why is a stall good?

[mr_r0bert0]

I understand what it is, but why is it so great? What does it do to make my automatic that much better. Are there any disadvantages? Also, what kind should I buy? And what size?

[richard head]

It keeps your engine running in the powerband, eliminating dead spots such as after shifting or during launch by working as a torque multiplier.

[67CamaroRSSS]

Advantage: With the proper stall (rpm wise) it'll put the engine right in the power band right now. Much better acceleration off the line = lots 'o fun to drive.

Disadvantage: Until it hits lockup (40mph on my car) it'll rev like crazy (in my case 3,000rpm 1st to 2nd to 3rd to OD = 3,xxx rpm to lockup = 1500rpm) during normal driving. This lowers you mpg. Your mileage will be determined by how often you put your foot into the loud pedal.

[00z28bubba]

because it lets you safely stall the rpms up to specs selected. most suggest 3k to 3400 for bolt on cars any more than bolt ons are usually recommended with higher stall speeds. to my understanding it lets you leave the line in your power band so instead of waiting for the car to catch up to the pedal at WOT it revs to the stall speed and launches the car starting in your power band. its similar to dropping the clutch on a manual car you can rev to the rpms wanted for the launch.

[mr_r0bert0]

thanks guys... i run at the track at the legal drag racing las vegas motor speedway provides. Do you say a 3000 is a good for street and the strip? and what make?

[67CamaroRSSS]

thanks guys... i run at the track at the legal drag racing las vegas motor speedway provides. Do you say a 3000 is a good for street and the strip? and what make?I have a 3400 Fuddle with a 2.4 STR. Your requirements may be different.

BTW, you should have the tranny looked at and/or gone through. My tranny had only 43,xxx miles on it and it was slightly burned on the sun shell so it was replaced with a stainless steel one (The Beast - stock one is aluminum). While it was appart the friction disks were replaced with Raybestos disks and the valve body was drilled out. Also, I now have a shift kit controlling shifts (torque management was programmed out). You'll want to plumb in a tranny cooler as well.

As you can see you'll need more than just a high stall converter to do this right. Being in the desert (I'm in Phoenix so I know this) makes a tranny cooler even more imperative.

[richard head]

K now here's one for ya'll: How can you tell if your car is stalled already? I'm under the impression that my car has a 2800 or so stall but traction issues keep it form working out right at the strip. It leaves/enters gears very powerfully and, as described above, doesn't lock up all the time. It was even coming unlocked on the highway and allowing rpms to build up higher than they should have. I've tuned for this in HPTuners but I can't decide if the stocker's on its last legs or if someone put a mild stall in it. Mileage is around 17/24 which is pretty bad for even an a4 LS1. Opinions?