10s. I'll give it more time, especially after I get the sway bar on and really get on it.

9t8z28
04-05-2009, 08:52 PM
If it whines now, it will always whine. One Bad T/A and LS1camino, where did you guys get your rears? New or used?

ls1camino
04-06-2009, 02:41 AM
If it whines now, it will always whine. One Bad T/A and LS1camino, where did you guys get your rears? New or used?

Used here.

And I really don't mind if it whines, as long as it's not that, I'm-just-whining-cause-I'm-going-to-blow-up-on-you whine.

RedVertTA
04-06-2009, 04:15 AM
Job well done, thanks for the pics.

One_Bad_TA
04-06-2009, 05:24 AM
If it whines now, it will always whine. One Bad T/A and LS1camino, where did you guys get your rears? New or used?

I got mine new from a guy who is a direct dealer of Moser. At a really good price

One_Bad_TA
04-06-2009, 05:28 AM
Exact same with mine...I figure it's the Detroit Locker and 4.10s. I'll give it more time, especially after I get the sway bar on and really get on it.

Wow that makes me feel a lot better, I have a Trac Loc, which is what the guy told me, and he shimmed it up so I shouldnt have to worry about that. Ive got over 800 miles on mine and no sounds have changed and nothing else has been noticeable. I checked my u joint it is good, after driving home from work you can hold your hand to the diff and it isnt hot at all. So Im pretty sure this is normal but thanks Ls1camino, that makes me feel sooo much better

9t8z28
04-06-2009, 05:31 AM
I got mine new from a guy who is a direct dealer of Moser. At a really good price

I would contact them if you feel it is excessive.

One_Bad_TA
04-06-2009, 05:36 AM
I would contact them if you feel it is excessive.

I talked to him about what I was experiencing and what was going on and he told me as long as the sounds are not getting louder or more violent, there is sufficient oil in it, and the diff is cool enough to touch after drving I should be ok. I think i still might contact them just to make sure

9t8z28
04-06-2009, 05:40 AM
Used here.

And I really don't mind if it whines, as long as it's not that, I'm-just-whining-cause-I'm-going-to-blow-up-on-you whine.

Did you ever pull out the center section and check it out? I would have and you should always do that when you buy a used rear. And IMO, even if it was new, I would check the clearances.

One_Bad_TA
04-06-2009, 05:42 AM
Did you ever pull out the center section and check it out? I would have and you should always do that when you buy a used rear. And IMO, even if it was new, I would check the clearances.

Actually I got the housing first, put that in the car then waited for him to set up the pumpkin and threw that in after the rear end was bolted up. Ill see if I can take the person for a ride just to see what they say

9t8z28
04-06-2009, 05:45 AM
Actually I got the housing first, put that in the car then waited for him to set up the pumpkin and threw that in after the rear end was bolted up. Ill see if I can take the person for a ride just to see what they say

When does the vibration accure?

Do you have an adjustable T/A ?

Sometimes a slight whine or vibration can be caused by an improper pinion angle and can be cured by adjusting it. Every car will react different to a given angle.

One_Bad_TA
04-06-2009, 05:55 AM
When does the vibration accure?

Do you have an adjustable T/A ?

Sometimes a slight whine or vibration can be caused by an improper pinion angle and can be cured by adjusting it. Every car will react different to a given angle.

It occurs when Im coasting or light acceleration. No I do not I have the stock torque arm. I do have a prothane tranny mount which did create some vibration but I will have to look into that pinion angle, how do you check that?

9t8z28
04-06-2009, 06:01 AM
It occurs when Im coasting or light acceleration. No I do not I have the stock torque arm. I do have a prothane tranny mount which did create some vibration but I will have to look into that pinion angle, how do you check that?

The pinion could be to deep or you could have excessive pinion to ring gear clearance. There is not much you can do about it. You should have it looked at.

To check the pinion angle, you will need a level finder and search on here for a good write up on how to adjust it. There is not really anything that you can do to change it other than get an adjustable T/A. Lowering a car and some other things can effect it and sometimes small changes create these issues.

ls1camino
04-06-2009, 01:38 PM
I have an adjustable torque arm, I just haven't installed it yet. What is a good way to find the proper angle? Should the pinion yoke be perfectly level/even/parallel with the ground?

shady milkman
04-06-2009, 01:39 PM
i herd -2 to -1 is a good setup

9t8z28
04-06-2009, 04:44 PM
i herd -2 to -1 is a good setup

This is true. It is a good place to start but all cars will react different.

shady milkman
04-06-2009, 04:46 PM
This is true. It is a good place to start but all cars will react different.

oh i hear ya..just giving him a starting point/good setup

9t8z28
04-06-2009, 05:00 PM
Here is a good video to give you an idea of what you need to do. You do not have to use an angle finder but believe me, it will save you alot of aggrivation. They are cheap too, only about $12-$18

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAQgLbhQ0uk

shady milkman
04-06-2009, 05:33 PM
Here is a good video to give you an idea of what you need to do. You do not have to use an angle finder but believe me, it will save you alot of aggrivation. They are cheap too, only about $12-$18

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAQgLbhQ0uk

nice!

ls1camino
04-06-2009, 06:55 PM
Here is a good video to give you an idea of what you need to do. You do not have to use an angle finder but believe me, it will save you alot of aggrivation. They are cheap too, only about $12-$18

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAQgLbhQ0uk

Is much going to change if it's not "at factory ride height"?

9t8z28
04-06-2009, 06:57 PM
Is much going to change if it's not "at factory ride height"?

Yes,

ls1camino
04-06-2009, 07:15 PM
Yes,

Should I still shoot for negative 2 Degrees? or should I go researching? Cause honestly, my ride height is "custom" Eibach Prokit on the front and stock springs on the back.

9t8z28
04-06-2009, 07:18 PM
Should I still shoot for negative 2 Degrees? or should I go researching? Cause honestly, my ride height is "custom" Eibach Prokit on the front and stock springs on the back.

Honestly just check it. Shoot for 0 to -2 and see what works best. It my be dead on from a factory spec but that doesn't mean it is right for you setup

SVG210
04-06-2009, 07:47 PM
are these moser 9'' an easy drop in for our F body's? or are special mods required, I hear that you have to cut somewhere on the floor, is that ture?

Dr.Crash
04-06-2009, 08:03 PM
i want one!!!!! :cry:

ls1camino
04-06-2009, 08:06 PM
are these moser 9'' an easy drop in for our F body's? or are special mods required, I hear that you have to cut somewhere on the floor, is that ture?

Not that I know of.

SVG210
04-07-2009, 07:58 PM
ohh I see, I thought I read, that somebody was having problems with their torque arm that was supplied by moser. I guess thats for the 12inchs.

One_Bad_TA
04-08-2009, 05:32 AM
ohh I see, I thought I read, that somebody was having problems with their torque arm that was supplied by moser. I guess thats for the 12inchs.

12"??? That rear must be huge...lol

SVG210
04-08-2009, 01:55 PM
12"??? That rear must be huge...lol

:lol: it was late night give me a brake :chair:

I meant 12 bolt lol

Bottesini
04-08-2009, 02:03 PM
are these moser 9'' an easy drop in for our F body's? or are special mods required, I hear that you have to cut somewhere on the floor, is that ture?

For the most part it is just a drop in. You do have to fab up a way to make the stock sway bar fit, and you have to be creative for the brake lines (I just used big zip ties).

I have heard that some people do not have enough clearance in the tunnel for the torque arm, but mine went in without an issue.

bills98ta
04-08-2009, 02:18 PM
On a hard dip / or squat, mine has hit the tunnel, but nothing to worrie about. Recomend getting adjustable LCA's though... Mine needed adjusted forward to get my tires back on... ( I run 28" DR's )

Jays00ss
04-08-2009, 05:17 PM
are these moser 9'' an easy drop in for our F body's? or are special mods required, I hear that you have to cut somewhere on the floor, is that ture?

They drop right in. You have to do a little "body modification" where the torque arm mount hits the body. A little rivet gun (air hammer) or BFH (big fucking hammer) modification is needed on the body to accomodate the torque arm mount to prevent vibration. Not noticed from the inside at all.

Justin93
04-08-2009, 05:17 PM
For the most part it is just a drop in. You do have to fab up a way to make the stock sway bar fit, and you have to be creative for the brake lines (I just used big zip ties).

I have heard that some people do not have enough clearance in the tunnel for the torque arm, but mine went in without an issue.

spohn makes a conversion kit now with the right ubolts to there is no more guess work or fabing needed.

Bottesini
04-08-2009, 06:43 PM
spohn makes a conversion kit now with the right ubolts to there is no more guess work or fabing needed.

A few places I think make them. Honestly, it is not much work to make it fit. Once I get some free time I will take some pics and do a write up. Just been to busy/lazy. I found the hardest part of doing the swap other than dealing with long rusty sway bar bolts was the assembly, and that was not to hard, and only took about an hour or two (cleaning took up most of the time).

SVG210
04-08-2009, 07:10 PM
okay, thank you guys, now I cant decide what to get first.

Option 1: LS6 Intake, TSP LT's 1 7/8, and ORY

or

Option 2: 9'' with a set of Adj LCA PHB

ohh the perill :(

shady milkman
04-08-2009, 08:21 PM
option 1 for sure..you dont need the 9 yet...but i would do it after option 1

SVG210
04-09-2009, 04:42 PM
Thanks, dont meant to Hijack, but... It looks like I wont be pulling the trigge on option one till next week. My pay check was weak :(